Dude that is crazyby yoUmake-3d - Safety & Best Practices
No! the problem is NOT the connectors, it is the heated bed ohms. The resistance is too low on the heated bed. You are pulling too many amps.by yoUmake-3d - Safety & Best Practices
Once removed from the cold environment before printing it will act as a magnet for condensation. This is a really bad idea. Use a 10$ container and a bucket of closet dehumidifier (5$)by yoUmake-3d - Printing
Awesomeby yoUmake-3d - General
Something is really wrong here. Reflash the firmware. you should never have T0 and T1 Reading the same readingby yoUmake-3d - General
Curious how many of you have been able to run a all metal hot end and not have any issues with PLA filament jamming? If you could please provide: -Type of hot end -Did it print without jamming for an extended period Also if you care to share your opinion on why all metal hot ends tend to jam in the first placeby yoUmake-3d - General
This has been ruining my life. I just drilled a hole from the top through the throat and ran PTFE all the way down to the nozzle. Runs smooth as silk now. I am going to go back and troubleshoot this to get the all metal one working. Any luck for you?by yoUmake-3d - General
Okay, The single fan that acts as a radiator should always be on. You can run lines from the main supply to this fan so anytime the power is on it is running. On Ramps you can also locate the 12V Aux power (2 pins you must solder in). As far as the print cooling fans ( usually 2 on each side) these are not always running and should receive information from the board as when to be activated. Useby yoUmake-3d - General
Its give and take. I have never had a big issue with wobble on them however I have had an issue with the straightness of my 8mm rods. Must consider that if this bearing is moving horizontal with respect to gravity then it should not wobble but slide just fine. If you are not satisfied there are 8mm sliders out there made of copper or brass that have graphite inserts that hold much better, howeverby yoUmake-3d - General
I use Cura slicer. I found a 4.5mm retraction at a 80mm/s retraction speed really gives best results with PLA at 200Cby yoUmake-3d - General
Thanks, I will look into it. I was hoping to find a free open source like Cura. I will see if Simplify 3d can offer a trial version. Thanksby yoUmake-3d - General
What is wrong with the MKS BASE at 55$??by yoUmake-3d - General
I am debating between using a RAMPS or a MKS BASE. I am looking to use the diamond extruder and need to know a good slicing program. I can not seem to find the option in cura for multi-extruder/filament. Any help would be great. Thanksby yoUmake-3d - General
Can someone inform me about how the Ramps is flawed as described in the first post? I can get ramps for 6$ and not had any really bad issues yetby yoUmake-3d - General
Great Thanks, In the next few weeks I want to get into the code a bit. I feel like it would be a simple code to run through. For the Change Filament: 1) Add object to the menu screen 2) connect that object so when activated runs through a sequence on g-code. a. heat up hot end b. move extruder backwards x mm. c. prompt user d. move extruder forwards e. prompt user f. end For bed leveling: 1) Aby yoUmake-3d - General
Hey Everyone! I am trying to find 2 functions in marlin. Do these exist? 1) A change filament setup so when it is selected on the LCD the hot end heats up, then the filament retracts all the way, then a prompt is given to add new material? 2) Bed leveling (non-automated): Looking for where a bed leveling sequence will engage and allow manual adjustment of the heat bed. Such as: selecting a bedby yoUmake-3d - General
You can have another board host the usb connection to the Ramps and communicate with that. I have heard of octoprint and rasperry piby yoUmake-3d - General
//This is for controlling a fan to cool down the stepper drivers 64 //it will turn on when any driver is enabled 65 //and turn off after the set amount of seconds from last driver being disabled again 66 #define CONTROLLERFAN_PIN -1 //Pin used for the fan to cool controller (-1 to disable) 67 #define CONTROLLERFAN_SECS 60 //How many seconds, after all motors were disabled, the fan should runby yoUmake-3d - General
your designing a boat... we design 3d printers. Probably should contact another forum... just keep looking till you find boats.by yoUmake-3d - General
put it in a cup of ice water and change thermistor settings till you see it read CLOSE to ZERO!!!by yoUmake-3d - General
I did try a J-head once... but after designing the shields and fan mounts and x-y carriage. I realized I would need to injection mold these parts. AND after the prototype assembly was still disappointed with the low quality of the hot end itself. So this is the long term goal, however, not feasible at the moment.by yoUmake-3d - General
Good point. Right now the highest quality hot end I can get for the money is a 60$ ultimaker hot end... not OEM but the highest quality for the price. This includes the attachments for the x-y carriage and not just the hot end itself. After I get this together, and it prints good quality parts I am going to start the long design process of developing my own x-y carriage and seeing what hot endby yoUmake-3d - General
If you want to make COOL looking organic designs go with Rhrinocerous with T-splines addon. If you want to make engineering designs go with Pro-E or Creo or Solidworksby yoUmake-3d - General
I am a mechanical engineer and use ProEngineer ( Now Creo) ... some say solid works is better.by yoUmake-3d - General
I have run into this issue before. There can be a few causes all of which can be fixed. So you are getting close to the set temperature so nothing appears to be really bad. This is good. The cause is without a doubt that, your hot end is outputting more energy to the surroundings than the input energy once you get to 220C. To fix this you need to do one or both of the following: 1) Decrease the aby yoUmake-3d - General
I have an all acrylic printer down to 450$ cost. So far, it looks commercial. CNC Acrylic cut frame, X-Y core, with LED and all that stuff. This issue with the hot end will probably be changed to accommodate more inexpensive heater resistors.by yoUmake-3d - General
I would use a 12V relay, but my goal is to build the most inexpensive printer I can without sacrificing quality... that being said a 24V power supply that also supports 12V for the ramps will cost me more than a DC-DC step up. However, I will look into that if this does not work.by yoUmake-3d - General
Thanks for all the suggestions. Elmo c - yeah I tried my best to get around to using a 12v but the hot end is an ultimaker knock off and has a 4mm resistor hole. All I can find is the 24v heater that is a m4. Tim- thanks for the vocabulary lesson. Converter not transformer. Yeah I didn't think of the slight difference that the converter may play in the switching. Since it will charge and dischaby yoUmake-3d - General