Je me permets de poser une question sur ce fil, j'ai reçu mes TMC2100, j'en ai soudé deux (comme sur la première page, GND-CFG1 et 4 pin en moins sur la gauche). L'un des deux fonctionne, l'autre ne montre aucune réaction. Vous avez une idée sur comment vérifier si il est mort ou pas ? J'ai moyen confiance dans mes soudures, je vais essayer de les refaire demain ...by lyscanthrope - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Dedicated film scanners are great. I have a Pakon 135+ and I am totally happy with it scanning my 35mm. The color correction of the kodak software is fantastic. But well, it is getting older and older. Its age in itself is not a problem ... the real problem is the spare parts that are no longer available and they are getting scarce. Currently there are no other scanner that scan as fast as the pby lyscanthrope - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Hello I was having an idea yesterday and I am still in the stage of "is it worth it ?" so I wanted to talk about it. I want to build (one day when I'll found some time ...) a film scanner (as I shoot film). Ok ... well ....that said, there are a lot of option to do it. Usual design moves the film in front of the sensor (be it image or line) so I was heading toward that kind of design, but coulby lyscanthrope - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Des nouvelles du projet ?by lyscanthrope - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
I have a smartrapcore (wood version). I have heard really good things about the aluminium version. The same I would recommande going with the kit because, that way you will learn (the hard way ). Well all in all, it depends on what you want to do : print ? learn and print ? My opinion would be that going reprap is the second path ...learn print improve and so on. Then the kit is most advised (by lyscanthrope - General
Hello Il s'agit plutot d'un EE-SPY401 non ? Tu en es content ? J'ai l'impression qu'on ne peut pas régler la distance de mesure ?by lyscanthrope - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
I would say that the currentg only goes throug all when the current have somewhere to run. If there is no potential difference, there will be no current coming trough the hotend. What software do you use for the design of your sketch ?by lyscanthrope - General
Well I think I wasn't clear (withou sketch it sin't easy) Please see on the picture what I was speaking about : The dark red foil should be in contact with the tip when the probe is in position. I hope it is clearer. A solution with a spring may be good too ! Sorry I read your post too fast ! The idea was just to have the probe easily detacheable from the printer (and not having to solder anyby lyscanthrope - General
I really like the design for the hotend. I'm not sure that It'll be really usefull for the Xmin/Ymin but ...why not. I guess people d'ont really like having circuit open in their printer Wouldn't it be possible to have a second thin strip running parallel to the bottom of the printed part ? Positionned so that the tip is touching it. The idea would be that when the hotend approach the bed, it cby lyscanthrope - General
Ho ! Ok! I see now! Similar to that one ! Very clever... I like itby lyscanthrope - Smart_Rap
There is this one too : I think the aluminum can (or even a kitchen foil) could be usefull. The only think I'll be carefull is that for can, the paint could be non-conductive. As a first try, I would better suggest to go for aluminium foil (from the kitchen)by lyscanthrope - General
Thanks for the files! I don't see how you make the rod drop when starting probing?by lyscanthrope - Smart_Rap
What we want to avoid is that the 5v is directly connected to the 0v of the ramps. The problem is that we have -hotend side :heat cartridge and thermistor -bed :the same if heated bed We expect them to already be isolated from the metallic structure (hot end and bed) for them work correctly. The bad point is that we will put the bed(or hot end) to a given potential.... So if there is a problby lyscanthrope - General
@jamesK I agree with you and have problem seeing how it will work coming from above. @Realthor I don't really see how you will manage to have a normaly closed circuit that goes open on contact AND on loose wire ...but I guess I just don't see it oops, I misplaced U1, it should be between the resistor and the phototransistor, that would explain why you had trouble undertsing it Sorry Just somby lyscanthrope - General
Hmmm just a stupid question ... I think I may be mistaken again but ...do you need the spring ? Wouldn't it be possible to use a thin aluminium foil on (attached on the stubs so it get dragged around) connected to the netagive side, then when the probe goes to the ground it stops when touching the foil (contact detected) ?by lyscanthrope - General
I was refereing to this post Well I haven't tested the circuit yet ... It may look a bit "over specified" but I wanted to avoid any issue so I built an isolated circuit for the probingby lyscanthrope - General
interrsteing ! Do you use a microswitch, a hall effect sensor or an optic sensor on top ?by lyscanthrope - Smart_Rap
Quoterealthor Do you guys know of any actual direct nozzle to metallic bed current loop implementation? Am i unlucky or there is hard to find such a thing? Did the schematic that I post a few posts earlier not sufficient ? I'm not sure it is totaly correct but I expect so. Some precisions : - The switch represent the contact with hotend and bed. - The 5V comes from the ramps - The GND from theby lyscanthrope - General
Well.. I was thinking at a typical m3/m4 screw with a flat head. I'm not sure that you need precision length as you will measure it when assembling the probe.by lyscanthrope - General
Thank you for your answersby lyscanthrope - General
sounds interresting ! (Even if I am on a smartrapcore !)by lyscanthrope - Smart_Rap
Oh sorry, I misunderstood the "dragged", I was thinking you will attach it (by any mean) to the hotend and then lift and go. I understand now why you need that pads ....because it will just slide along the hotend. I was wrong about the springs, I misundertood it too You are right that it would be worth going in another thread ! (just be sure to reference it here ! ==> )by lyscanthrope - General
Just wondering why you need the pad and cannot use a longer green spring ? In fact, i would perhaps even use only one spring and put the metal part in the middle of it (so you have a bit of spring on top and on bottom). One main issue I see on the PLA spring is that ...you cannot probe with the bed warm ...and not with the hotend hot. Having the hotend hot would be interrsteing to squeeze filameby lyscanthrope - General
I totaly agree that the hitting of the nozzle with the bed may be troublesome, but isn't it the same problem with the FSR or Renishaw approach ? 5btw a Renishaw for cartseian seems a good idea to me) Regarding what you spoke about, I have see this method a few month ago : The detach by a magnet is pretty neat ^^by lyscanthrope - General
I'm sorry to intrude in the topic .... i'm having another "probeless" that I would like to investigate ...and not sure if it will be a viable solution. I have seen some people doing it and a lot a people that don't like it The idea will be to detect when the hotend tip touch the build plate (I'm currently having an aluminium bed). I think that idea is pretty nice and going down slowly might notby lyscanthrope - General
Hello, I just ordered a plate of aluminium coated with PEI and I'm having a question ... how does the coating behave relatively with the hotend ? If the hotend touch the plate, will it damage the plate ? I am planning to use the hotend in order to "touch" the plate to detect the Z level ....will that damage the plate ? What about PEi conductivity ? best regardsby lyscanthrope - General
J'ai lu choses sympas sur le PEI, y compris sur une plaque alu revetu de PEI (voir ). J'ai bien envie d'essayer !by lyscanthrope - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Je profite de ce petit topic sur la All in one pour faire un retour, j'avais le même problème, que j'ai reglé de la même manière Par contre le ventilo était trop petit en passant sur un 40mm ca va mieux. Mais je me pose une question, j'ai lu ces derniers temps des choses assez intéressants sur l'isolation de tete chauffante et je pense que c'est une bonne idée. j'ai essayé avec un "cotton" d'isby lyscanthrope - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Bonjour Maximeh, La commande M851 dont tu parles est une commande spécifique au firmware de la Smartrapcore (voir les bouts de code que j'ai mis en copie) Sans cette information, je ne pense pas que les gens puissent t'aider beaucoup ... D'après ligne 3547 de marlin_main.cpp #ifdef CUSTOM_M_CODE_SET_Z_PROBE_OFFSET case CUSTOM_M_CODE_SET_Z_PROBE_OFFSET: { float value; if (cby lyscanthrope - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
C'est possible que tu sois en mode "safe homing" et que tu sois en dehors de la zone par hazard ? D'ailleurs ..est-ce que un X=0 et Y=0 tu as quelquechose en dessous de ton capteur qui soit detectable ....sinon ca va être la catastrophe ! Avant de faire un G28 Z0, essaye de faire un G1 X50 Y50 ...et regarde si tu as une chance de faire une mesure de hauteur ...avant de la faireby lyscanthrope - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone