I have been trying to setup Marlin 2 on my modified Ender-3 (Einsy Rambo) and am having some issues with the LCD screen blanking during sensorless homing of the Y axis. The homing competes and the printer responds, but the screen is blank. I didn't have this problem with 1.1.9. Any ideas on why this might be happening? UPDATE: Went back to 1.1.9 and it is doing it now. This is about par forby ElmoC - Firmware - Marlin
The PLA it self maybe "food safe", but is your printing methods food safe? Are all parts of the filament path food safe? If you have expensive fish, I wouldn't risk it. Maybe make a mold of an object and use aquarium safe materials to cast it.by ElmoC - General
I abandoned this three years ago when no one was showing any interest in it. I don't remember what the issue was. And I was using 7408 for the level shifting.by ElmoC - General
QuoteHergonoway @ElmoC Yes the "red piece", the lock up seems easy but, I don't know, it doesn't seems stiff It can be a bit tricky at first (I was trying to put mine in backwards to start with), but I have done several very long print jobs without any problems. I did write to Zesty about replacement blocks and got a reply back that they are sending out replacements ones. Not sure why, but wilby ElmoC - General
QuoteHergonoway @ElmoC are you satisfied with the lock up system ? seems a bit "not durable" I'm currently looking to adapt the mount to my effector and the piezo Are you referring to the part that holds the filament against the drive gear? If so, it feels durable enough. My only concern is how small it is and with no tether, it could be dropped and lost. I haven't check about replacement unby ElmoC - General
QuoteHergonowayGeneral question : does anyone used the piezo mount with a flex3drive or a nimble? I'm currently thinking about leaving the world of long bowden to more direct drive approach. I am running a nimble with the piezo on my delta. Loving it.by ElmoC - General
QuoteHergonoway Hey @DjDemonD, what's your DUET configuration on your delta with the piezo installed ? especially M566, M203, M201 and M906 We've got similar build, maybe I'll find a better tuning to perform fine print. I am using the identical settings for mine that DJDemonD uses with great success. I do have a couple minor differences in my M558 command... M558 P1 X0 Y0 Z0 F300 T3000 H2 Rby ElmoC - General
QuoteDjDemonD As for drilling a hole, get a spur point wood drill bit. Mark the centre of the piezo disc.place the piezo disc with ceramic side upwards, on a disc of blutack which dissipates the heat and stops it spinning around. Press down with the point of the drill bit on the centre mark, it will puncture the upper metal layer, thereby remaining centred. If you place the piezo disc with the cby ElmoC - General
Okay. So it sounds like while the electrical connection gives the best accuracy and repeatable results, but at the cost of being able to print. Doesn't sound like too good of an option. Think I will stick to the piezo and my BuildTac and Zebra Plate for now.by ElmoC - General
Not to hijack the current discussion, but how well can you print directly onto aluminum?by ElmoC - General
QuoteDjDemonD With a micro blow torch/creme brulee maker. 5 seconds heating, takes about 2-3 minutes to cool. Ideal applicator would be a smoothed shank machine screw with just 3mm of thread on the end. I use a long m3 machine screw, the heat slightly taps a thread into the plastic but this doesn't affect how the product works. So are you heating the insert and then pulling it into the part (pby ElmoC - General
QuoteDjDemonD The brass inserts I have are OD 4mm so I can now just heat them and pull them into the module. A pack of 1000 for £10. You have a link to the ones you are using? And how are you heating them?by ElmoC - General
QuoteSuggy I have that version I use for 1 machine, 3.1.0 on 2nd machine and 3.1.1 on the 3rd. Find it easer to keep them all separate and there on 3 different pc's Is there a reason you are keeping previous versions? Why not use the latest on all your machines?by ElmoC - General
QuoteSuggy Must be in a newer version than mine (1.1.0) only got Calculate Volume, Element statistics and Mesh Reduction Yeah. I would say mine is a bit newer. 3.1.1. You just need to upgrade yours is all. The purchase price includes updates (unless that changed from 1.1.0).by ElmoC - General
QuoteSuggy Using S3D will have a look, thanks In S3D, it is under the Mesh menu option. Separate Connected Surfaces.by ElmoC - General
What are your M906, M201, M203, and M566 values you are using?by ElmoC - General
Quotedc42 QuoteDjDemonD The other thing that's very useful is lowering acceleration, motor current and jerk before probing, then restoring it afterwards. Once you have configured recovery time, reducing jerk should have no effect, because jerk is not used in Z probing moves. I wouldn't expect reducing motor current to be necessary either, unless you use low microstepping and the resulting vibratby ElmoC - General
Forgot to post this link.by ElmoC - General
I did talk to him about it, but he didn't seem too enthused about it. His last comment didn't make a lot of sense to me. Sounded almost like he was saying slower acceleration would be good, but then at then end says it wouldn't help.by ElmoC - General
QuoteDjDemonD I was trying to decipher the duet wiki about this. How are you using it? You just use M906 twice. Once as normal with the regular currents. Second with the H1 parameter for the probing currents. M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1200 E600 ; Set motor currents (ma) M906 X500 Y500 Z500 H1 ; Set motor currents for probing These are just made up numbers right now. I don't have the probe on myby ElmoC - General
Quote The other thing that's very useful is lowering acceleration, motor current and jerk before probing, then restoring it afterwards. If you are using RepRap firmware, like Duet, the jerk is not used during probing. Also, the M906 command to set the motor current allows the use of the H parameter to set current during probing so you will only need to adjust the acceleration.by ElmoC - General
QuoteDjDemonD R is recovery time, I believe it waits for the specified time after a move to a probe point before beginning the probe. This cuts down on the effect of mechanical noise which seems more problematic on cartesian machines than deltas. That 0.2s definitely made a difference on my Delta.by ElmoC - General
QuoteHergonoway QuoteElmoC I connected the 4 pin probe connector on the Duet right to the Piezo board. 3.3v to Vin, Gnd to Gnd, AD12 to Signal line. Hi I've just switched to a duet, do you have an updated version of your configuration files since the last time? The config file I posted was for use with the piezo probe. At least I think it was. I was having issues getting it to work consistenby ElmoC - General
I connected the 4 pin probe connector on the Duet right to the Piezo board. 3.3v to Vin, Gnd to Gnd, AD12 to Signal line.by ElmoC - General
Not sure where to go from here. You might try asking DC42 about it. I believe he is also using one of these probes.by ElmoC - General
You might need to readjust that left pot again. Turn it clockwise until the blue led comes on and then keep turning until it goes back off, then turn just a little bit more. Not much. You should be able to get it to flash with just a lite tap from a tool handle against the nozzle. As for the probe reading on the web page, the page is updated at a slow rate compared to what is happening with tby ElmoC - General
Are you seeing the blue LED light when you tap the nozzle?by ElmoC - General
When you say it isn't probing, do you mean it is not seeing the nozzle touch the bed or you start the Auto Delta Calibration (G32) and nothing happens?by ElmoC - General
You sure that Z-150 is correct in the final G1 command? The bed is normally Z=0 with positive values going up. Using a negative value would drive the head into the bed. I posted all my files here I didn't post it in that message, but here are my probe configuration commands ; Z probe and compensation definition M558 P1 X0 Y0 Z0 F120 T3000 H2 R0.2 ; Z probe is a switch and is not used for hby ElmoC - General
You might want to drop the P value in the G31. The lower the value, the quicker the firmware responds to the touch. Just don't make it too small or you will get a lot of false triggers. I run mine at 10 with very little issue. May bump it up a bit if I start seeing false triggers again.by ElmoC - General