If you are calibrating manually this tool takes a little while, but it is absolutely indispensable: Delta Printer Least-Squares Calibration Calculatorby wfcook - Delta Machines
BRILLIANT! Thank you. I should have thought to look at the SeeMeCNC forum. And that calibration wizard looks like it'll help a ton. Thanks again!by wfcook - Delta Machines
I have a calibration issue that has me a bit perplexed. I have adjusted the printer dimensions using the standard iteration procedures such that, in the image below, points C, 1, 3, and 5 are perfect. However, the nozzle is a little bit high at points 2, 4, and 6. At this point I think that the bed itself is flat. Is it possible that I have arrived at a combination of rod length and printer radiuby wfcook - Delta Machines
Is it possible to dye polycarbonate filament? I have dyed nylon before with RIT but that doesn't really work with PC. Is there something that does?by wfcook - Reprappers
Was this ever posted to GitHub?by wfcook - General
QuoteSpodFab wfcook, Your fix looks great, I want to do this with mine. How did you fixed the steel wool to the Dremel? I used the dremel #4486 multipro chuck. I have changed the process ever so slightly. I now season using flaxseed oil by following something close to this process: http://sherylcanter.com/wordpress/2010/01/a-science-based-technique-for-seasoning-cast-iron/ But I am still getby wfcook - Reprappers
Yeah, I do understand that. It's just that I often want to connect without resetting everything, and I have grown pretty dependent on being able to do so.by wfcook - Repetier
QuoteJ-Max Hi, Instead of vegetable oil, you can consider a teflon tubing in the heat break : ++JM Of course this could work also...but only for PLA. Teflon doesn't handle higher temperatures. Also, my experience with those heatbreaks is that the teflon tube doesn't go all the way through the melt zone. Your mileage may vary.by wfcook - Reprappers
I would very much like to still have the option to disable it. I understand not wanting to have a long list of ways to enable it from which the user must choose, but I'd like to be able to connect without the printer resetting itself and a simple enable/disable option ought not to be too confusing. That goes for repetier-server also.by wfcook - Repetier
Well, I definitely have better results with the above polishing method, seasoning with vegetable oil (at 290C for 30 min, cool, then several cycles at 210C), and using Z5 high-temp thermal grease on the upper threads of the heatbreak. Also check your coldend extruder. There are a lot of bad ones out there, including some that are very popular. I have had excellent luck with this one: http://www.by wfcook - Reprappers
Why was the 'reset on connect' option removed in repetier-host 1.5.6? This option is very important to me and I don't see the benefit of removing features. Which way does it now default to? Does it always reset or never reset?by wfcook - Repetier
What coldend extruder design are you using?by wfcook - Reprappers
I couldn't hurt to try the thermal grease at least. Possibly the seasoning procedure, although I think that is less likely to be successful after plastic has been run through it.by wfcook - Reprappers
The chinese knock-off E3D's can be mighty temperamental unless you do some finish machining. For example, here is what a heatbreak typically looks like straight from China: That will clog things up very quickly, particularly with a sticky material like PETG. I do the following (10 minutes): (1) use a dremel to spin some steel wool in the heatbreak (2) use a dremel and pipe cleaner to polishby wfcook - Reprappers
What model of coldend is that? I am intriqued by the binder clip spring mechanism. That printer looks great (as do the prints).by wfcook - CoreXY Machines
I posted this to Slic3r issue #2960 today, but thought it might be of interest to people here. I ran an interesting test this morning which I believe is relevant. I slic3d a rather large and complex thin-wall model with gap fill on in slic3r 1.1.7, 1.2.6, and 1.2.9 using the same settings exported from 1.1.7 in all three. Then I looked at the total extrusion length. The results for 1.75mm filameby wfcook - Slic3r
I just wanted to make sure that he didn't understand you to be implying that all he would need to go to 3mm would be a heater block assembly and some tubing, since he also needs the heatsink as well. I would have described it as saying the MOUNT for the 3mm and the 1.75mm are identical. Just a difference in semantic interpretation I guess, but to me describing the bodies as identical implies thaby wfcook - General
QuoteElmoC I use the E3Dv6 and the bodies of the 3mm and 1.75mm are the same. Not quite, there are some differences:by wfcook - General
QuoteAndrewBCN In the case of both Core XY and linear delta printers, you are better off with a Bowden arrangement in any case, so printing flexible filaments with these kinds of printers is not recommended, and most people rarely have a need to print with flexible filaments anyways. If you really have a need to print various kg of flexible filament, you are advised to use a separate printer witby wfcook - CoreXY Machines
QuoteAndrewBCN QuoteJamesK There are lots of commercial parts in our repraps - most of us don't make our own hotends and nozzles, and who makes their own steppers? That is true, James (and obvious). But you don't get the manufacturers of hotends, nozzles and steppers posting too often here in this forum either, making any claims about their products. QuoteJamesK I don't see a problem with Mutleby wfcook - General
QuoteMutley3D QuoteAndrewBCN Well, imho there is no perfect extruder that can be used with *any* kind of filament, otherwise we would know about it. Ive not found anything in my testing, 1.75 or 3mm that the Flex3Drive cant handle, common and exotics and flexibles all run fine. (sorry i dont mean this to sound like blatant advertising), but just bringing awareness of this given your post above.by wfcook - General
How are you cooling the hotend in the heated environment? Is the temperature in the chamber low enough that the hotend fan still provides adequate cooling?by wfcook - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Looking at your photo, I think you could use a much larger print bed. XY resolution improves as you get farther from the centre. Compare my photo here: Resolution on a delta, particularly on the edges off the bed, is difficult to describe as getting "better" or "worse", since as you know one rod may bee gaining resolution while the others are losing it. I tend to think that the systemby wfcook - Delta Machines
I recently completed a large delta; here are a few things I learned: (1) 2020 is likely to be too wobbly for the vertical towers. I'm using 2040 and it is borderline. (2) After doing a LOT of analysis of bed size, printer size, rod length, etc. (including using the quite handy kinematics visualization scripts here) I came up with a few dimensional rules of thumb which I am sure will ruffle everyby wfcook - Delta Machines
Quoterealthor We are talking about the normal CoreXY not the DualWire type right? It seems that normal corexy is still superior after all. That's my opinion...admittedly formed without the benefit of actually building and using either type as of yet.by wfcook - CoreXY Machines
QuoteWurstnase Quotewfcook I don't see any purchase in the normal CoreXY setup. It seems to be a 1:1 system, only for the pruposes of calculating stepper moves the axes have been rotated 45 degrees. 45° and 1/sqrt(2) ratio. Motors needs less force but higher speed. Also the forces are good to make the X and Y-axis orthogonal. Isn't this enough? Of course. I wasn't thinking it through all the wby wfcook - CoreXY Machines
I have noticed this also. The first two raft layers are in the same direction and so the second layer doesn't necessarily get proper support. All interface layers are in the same direction as the first raft layer. I reported it as an issue on github.by wfcook - Slic3r
I don't see any purchase in the normal CoreXY setup. It seems to be a 1:1 system, only for the pruposes of calculating stepper moves the axes have been rotated 45 degrees.by wfcook - CoreXY Machines
QuoteLarsK Quotewfcook I am not arguing for arguments' sake; I would genuinely like to know. I would also like to know. For that reason I am waiting for Lerathel to do the steps I lined out and then I am sure our combined knowledge will have this problem solved in no time. Fair enough.,by wfcook - Delta Machines
QuoteLarsK If you read my post above you will see that I present a good number of possible things to investigate. I am not arguing for arguments' sake; I would genuinely like to know. I see one suggestion to get a better fan. How is thermal grease symptom treatment and the fan isn't? What mechanism in the E3D clone he is using is causing the upper heatbreak to get hot if it isn't related to heatby wfcook - Delta Machines