I think my problem was really the piezo was installed upside down - or is that not an issue?by Phytone - General
After using your PCB with the piezo sandwiched between the titan and hotend, I went for the swap into the extruder motor mount. Firstly, installing it 180 degrees does not work, the darn thing kept activating when travelling... So after some reengineering of the assembly on my DIY v-slot installed the right way round and have gained around 40mm more print height... I didn't need to mess with thby Phytone - General
Would probably take a bit of work, but given the prusa unit is bolted together, it looks like you could indent the pieces for a piezo around the top of the hotend? Anyway, great to see this work progress. I've been using a remix of your design for a different piezo and it all works great.by Phytone - General
Despite having a PanelDue, I use it maybe 40% of the time - and that is when I forget to take my tablet (to where the printer is). It is not needed, a good 7 inch tablet works a treat.by Phytone - General
From the exploded diagram of the aero, looks like you will need to be creative in where the piezo mounts. I was going to get the upgrade, but couldn't see how to fit in a piezo.by Phytone - General
1.1 board VR1 250kohm VR2 11.5k ohm Running in analogue mode. I couldn't tune it for digital.... 27mm piezo unit (originally from a DJD thingiverse ebay link)by Phytone - General
So, every time I run a probe, it shows the bed as being under the z0 axis: When I go to print, the nozzle drops below Z0 and does a number on my printbite - hit stop quickly. I've gone to bed center, done the G92 Z0 to define that height as Z=0, probe, print and exactly the same - the nozzle is below Z0. Suggestions?by Phytone - General
Duplicate post - deleted...by Phytone - General
QuoteMoriquendi QuotePhytone Holy crap - these things are great! I think my board has an LED problem (email to Idris on this), but it senses fine... I've replied, I'm happy to replace the board, sorry you've had a problem but very glad it's (mostly) working well for you. Idris Confirm the above, stellar support from Idris in this. I've decided to decline the offer of a replacement, as well,by Phytone - General
I had to enlarge the collar for the head of the heat-sink, for my chinese clone by a mm - but its a great snug fit. Still needs some nuts adding on the collar to keep it nice and tight. The piezo, wasn't drilled centrally, its a little off - but works. Not tried printing yet, but sensing - oh yeh.by Phytone - General
Holy crap - these things are great! I think my board has an LED problem (email to Idris on this), but it senses fine... I mixed DJD titan file for a 27mm version and made the titan offset longer (but its not needed with sunk bolts - so will change) and made it an all in one print. For testing purposes: This is what I got with DC42's sensor AFTER spraying my aluminium heat bed with black matby Phytone - General
QuoteDjDemonD Now to borrow from Phytone's idea above and put a groovemount on it so it can be attached to a titan. Should only add about 10mm to the hotend's length. +1 to that.... I;m tied up insulating the roof before I have chance to tweak. But definately if there is a way to simplify it would be great. It needs about 15mm under the collar to be about right. The one in my picture was 1by Phytone - General
V2, think V5 might work..... Needs dropping down a bit as it binds against my titan mount plate, captive nut holes inserting instead of using 4mm rods.by Phytone - General
QuoteDjDemonD I tried again using the 10x probe and got a bigger spike even from the drilled one, it's quite hard to read this pocketscope. So yes I'd agree 20mm seems feasible, would make for a smaller unit especially for i3 style machines. Be nice to make an e3d titan with Piezo probe unit. I'm mixing a few files to get one for the titan, which will use the 27mm piezo. Will report back in aby Phytone - General
Hi David Yes, I did - but to be honest I really didn't know what I was doing. I've gone back to the configurator and now armed with some understanding on the board, i must admit it makes more sense. It is probably just me, trying to do things too quickly. However, a simple guide showing the config.g and where the various codes match to the individual screens in the configurator would haveby Phytone - Duet
I spent 4 hours trying to get the Endstops to work, as per the original issue. Reloading the firmware fixed it, should have done that sooner. There is a lot more to read and understand for this board, the wiki is great, but its not really plug n play : and to be honest, I didn't think it would be. Whilst it sucked up time, I had a whale of a time... In terms of what could you do... A really sby Phytone - Duet
But seriously, I think DC needs to add a health warning to these boards.... They suck up way too much time in setting up, coming from a RAMPS board....by Phytone - Duet
reloaded firmware, seems OK now.........by Phytone - Duet
I'm going out of my mind trying to setup the X, Y endstop and the Z Probe (DC42 IR probe) on a Prusa I3 "look a like" Set up the IR probe following the instructions, and I get a value of 0.065. So I guess I should have this line: G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z0.065 If I send the command M558 X0 Y0, then G28 Z, the z homes nicely. I've managed to get the X and Y endstops to work individually. After homiby Phytone - Duet
Right, have taken the plunge - order just made....by Phytone - Duet
Thanks, UK based and in the garage. So whilst it has been cooler recently, I can't see it impacting the heat up times that significantly. Over Christmas it was colder and operated fine- just started the past week. Reboots didn't have that much joy either. Screw terminals are all tight. Will check resistance and state of wires.by Phytone - General
I've had my 24v silicone hotbed from Aliexpress for just over 18 months with daily usage. I'm noticing that heat up times are getting longer, the PSU still cranks out 24v on the multimeter. Do these have an operational life, or is there a means to test them to see how efficient they are running and when to replace? Both PSU and Hotbed?by Phytone - General
QuoteMechaBits I've written to excelvan support to see whats goin on, if they aren't into filament anymore the name of manufacturer would be good. Something has to be done. Nice one..by Phytone - General
Likewise, seems crazy that there is no 1.75mm stock. If it needs investors to get it going, would be interested to see potential returns - given savings accounts are next to nothing, may be a means to make the risk worth it.by Phytone - General
David Any idea when the PanelDue will be back in stock? As I've grown accustomed to the RAMPS LCD, if I go down this route , having the right LCD feels right. Yes, I could use a PC, laptop, but psychologically I think i need the LCD....by Phytone - Duet
Thanks for the comments. Will think it over for a couple of weeks.by Phytone - Duet
So I've had my RAMPS for a couple of years, performs good, but was thinking post Christmas- is it time for an upgrade on my homebuilt printer (2020 extruded v-slot). Already use one of DC42 IR sensors. I have a few questions which I hope someone can comment on... 1) Once setup, is the print quality that much better? Anyone got before/after pictures of samples 2) How quickly can a RAMPS printby Phytone - Duet
I use the Titan extruder and have had no problems printing with sainsmart TPU, SINCE getting the new hobbed thread. The original hobbed thread had manufacturing problems . Ptint speeds are the same as PLA or ABS. The only other thing I did was to push the ptfe guide from the idler right to the bearing.by Phytone - Printing
So what are the good alternatives to Excelvan?by Phytone - General