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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Using Z_DUAL_ENDSTOPS for build plate leveling on Z_MAX with probing on Z_MIN - 5 years ago
It turns out in Marlin 2 there is a support for exactly what I need. It's called "Z Steppers Auto-Alignment". It adds the G34 command to align multiple Z steppers using a bed probe. It can be enabled in Configuration_adv.h by uncommenting Z_STEPPER_AUTO_ALIGN. I wasn't able to make it work at this time as it looks like it's still work in progress (there are few opened bug reports about it).by mersadk - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Using Z_DUAL_ENDSTOPS for build plate leveling on Z_MAX with probing on Z_MIN - 5 years ago
QuoteMMcLure I use a low-tech solution for this problem - I have a couple of 3D printed jigs that fit around the Z axis rods. I put those in place, turn the lead screws by hand until the axis hits the jig on each side, pull the jigs out, and presto - the axis is level and ready to go. Currently I'm using similar approach, but I would like to have it automated in the future.by mersadk - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Using Z_DUAL_ENDSTOPS for build plate leveling on Z_MAX with probing on Z_MIN - 5 years ago
QuoteOhmarinus I feel like this is working around the problem. Sorry for not providing an answer, but wouldn't it be a better idea to fix the steppers going out of sync? What could be the cause of that? Binding? An axis leadscrew slipping in relation to the stepper shaft? Maybe my choice of words wasn't the best. It's not problem while printing. But when I remove print surface (flexible) or pokeby mersadk - Firmware - Marlin
Using Z_DUAL_ENDSTOPS for build plate leveling on Z_MAX with probing on Z_MIN - 5 years ago
I've built CoreXY printer with dual Z steppers. I have BLTocuh as my probe on Z MIN. Sometimes Z steppers get "out of sync" and build plate is not parallel any more to XY plane. I would like to add two endstops on Z MAX (bottom of printer) and use them to make build plate parallel with XY plane. Marlin does have Z_DUAL_ENDSTOPS, but from what I can see they must be on homing direction (MIN in myby mersadk - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Simplify3D retraction before first layer - 7 years ago
QuoteFloyd You should be able to edit the start gcode like every other slicer out there. I'm able to edit start code, but as you can see in gcode posted above, it is not part of start code.by mersadk - General
Re: Simplify3D retraction before first layer - 7 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD Don't know if you disable it in s3d but you can comment out that line in the gcode. I can but it is unnecessary post-processing step.by mersadk - General
Simplify3D retraction before first layer - 7 years ago
I've noticed then Simplify3D will do retraction before first layer. This happens even if I disable retraction. Is there a way to disable this? This is a part of GCode that it generated. G28 ; Home all axes ; Starting script end G92 E0 G1 E-2.5000 F1800 G1 Z0.180 F1000 ; layer 1, Z = 0.18by mersadk - General
Re: MKS Gen 1.3 - Run fan only when hotend is working - 9 years ago
QuoteChris-Aus3D I've not used the MKS Gen 1.3 before, but from a quick look at the Wiki page I see it has 4 MOSFET outputs - are you currently using all four? If you've got one of the MOSFETs spare, you should be able to configure it to run your fan. If you're running the Marlin firmware, the behaviour you want (fan on when HotEnd is heated) can be found in the configuration_adv.h file, near thby mersadk - RAMPS Electronics
MKS Gen 1.3 - Run fan only when hotend is working - 9 years ago
I have u Prusa i3 with MKS Gen 1.3 board, which is based on RAMPS board. I would like to make my coldend fan work only when hotend heater is on. Currently fan is connected to 12V pin, and it starts when printer is plugged in. Thanksby mersadk - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Adding supports to model while designing - 9 years ago
I know that Simplify3D has support for custom supports, but it is to pricey. I did what @ekaggrat suggested and it worked pretty well.by mersadk - General
Adding supports to model while designing - 9 years ago
I would like to support only few sections of my model. If I use Slic3r or Cura, they will generate supports for everything (including holes, which i don't want). My idea was to add supports manually in my model, but I can't find any information on how those supports should be designed (should they be connected to model, or at some distance, how large should they be..). Did anyone try this?by mersadk - General
Re: Blobs started to appear on surface of the print - 9 years ago
As it turned out, problem was with clogged nozzle. I managed to cleaned it a bit, but not completely. What is the best way to clean PLA from nozzle?by mersadk - Printing
Blobs started to appear on surface of the print - 9 years ago
I've bought Sunhokey Prusa i3 kit from China, and I am vary happy with it. It was printing great for over a week, but yesterday these blobs started to appear on the surface of the prints. As you can see from first image, I've printed the same part just few days ago, without any problems. I am printing with PLA. Hotend temperature is 205C, bed temperature is 55C, 0.4mm nozzle. I use Slic3r forby mersadk - Printing
Re: My first 3D printer - 9 years ago
I bought this one and I am vary pleased with it.by mersadk - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Help me decide which Prusa i3 to buy - 9 years ago
QuoteSteveRoy Why not scratch build a Prusa i3? You get to choose the quality of components Steve As I said, this would be my first 3d printer. I really don't know what are good components, what are bad components, and which problems can I encounter. Currently I'm closest to buying Wanhao Duplicator I3 because of its steel frame, and later changing components if needed.by mersadk - General
Re: Help me decide which Prusa i3 to buy - 9 years ago
I am from Bosnia and Herzegovina, and there are no local dealers. Also most of the sites doesn't offer free shipping as they do for most of EU countries.by mersadk - General
Help me decide which Prusa i3 to buy - 9 years ago
Hello, I want to buy my first 3D printer. I realy like the idea behind RepRap project so I've decided to buy Prusa i3. I am willing to spend around 500$ (printer + shipping). Currently I have found these options that I like: Sunhokey Prusa i3 Diy Kit (305$ + 195$ shipping = 500$) Acrilic frame, heated bed, bowden extruder, 2KG of fillament (ABS+PLA) Migbot Ultra Prusa i3 Diy Kit (305$ + 210$by mersadk - General