I know, but normally I wasn't to is maximum I think, with 360W for only a heated bed, wierd it failed than. Well, I hope everything is just fine with the MeanWellby Andreas15 - General
I know, but is that only for shorts internally in the PSU or also for shorts in the circuit it is powering?by Andreas15 - General
No, indeed, I was running 2 seperate PSU's, because the Velleman board uses 15V. The other PSU was only running the heated bed. To me it looks like something around the little potentiometer that adjusts the voltage is wrong. Because I can perfectly hook up a 12V fan to the PSU and it will run, but just slower. It's also no fixed value. I've measured from 7.4V to 8.7V... I'm just not sure, becauby Andreas15 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Switching power supplies are power limited. If you turn up the voltage, the maximum current they can supply goes down. DC power = voltage x current. Since power= current^2 x resistance, if you double the voltage (which doubles current) you quadruple the power. When power supplies fail, they usually shut down completely. Since the voltage reads low you may have triggerby Andreas15 - General
It worked perfect for 1 and a half year. So you want to say that the voltage regulation is just crap?by Andreas15 - General
Hi everyone, I modded my Velleman Vertex printer so that I could use it with a heated bed. I soldered my own Power expander and added a 12V 360W PSU that I had laying around. I installed everything and tested with a multimeter and everything was doing fine. The power expander worked and gave a nice 12V to the heated bed when the controller board wanted to. But I'd read here that you can speed upby Andreas15 - General
I see, weren't you running twisted belts on your large kossel before? I thought I saw that in your build log?by Andreas15 - Delta Machines
I know it's not really the topic here, but do you think there is an advantage in using an idler with teeth instead of a smooth one and running the back (twisting) of the belt on it?by Andreas15 - Delta Machines
Cool, would love to go for 16 tooth then! Does anyone know if the corner pieces (2040 ones) from Robotdigg come with idlers for 16 or 20 tooth pulleys?by Andreas15 - Delta Machines
Are you still using the 16 tooth pulley now? Or did you swap them for 20's?by Andreas15 - Delta Machines
QuoteJohn Anderson Neodymium magnets replacing the ball joints should reduce friction. Probably not an original thought but it popped in my mind. That is a good thing, right?by Andreas15 - Delta Machines
That is just a weak argument. You can only lay down a certain amount of filament in a certain amount of time, it's not that a Delta printer suddenly is able to lay down plastic faster. For accelerations and travel speeds, yes indeed, you need strong connections. Saying "they don't have a strong hold" is just talking bullshit. Yes, offcourse, they will have way less hold than fixed connections. Buby Andreas15 - Delta Machines
Please give me any evidence that magnetic connections aren't suitable for the job...by Andreas15 - Delta Machines
Why not go with a bigger magnet? It's not because "everyone" uses 10mm I should, I guess... I chose 220mm because I do not want a giant printer next to my desk. Were will it end? 500mm and 3m height? If I choose for 220mm printbed I probably have a reason for that, no? And where do I say that I worry about pull force?by Andreas15 - Delta Machines
Thanks for your input! I like the idea of an RDD, but they are so expensive. For the belts I want a system that I can easy tension them with a screw. Something like what the Atom 2.0 uses. It has to be clean and rock solid. I have added a picture, it are two pieces that slide over each other and can be regulated by a screw. One screw (that also locks the carriage) locks them down. It is hard toby Andreas15 - Delta Machines
Thank you! The fans are 35x35x7.5 blower fans. The Z-sensor will probably be dc42's IR sensor, altough I'm looking into a nozzle probing system. Mmmh, the extruder is still a hard one. The bowden tube will be very long if I go with a fixed extruder. But I personally don't like the look of a flying extruder. Also, it looks like it makes your carriages way heavier because of the load. What advantby Andreas15 - Delta Machines
Updates! Good flow for the hotend, nozzle close to the effector (1cm under it) and 2 fans for cooling the filament. The fans are not directly pointed at the nozzle, but I feel it doesn't have to. I think it's better to cool the filament just after it is extruded instead of cooling it while it is extruding. But we'll see.by Andreas15 - Delta Machines
Thank you for your valuable input. The reason I placed the hotend higher is so you would see effector tilt less in your prints. But you have a good point.by Andreas15 - Delta Machines
Hey reprappers! I'm currently working on my own Delta design and I want feedback from others to get new insights. My Delta is all based on 3 main aspects: Rigid, Nice and Quality. I have a basic frame now, and I'm willing to hear your reactions on it. What do you think is good, can be better, is waaay off or is super smart! Some information on the design: - Corners are all aluminium, so no prby Andreas15 - Delta Machines
I would surely go with the Duet elecs. So no problem there. For safety, I know I need to ground everything properly, including the frame. Any other things to take into consideration?by Andreas15 - General
I'm a bit in a dilemma with this one. Or going with an AC bed, or enlarging the whole frame to fit the 350W PSU, or finding a smaller PSU :p I don't know if it is worth all the safety requirements to go AC, but it just sucks to make the frame bigger to fit a PSU clean inside it. It really has to be in the base and I'm also not a fan of adding an extra extrusion under it to fit the power supply. Dby Andreas15 - General
dc42, do you use bang-bang or PID with the AC heated bed?by Andreas15 - General
So with my 220mm bed, you do not suggest using mains to power it? I mostly do it because of space issues, and it heats up super fast.by Andreas15 - General
I have an aluminium plate wich is 260mm in diameter, so I think I will still have enough space if I go for a 220mm heater to, no? Or what do you mean? The print space needs to be 220mm, the glass and aluminium plate are bigger. Is it better to go with 200 or 220?by Andreas15 - General
Hey guys! I'm working on a Delta, as I've posted in a previous topic. My delta will have a 220mm circular build surface, and I really want a heated bed. But I've come across a problem. My base is to small to fit a Duet and a power supply that can power a heated bed and all the other parts. So I would have to enlarge the frame like the Atom 2.0 heated bed option does, to make for a larger base,by Andreas15 - General
That is super nice. Is black glass plate a good option for an IR sensor?by Andreas15 - General
Thanks for the input! The inductive is surely a no-go then. When I was looking into IR sensors I read they are very light sensitive, can this cause a problem? The idea of using IR and nozzle is very good I think, I must have to look into this. One thing that I think is a big drawback on nozzle probing with a microswitch, is that the hotend is not completely fixed, it is partially locked but aby Andreas15 - General
Hey reprappers! I'm currently working on a new delta project wich is based on the Atom 2.0. I'm still figuring out what auto bed levelling sensor to use, and I'm getting no further. The Atom itself uses it's nozzle with to probe, wich levers on to a microswitch. I think the benefit of this is that, even if your nozzle expands at certain temps, you always have the perfect distance from nozzle toby Andreas15 - General
Hey guys, I'm helping out a friend with his 3D printer. Everything is connected and the right firmware is uploaded. We wanted to connect the printer to repetier and we instantly got a MAXTEMP ERROR. The bed and the hot end are both reading 120-130°C, while just at room temperature. I was first thinking this was a connection error or a short in the board or thermistor. But when trying to disconnby Andreas15 - RAMPS Electronics