Now im getting 1 degree constant readout.by muntahunta - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I am currently running repetier 0.92.9 and have needed to install a new thermistor in my hotend. The thermistor is an epcos 100k B57540G1104F I have attached it to my hotend and used the repetier config tool to add the custom thermistor table. Once I added the 20 values given here on the wiki Quote// EPCOS 100K Thermistor (B57540G0104F000) // Thermistor lookup table for RepRap Temperature Sensby muntahunta - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
My extruder steps are calibrated, i've tested this over and over. the physical setup is the same one I have now used for well over a year and prior to this was extruding fine. I print at 220-230 depending on the make of filament, Currently using PLA. I am going to wait for the new nozles and throats to arrive and build my setup over again and I will report back.by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
it isn't "coming back" out of the extruder, the filament is trying to be pushed through the extruder but its obviously not going and it eventually bends between the gear and the throat, it is then extruded normally but with the bend gets sent outside the extruder. Which is the reason I am thinking something is wrong with the throat as it is not fixed by replacing the nozzle or the filament.by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
I have tried 3 different filaments, all different colors to make sure, The idler and teeth are fine, I've had it all to bits and back together. I have my filament stored above my printer which then goes straight through a hole in the top of my enclosure and then into the extruder, no bending. I am using an MK8 extruder. The motor is definitely rotating, its just skipping steps. Last night I manby muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
The teeth are fine, i've had it in peices and back together, same problem. I've now turned down the voltage of the driver to where it should be and put my desktop fan over the board to make sure the driver isn't overheating, i'm still getting the same problem.by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
OK, yet another problem. somehow during my last print my filament was bent out of the extruder and ravelled itself around into a knot. Once I cut the filament out the extruder started randomly skipping steps, at first I thought it would be due to a clogged nozzle so I took out the nozzle and replaced it with a new one while I cleaned out the blockage. 3 Nozzles later and the extruder is still skby muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
OK, I understand that a printed object at 2.0 is not going to fit into a hole of 2.0. But When I print things at 1.00 extrusion multiplier (with the nozzle diameter set to 3mm, which is not the nozzle I have returned to) and the extruder steps are calibrated properly, I have a model that has 5 different holes and a peg inside, each increasing the distance of the peg from the hole by 0.1mm from 0.by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
Basically I was provided this start code by a user on another forum. The reason I am trying a 0.2mm nozzle is because I was also suggested by someone else. Another post in this forum describes my problems with my printer extruding WAY too much filament making my 1mm walls 1.8mm (which i believe you have found), so I have tried everything to try and fix it, a 0.2mm nozzle was the next thing to tryby muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
OK, so i've left the extruder steps the way they were... changed my settings in the slicer so that it is now using a 0.2mm nozzle and set my layer height to 0.16mm (80% of the nozzle thickness) Now all i'm getting is my extruder skipping steps. It pushes the filament out during the printers start code: M201 X1000 Y1000 E600 M92 E161.3 G28 G92 E0.0 G1 X8.0 F2000 G1 Y60.0 E4.0 F1000.0 G1 Y100.0 E8by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
I ordered a 0.2mm nozzle to test a few things out. I switched over the nozzle (down from 0.3) and obviously the extruder can't push as much filament through the nozzle as it could. My problem is that now my extruder is still trying to push as much filament through at the same speed... changing the steps per mm would change the amount of filament that is trying to go through, but the problem liesby muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
but you said that once you changed down to 1mm, it came out at 1.2 which you were after, but at 1.2 it was coming out at 1.6. If that were true, then having the shell thickness at 1.2 would have worked fine.by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
my shell thickness is set to 1mm and the top/bottom is 1mm, It should be working fine by my calculations. but maybe my calculations are wrong haha.by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
As an example I was printing a 20mm cube with a 1mm wall all the way around. The model was fine and its fairly hard to mess up such a simple model. I also tested on a 0.4mm thing wall in a square. I know that Xmm part wont into Xmm slot, but the problem I am having is that Xmm part isnt printing at the same wall thickness as it should. If I print a 1mm wall thickness, its coming out at 1.8mm unby muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
Managed to get it to print by reducing the amount of filament extruded to 36% but this is making the parts very fragile... Is there another way to fix the walls being too thick?by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
yeah, thats how i've calibrated it. 1.75mm, mark 100mm from the top of the motor, extrude 100mm then measure how much the mark is off. Its calibrated. But in order for me to get the correct wall thickness (1mm for the 20mm square calibration cube (or 0.4mm for the thin wall calibration)) I have to set my extrusion multiplier at 0.36by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
This has had my head battered. I got the walls down to the perfect amount, but it required me to adjust the extrusion multiplier to 0.36. I have calibrated my extruder so that when i click 100mm extrusion, it extrudes 100mm so why do I need to set the extrusion multiplier so low so that I can get the correct size walls?by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
Just printed a calibration cube and stopped half way, the cube walls are supposed to be 1mm thick, mine are 1.8mm thick.by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
I've got a heated bed, the blue tape is very securely attached, the heated bed is at 50 degrees and i've tried to so close to the bed that the extruder couldnt push filament out.by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
For a long time now i've had trouble printing anything that is supposed to fit together or be printed together. I've never figured out why until I heard about negative space tolerance. Now my printers x, y and z axis are all calibrated correctly, as is the extruder, so how do I change negative space? I've tried many slicers, Cura being my main slicer for over the past year, but I have skeinforgby muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
I have plans to build a new 3D Printer based on an i3 and i'm struggling to find smooth rods. My local hardware store does threaded m8 rods but no smooth rods and I'm wanting to make a bigger machine so want M10 threaded rods, M5 threaded rods, and Ø12 smooth rods preferably 1 meter long so I can cut the correct sizes myself. I've tried the internet but for what i'm looking for i'd have to spenby muntahunta - General
its brand new, it's never failed me before.by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
My printers been printing fairly well for a while now, but all of a sudden it has started doing this on the bottom layer. The bed is level, I could probably lower the nozzle slightly for the first layer but so far that hasnt helped and i've never had addhesion problems with the tape before. Images attachedby muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
i've managed to get it running, im printing from SD so I need the screen, but the screen wasn't getting power from the 12v, but it does from USB. Its a fix for now but will get new for spares.by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
I got it running again, and now it isnt powering on at all. no lights, no nothingby muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
OK, yes, this isn't exactly a normal problem, but it is very strange. A metal key was on my ramps board (my board is attached to my printer enclosure on the outside so I have no idea how this key got there. It was sitting next to the wires connecting the LCD screen. The printer was running fine. I carefully removed the key as I didn't really want it to be there and now my LCD screen is white andby muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
OK, all this time and i'm still getting this problem. I've tried changing firmware, changing the USB cable taking the printer down and rebuilding it, tried printing from the SD card but it just beeps at me and does nothing. Nothing is fixing this problem and it is basically restricting my print times to 2-4 hours, and even then it could be just 10 mins. Has anyone got any idea how I could fix itby muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
OK, newest update, i'll put everytrhing that has happened so far. I have changed the ramps board to my backup board. I have changed the mega board to a brand new board. I have added fresh firmware from repetier with mostly default settings (to see wether it was programming) I have swapped stepper drivers over to see if a working driver would work, it didnt. I swapped wires on the board with a diby muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
I've now swapped both to my spare ramps board and to a new mega board and i'm still getting this problem.by muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants
im assuming this is the part i need to edit: Quote#define ORIG_E0_STEP_PIN 26 #define ORIG_E0_DIR_PIN 28 #define ORIG_E0_ENABLE_PIN 24 #define ORIG_E1_STEP_PIN 36 #define ORIG_E1_DIR_PIN 34 #define ORIG_E1_ENABLE_PIN 30 but there are 4 wires so why not 4 pins to edit? i've swapped the stepper and the wires to the other extruder port, just trying toby muntahunta - Prusa i3 and variants