Problem solved by swapping out the mega board. Thanks guysby SteveKing84 - General
Thanks, ordered up a mega. Unfortunately won't get it until Friday though.by SteveKing84 - General
If this is a hardware problem would it be Ramps or the Arduino? I need this printer working so I'll overnight one or both of these partsby SteveKing84 - General
I swapped the thermistor for the bed and the hot end on ramps and the thermistor works fine. But the hot end always reads 244/245C...by SteveKing84 - General
My hot end just all of a sudden started reading 244C at room temperature. I thought to myself, gee my thermistor must be going bad so I swapped it out and it is still reading 244C. Anybody have a clue what I should be checking? It was working before but when I started my printer today it just showed up like this. I haven't attempted to print or heat the nozzle because I imagine I'd have to seby SteveKing84 - General
Result from printing same as nozzle. Don't mind all the warping, I just peeled it off the hot bed. I feel as though I should be able to get a better print though. Perhaps increasing first layer temp?by SteveKing84 - Printing
At some point I did. I still have small lines present, but it's between the extrusion and no longer overlapping. I can give it a go with using exactly the nozzle width and report back now that my extrusion multiplier is back where it should be.by SteveKing84 - Printing
SOLVED: Well, this is embarrassing but it turns out my extrusion multiplier wandered off. I want to thank everyone for giving me a hand, I really appreciate everyone's input.by SteveKing84 - Printing
So I figured out exactly what the problem is...but I don't have a solution. Perhaps this new info will help. Below I have two photos of the same piece of plastic that I killed the print on, the first photo is the bed side and the second photo is the top side. It appears that I am printing over top of the successive layer and the "thin" or "stretched" lines is what "spills over" onto the bed.by SteveKing84 - Printing
Correct it's PLA. I guess I'll play around with the extrusion width instead of keeping it auto. I'll be sure to report back so hopefully anyone in the future with the same problem can get it fixed.by SteveKing84 - Printing
But, if that's the case then I wouldn't be getting a true layer height that I am specifying the printer to push out.by SteveKing84 - Printing
For reference here is another print that I sourced before owning a printer myself. It was printed with the same 0.8mm nozzle and layer height. The light blue looks much better than what I am printing. Note, the light blue is glossy because it was obviously printed on glass but I can't duplicate the quality on glass either. There certainly is something wrong with my settings... just can't figuby SteveKing84 - Printing
I'm printing on an aluminum bed (still had problem on glass though), using Hatchbox (brand doesn't seem to make diff), bed temp 70, nozzle 185, when using my 0.8mm nozzle my g-code reads as is below. First layer is put down at 20mm/s. I should also mention that when I measure the thickness of my skirt it is generally +/- 0.03 of my first layer thickness. ; external perimeters extrusion width =by SteveKing84 - Printing
Forgot to mention, the second and third layers seem fine. But of course, while it's printing the first layer I don't see all those line on the top side of the first layer - it only happen on the bed side of the first layer.by SteveKing84 - Printing
I have not done calibration that way. I have used the _40x10.stl and directions found here: and my extrusion multiplier is spot on.by SteveKing84 - Printing
I tried playing with my jerk and acceleration settings. My default xy jerk is 10, and default xy acceleration is 3000. I 3D modeled a one layer thick (Z-axis) stairstep so I could judge if playing with my acceleration and jerk settings would change the look. I ran four tests 1) J=10 A=3000 2) J=50 A=3000 3) J=10 A=500 4) J=10 A=6000 I found absolutely no difference in the prints. Itby SteveKing84 - Printing
Can anyone tell me how I can fix the the problem in the photo below? I've had this problem forever. I have recently upgraded to a volcano and have been playing around with larger nozzles, and now the problem is just much more pronounced.by SteveKing84 - Printing
Hey thanks! Just found "G4 PXXXX" where X is milliseconds to pause. I'll toss this into my gcode when I print.by SteveKing84 - Firmware - Marlin
I just added a 4mm aluminum sheet to my printbed. I'd like to extend the time the printer sits at target bed temperature before it turns on the hotend. Where in my firmware can I change this?by SteveKing84 - Firmware - Marlin
I'm following the RepRap 101 video on setting the extrustion multiplier in slic3r. But when measuring should I be comparing my measurements to "external perimeter extrusion width" or "perimeters extrusion width"? They are two different values in my gcode, being 0.40 and 0.48mm respectively. video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEAby SteveKing84 - Printing
Well I know the second photo is too high of a nozzle, the first one should be right in the ballpark. I'll tighten up some pulleys and play around with first layer extrusion.by SteveKing84 - Printing
Thanks for the help guys. Yes I am using PLA. I'll check my slic3r settings a little closer to see if I missed something on extrustion for first layer. My printer actually does have a X-axis tightener, I just checked the belt and it could be tighter, seems that's loosened over time but I still wasn't able to get good prints when it was tight. The comment about the first layer peeling away - Nby SteveKing84 - Printing
For the life of me I can't get a decent first layer. I'm not quite sure what I am doing wrong. I've printed litterally hundreds of models and everything I print that has a somewhat decent sized bottom surface comes out real crappy. I'm printing with a Wilson TS with auto leveling, using Slic3r. Two photos below show the problems I'm having. The smaller photo is pretty much the best I can accby SteveKing84 - Printing
Wow, I don't know how I overlooked that. Thanks!by SteveKing84 - Slic3r
I'm pretty new to using support material, most things I print don't require it. I'm trying to print something that has a 90* cantilever overhang, but when I use the default support settings and I remove the support material the print quality is fairly poor. It seems as though slicer is leaving space between the support material and the structure itself. How do I close this gap? Thanks!by SteveKing84 - Slic3r
This might belong somewhere else, but I couldn't think of a good place to post this question... I have a case designed using Sketchup and what I want to do is insert a design into the first layer. I don't want a layer differential between the design and the case bottom, everything in one layer on the bottom. So for instance the case is rectangular, for the first layer I want it to print the periby SteveKing84 - General