I have had my I3 up and running on latest Marlin for some time now. It works great, but I just finished building a second printing using an MKS SBASE and noticed that even though both printers have the exact same Power Supply and Hot end setup the printer running marlin takes twice as long to heat up the hot end. I have completed PID tuning on both, it seems as though the MAX amount of power theby Brotherbrown831 - Firmware - Marlin
i just added a simple bit of Gcode to the startup script in my slicer. Very simple to do. The bed takes about the same time to heat up, is uses a larger heater pcb, i would say any larger than this and I would recommend a 120v heater on a relay. here is my start Gcode: G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;moveby Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
I replaced the aluminum plate and the heater PCB. I bought this combo from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FYDEOEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It was a very simple upgrade, the new Y-axis give enough range of movement to not only print on the entire 300cm of bed but also enough to go beyond 300cm to the nozzle cleaner I installed on the back of the bed.by Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
Im in the process of swapping out my Y-Axis and installing a 200x300 print bed now. I was able to raise my Z axis to 8.5 inches without interference and my new Y axis is 12.4 inches of printable space.by Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
Finished! I had to rework the mount. Msaeger wqas right, it needs to be two pieces, the stepper fits snuggly into the angeled box and everything is very modular and easily adaptable. I used this extruder: and this flexible blower hose: Here you can see the 90 degree bracket that bolts to the rear of the stepper The trigger for the X endtop OPTO is built into the mount for the proximity sensby Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
Last night I started my project to roll the X-axis and move the extruder stepper to directly above the bearing surfaces. Everything seems to be lining up and working so far. I wasnt able to get it completely back together, I will finish this evening, but at first glance I have really improved the amount of Z travel.by Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
I am planning to do the Y-axis upgrade next month and swap to a 200 x 300 build plate while i'm at it. There a sale going for fathers day on OpenBuilds so I might order my new rail this week. As for separating the mount and the extruder, most secure mounting point it the stepper motor face, if the mount attached to say the back of the stepper using a 90 degree bracket then the extruder could moby Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
Here is the new mount/extruder: I cant think of a good way to print this. other than rotated 90 degrees on its side with support is the only way. I don't want to make it two pieces as I thing the joint will need to be as strong as possible and I want to keep the platform mount thin to maintain as much Z height as possible.by Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
The main FT 2020 is so big I thought I would start a thread dedicated to a more advanced level of mods and upgrades, specifically those created by Sunny Lowe. I am tweaking the X-axis now and will be adding the Y-axis with a 200 x 300mm bed next. I have enjoyed my FT 2020 for some time now, it is constantly being upgraded as I can not stop tinkering with it. One of my most recent upgrades was tby Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
HAHA, yes I meant ABL not ABS.. Here is my start G-code: G28 ; home all axes G29; ABL G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle I am not sure where the extra ABL command is coming from. Right now if I start a job from my SD reader it does this; 1, ABL <-----this is what I want to remove. 2, Heats Bed 3. ABL 4.Start Jobby Brotherbrown831 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
My Prusa I3 is working fine with a servo driven plunger Z-end stop opto switch. My but I have two annoying issues I would like to correct but I am unsure where to find these settings in marlin. Issue #1 - When I enabled Auto Bed Leveling I added a G29 to my startup G-code, the printer runs the the ABS routine as soon as I launch the job through the SD card. and then the ABS routine runs again asby Brotherbrown831 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Turns out this is the very reason for the servo disarm delay. I added 300 milliseconds to the delay and my problem is gone. Its working perfectly..by Brotherbrown831 - General
I am attempting to swap over to an opto switch plunger design for my auto bed level. I have the code setup and it works with one major issue. When the servo is in the 'up" position the Z-min endstop is obviously triggered. No big deal, when I run a G28 or G29 the servo drops the plunger and the Z axis moves until the plunger trips the opto switch. Here is my issue. when I issue a G28 the servo mby Brotherbrown831 - General
We are in a very mild time of the year here in the midwest of the USA, daytime temps are mid 70's and nights are high 50's. It will be another month or so until I see how well the enclosure retains its warth when the temps drop. If needed I will hack up a hair dryer and wire it to a thermal switch to help maintain the temps. So far I am very happy with the results. One word of caution, if you arby Brotherbrown831 - General
(I tried to make this thread last week and couldn't get it right. I think I got it this time) For many reasons I choose to keep my printer in the garage. To protect the print and control the temperature during the winter months I decided to build an enclosure. I am very new to the 3d printing world. I built my first 3D printer about 2 months ago. I absolutely love my printer and am very happy wby Brotherbrown831 - General
Here is a quick look at some of the recent things I have done to my FT 2020 printer. The enclosure has been really great, keeps the printer protected and clean from other work in the garage and help control the temperature better. Still have to clean up the wiring a bit and mount the LCD but I am happy with it.by Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
For many reasons I choose to keep my printer in the garage. To protect the print and control the temperature during the winter months I decided to build an enclosure. I am very new to the 3d printing world. I built my first 3d about 2 months ago. I absolutely love my printer and am very happy with the results of my enclosure project. This was my starting point. I had an old craftsman roller boxby Brotherbrown831 - General
after many forums post involving similar behavior convinced me I was driving the steppers to quickly, I did a quick comparison of my current config.h vs one saved from last week.. I have no idea how this value was changed but my max Z speed was from 2 to 6. Once I corrected this the noise stopped.by Brotherbrown831 - Mechanics
Hi everyone, my printer (Folgertech 2020 i3 - marlin 1.0.2) has been working great for a while but all of a sudden my Z steppers have started randomly slowing down to a crawl and making an awful vibration/buzz noise in the middle of its travel. Its a low frequency noise and shakes the entire printer. I disconnected the Z rods from the motors and the noise is definitely from within the stepper(s).by Brotherbrown831 - Mechanics
Can I ask how you know its not self adjusting?by Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
Does G28 goto X/Y home first and then move to the center before homeing Z? or does it home Z in the corner?by Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
Your configs look correct to me.. I have virtually identical setting and am also having issues with ABL on my FT 2020 I3... What behavior are you getting? Mine takes one measurement and then instantly completes the remaining 3 measurements with that value.by Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
Animoose, I would love to see your comparison prints for the E3D-lite vs the stock hotend from Folgertech.by Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
I ended up downloading a fresh version of marlin and then just changing the values on config.h to match the folger tech values. Thanks for the tip about eeprom. One of the big differences between the default values and the folger tech values was in the acceleration and speed settings. The folger tech values are very small compared to the defaults.by Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
I searched but was unable to find my question. I have a RepRap discount full graphics display I would like to add but the version of Marlin that folgertech supplies does not have the option for that LCD in the config.h file. In order to use this panel am I going to have to use a fresh verion of Marlin from Github and transpose all the Folgertech settings into it or is it as simple as me adding thby Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
Great tip! that was exactly what I was looking for. They are both defined as type 6. I ordered these as a replacement: Amazon - 100K ohm NTC Now I have to figure out what type number to put in when they arrive.by Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello all! My brand new FolgerTech 2020 I3 printed one nearly perfice 1cm cube today before the thermristor in the extruder promptly died. It will be monday before I can get a new one and I hate to loose a whole weekend of calibrating and tinkering. Can I steal the thermristor from the heated bed and put it in the extruder? I can at least play with some PLA without the heated bed. Can anyone helby Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
Extremely impressed. I ordered my kit on sunday, it arrived at my house on wednesday, I built it in two evenings and was able to print a 1cm calibration cube using 100% stock settings downloaded from folgertech on my first print. It's not perfect but a lot better than I was expecting. For the money this kit is great!!! Now the bad news, on my seconds print the job shutdown mid print and n ow I'mby Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
I just got back from the hardware store and m5x10mm is a perfect fit. Folger tech must have changed suplliers for sk8 and not noticed the height difference.by Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello.. new member here, just got my kit in the mail and started working on building the base, however there seems to be an issue with using M5x8mm bolts to hold down the SK8. The SK8 is 6.53mm thick so there is not enough thread left to get a good bite on the T-nut. Has anyone else seen this issue? Did i just get really thick SK8's?by Brotherbrown831 - Prusa i3 and variants