OK figured it out and you aren't going to believe it. At least I didn't at first. So the printer was printing a fairly large rocket nose cone when it stopped working (156mm round by 470 mm high) I modified my I3 specifically to be able to print fairly large ones like that. After it flaked out everything was basically half size in all axes. If I tried to print that same nosecone it came in aroby Helihead - Prusa i3 and variants
I have swapped boards a couple of times since I built the printer and always just changed the values in Marlin before I uploaded the code to the board. I should go read to make sure things are the way they should be though for sure. You are right. The settings may not be right for some reason.by Helihead - Prusa i3 and variants
Homebuilt I3 that has been running fine with lots of printing for the past two years. Last week it started printing everything a little over half size. I figured the program got corrupted so I resent and retested. Same thing. Put a new Mega and Ramps board plus all new drivers. Took time to carefully calibrate the current, retested and same thing. Tried Cura 2.6.2, Slicr 1.33.8 and reby Helihead - Prusa i3 and variants
It finally works. It was about half the head and about half the software apparently. After switching to the new and better hotends I was getting much further but could still not get it to complete 2-4 hour prints. I had been using Cura and was beginning to wish for more control so I loaded up Slicer. Everything I printed immediately looked better and I have completed a 3 hour print and a 4 hoby Helihead - Printing
So the issue is not fixed but it's better. I tried to polish the hotends I had. Apparently I have no patience with little things and after quickly losing my will to live, I decided to just buy better ones. I read a bunch of reviews and purchased these: They seemed to be a good start for a decent price and I figured if I needed to polish then at least I would be much closer to done with thesby Helihead - Printing
I only printed via USB a couple of times when I first built my printer and only use SD card now so that's not it. I read a few comments where people had similar issues to what you did so that's why I stopped doing it early on.by Helihead - Printing
So I was a dummy at first and thought the barrel was already lined because my others had been. I was not sticking the tubing down very far and I was having all kinds of jam issues. Then I started sticking the tubing way down and I got really good success with most objects. I just printed out a complete set of replacement parts for my I3 yesterday and tonight and had zero jams or misprints. Buby Helihead - Printing
No it's a knockoff but I polished it somewhat with a dremel. I can polish more if you think that will help. I can't afford an original right now so I need to make this one work if possible. It makes nice prints so long as you aren't after anything too big. Of course I built one with a 270x200 bed planning to do larger stuff.by Helihead - Printing
So that was my thought too but I can't be sure. I am running a bowden setup and the motor doesn't really get hot at any rate. I have installed a E3D V6 head and it does have the fan running that came with it. So would you think cooler temps and running faster would help? Maybe I am doing the wrong thing by slowing it down and running a 210+ temp. It has been pretty hot around here lately comby Helihead - Printing
I built a prusa I3 and it works great with PLA on smaller objects. When I try to print past maybe 45 minutes or an hour it looks great and then just stops extruding. The melted filament stops coming out of the nozzle and the extruder starts clicking. I have tride temps from 190 to 225 in 5 degree increments and it does it across the board. I have slowed it way down to 40 and sped it up as farby Helihead - Printing
You guys are great. julianh72 answered my next question first and J-Max answered the original questions. Guess what? I am using eSun PLA so pretty darn accurate on that suggestion. OK so for now I will order some better grade PLA but I will keep running what I have. At the end of every job I will pull out the filament before it cools down, cut off the more brittle end and reprime when I starby Helihead - General
I just built a prusa I3. I couldn't get the original head to feed correctly so I installed a V6 with bowden and it works fine EXCEPT... After a successful print the machine cools down and when I try another print it won't extrude. I started pulling the filament out to see why it would not feed and when I take the filament out and check the nozzle it is always jammed up and there is usually a pby Helihead - General