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Re: Sluggish forum. - 6 years ago

> It is so slow, I open another browser while I wait. It won't take much of this to see me gone! So, it will solve by its self.

by amigob - General

Re: Bq Prusa i3 Hephestos Extruder & Print - 6 years ago

What is the tick you hear in the movie ? it looks like that the filament is coming out as a fluid, so nozzle is to warm. - Are you sure that the temperature reading of the extrude is correct ? - another thing that you can try, is reduce the temperature for layer 2 and high. start with 200c.

by amigob - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Stepper Motor Clicking fun - 6 years ago

And check if the steppermotor has the same connection order then the PCB connector.

by amigob - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Prusa i3 Rework improvements suggestions - 6 years ago

> If your print at .28 and it takes 4 hours then if you print at .14 it will take 8 hours You are forgetting that your layer height also will be 1/2. so 16 hours

by amigob - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Print not sticking to bed... bluetape - 6 years ago

if you look at the last picture you see that the filament is not squeezed on to the bed. if you didn't change the z offset in the slicer software or change any hardware you need to check if the nozzle hight is still good. Check multiple times, after a new zero. (paper calibration) Don't change any thing between the multiple zeroings, It is possible that the zero sensor doesn't repeat accurate e

by amigob - Printing

Re: Hotend design question - 6 years ago

All the materials used have the properties that are needed. Thermal barrier is from Stainless steel, because it doesn't conduct heat that well. Heat block is from aluminum to get the energy from the heater to the nozzle and an accurate temperature reading. I have a E3D hot and that uses this concept. and it never got blocked. I can pull the filament out of the top when it is warm, and directl

by amigob - General

Re: filament rol inside or outside the heat chamber - 6 years ago

ABS printing goose OK, have some small warping at cornes( don't think this print is easy with ABS). Heatbed 100c Chamber 55c extruder 250c printing ABS in heat chamber The extruder fan is blowing to the front and you see that there is constantly a air flow over the print. So a duct is already designed to get the airflow up from the extruder fan .

by amigob - Reprappers

Printing TPE from gembird3 - 6 years ago

Hi all I have a Prusa steel wit a prindbed of printbite Tried already a lot of things to get the TPE filamant to stick to the headbed first layer extruder temprature at 260c - Printbite cold - Printbite 30c - Printbite 70c - Printbite 110c - Printbite with lac3D cold - Printbite with lac3D 110c ( a little bit more adhesion ) - kapton tape cold - kapton tape 110c - blue tape cold - Raft of A

by amigob - Printing

Re: Print not sticking to bed... bluetape - 6 years ago

if the measurements of the cub are ok, then you are under extruding. That means that your E step calibrations was not correct

by amigob - Printing

Re: Print not sticking to bed... bluetape - 6 years ago

is 190c not to low for first layer ?

by amigob - Printing

Re: New print surface material? - 6 years ago

Bed at 80c still no stick ( not even a improvement ), getting the idea that this TPE filament is not compatible with the matt printbite+. I was wondering if somebody tried to spray 3Dlac on it ? This spray can easly be removed wit soupwater. but Would be nice to no if it will effect the printbite+ after I removed the 3dlac with the soupwater.

by amigob - General

Re: New print surface material? - 6 years ago

My speed is also 20mm/s for the first layer then I speed up to 30mm/s First it looks that it will stick and then after a few rounds it pops of. The measured thickness is 0.25 mm

by amigob - General

Re: New print surface material? - 6 years ago

i have a i2c infrared sensor on the x carrier, and changed repetier to measure from the top before printing I use this low temperature for the bed because that is in the manual from printbite. I will try increasing the temperature

by amigob - General

Re: New print surface material? - 6 years ago

I am trying to print TPE ( gembird3 ) on the printbite+ matt black surface and what ever I do it will not stick, Bed 30c filament first layer 240c rest 230c ( not that this maters because I don't get past the first layer ) default 200% flow for first layer with sli3er ( Pursa edition ) squeezing with -0.05 didn't make it better what is the trick, ABS went perfect.

by amigob - General

Re: Please help me to pick the right electronics package. - 6 years ago

Radds + extension board gives you 8 or 9 separate drivers. you need to use an Arduino Due with it.

by amigob - General

Re: Prints coming out terrible!! - 6 years ago

For the extruder start at step 4

by amigob - Printing

Re: filament rol inside or outside the heat chamber - 6 years ago

Update, I bought 2 * 500W, when I opened the package , I found them small :-) So I thought already that only using convection would be a problem. So installed them in the enclosure, and Only got 5c higher the without, have to say that I didn't have the 4 steppen motors on. It also took way to long to come to 45 degrees. So I really need to ad a fan to force the air through the heater. Think

by amigob - Reprappers

Re: Total newb - few questions - 6 years ago

Repetier gives you the ability to print from any platform ( Web based interface ), but you need to use a Raspberry PI or so to run the Repetier server. The printer firmware is opensource, the Server and host application are not open source. I use Repetier and I like it, the free version works good, and then you have a pro version that have some nice to have features.

by amigob - General

Re: Belt Tensioner , do you recommend ? - 6 years ago

if you have a Prusa type printer. Then there are nice tensioners available. I use the first one until now it works very good

by amigob - General

Re: How do I run an SSR on mains without killing myself? - 6 years ago

In the Netherlands we have the RCD also in older homes, but it doesn't have to be that all groups are going through it. Having the metal parts connected to the Earth is extra protection if the RCD is not for the group the 3D printer is on, and I had ones a fault RCD that tripped only with way higher currents, then it should.

by amigob - General

Re: How do I run an SSR on mains without killing myself? - 6 years ago

RCD "residual current device" is a " earth leakage circuit" ( I think your from the Netherlands because we call it "aard lek schalelaar") To be sure that it is 100% save to touch the printer, you should make sure, that all metal parts that can get in to contact with the 220V wire ( by wear/breakages of the isolation ), are wired to earth ( I don't know if this is the correct word). Then the RC

by amigob - General

Re: "Communication timeout - reset send buffer block" - Repetier-Host V1.6.1 ARGH! - 6 years ago

do you have the "12864 LCD Full Graphic Smart Display Controller" if so you have SD card port , it is on the display as far as I can remember

by amigob - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: "Communication timeout - reset send buffer block" - Repetier-Host V1.6.1 ARGH! - 6 years ago

I would advice to run the Repetier server, and print from there, you can then add jobs via Repetier host or via a web based interface. You can also see the progress, in the host or via web page. With the webserver I didn't see these problems. But they advice to use good quality usb cables. Also it is smart to post Repetier problems in the Repetier forum,

by amigob - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Heated Bed Thermistor reading far too high - 7 years ago

That is 6.8 Kohm , I can't find any 10k thermistor that is 6.8Kohm at 28c. 6.8Kohm is about 35c. At 28c they are about 8.5K to 9Kohm. You can do one thing,, look at the resistance with the multimeter when you heat it up, put the heat on top of a cub of warm water. The resistance should then decrease.

by amigob - General

Re: Heated Bed Thermistor reading far too high - 7 years ago

If the surrounding temperature is warmer the 20c, then there is a possibility that it is a 10k thermistor. That will be a thermistor type 4 in marlin.

by amigob - General

Re: Heated Bed Thermistor reading far too high - 7 years ago

I didn't read careful enough :-) Mhh, so it is 6.8k at 20c, I will check in the code.

by amigob - General

Re: Heated Bed Thermistor reading far too high - 7 years ago

If it reads 200K not connnected at 20c then you could try thermistor type 2 or 52 in marlin. I don't use marlin my self, but in the code these type seem to be for 200k thermistors

by amigob - General

Re: Heated Bed Thermistor reading far too high - 7 years ago

You measured when it was not connected to the board, and temperature around 20c ?

by amigob - General

Re: Heated Bed Thermistor reading far too high - 7 years ago

Do you have a mutimeter, if so measure the resistance of the thermistor, should be around 100k ohm at 20c. What board do you use , Arduino Due ?

by amigob - General

Re: Best Chemical to Clean Hairspray off Glass Bed? - 7 years ago

I don't directly use hair spray but 3DLac spray, and what every I try Glassex window cleaner works the the best, because it will it self not leave any residual. It seem to be the same thing as your Windex.

by amigob - Reprappers