First thing to do is adjust the Z end stop switch or the bed to ensure the switch triggers (home = 0) when the nozzle is still above the bed. The gap needs to be less than any 1st layer thickness you may want to use. The bed leveling systems help calculate what this distance is and try to keep it consistent across the bed.by MCcarman - Printing
Thanks for posting the solution.by MCcarman - Printing
You could do M503 to see what it thinks is there. Otherwise it seems its either a miss configuration or M303 E-1 S90 C8 is not exactly what its getting. Is it getting the "-" as a negative symbol or a dash? Any weird keyboard translation errors ?by MCcarman - General
Sounds like the STL file isn't "meshed" correctly. I can't remember if you can correct it in the slicer. Im proposing that the slicer thinks there is a curved surface that has an infinitely small gap between the two ends instead of a circle. When you model things in CAD you can create things this way. Then when you process it you say " Treat points that are within a very small distance as the saby MCcarman - Printing
Sorry but i don't understand what you are trying to do. Which bits are supposed to be adjustable and which bits fixed. Then what movement are you trying to Lock? Looks a bit like a drill chuck.by MCcarman - General
For the sake of completeness:- Make sure the filament can flow freely into the extruder. No binding of the spool or tangling of the filament on the drum. Also the rout to the extruder is clear and there is no chance of the filament being caught by the bed or carriage. If you get a sharp bend in the filament it will reduce the diameter locally so cause slipping. Check the pressure roller has freeby MCcarman - General
Bed temp seems high. I would try it at 100. There is some evidence of shrinkage on the solid layers and the high temperature will affect this.by MCcarman - Printing
!!!!!!!! Please confirm the bed temperature?by MCcarman - Printing
UV curing glue seems to be the hot item these days. Obviously the syringe needs to be made UV proof. Then have UV light directed at the print. Print on to tape though as your print will get stuck to the bed.by MCcarman - General
I think the answer is yes. The big question is why? The point of the bag is to be flexible so as to adapt its shape for different usages. Whereas most 3D printed objects have a specific shape and are intended to be rigid (or semi rigid). The home 3D printer is relatively simple and usually produces rigid objects. So not really suitable. To use flexible materials for a non rigid object may need thby MCcarman - General
No expert but as nobody else replied:- check, //Manual homing switch locations: // For deltabots this means top and center of the Cartesian print volume. #define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0 #define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0 #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0 //#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 402 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing. Yours may be set to 150.by MCcarman - CoreXY Machines
Would be good if there was a cloud based service although there would still be the physical issues to overcome. The slicing process could be updated to cater for some of these in that you could do non planer portions on the early layers before the rest was built up and became restrictive. In the video its only the last runs that are non planer.by MCcarman - General
Check the 2 Y guide rails are at the same height. Pick one to adjust and adjust one end up or down to match the SLOPE of the other. Idealy they should be square to the Z axis but bed leveling is specificaly related to rail to rail alignment. Sorry I cant provide a good proceedure for adjusting it.by MCcarman - Printing
I have to agree with Jinx. Those temperatures seem way high. Did you check they are real? May have the wrong configuration settings so its reporting much higher than it really is. I assume you are homing after the bed is heated.by MCcarman - General
Had some more thoughts. 24v bed is no better as they are typically 2 x 12v circuits so it doubles the resistance as well as the voltage. If you push the voltage up at the cold start you draw more current at the start and risk the electonics. What you actually want is to increase the current as the bed heats. So im wondering if the best solution is a 24V PSU with one of those step up/down modulesby MCcarman - Tech-Talk
If its a 0.4mm nozzle then your numbers are about right and increasing the multiplier should have affected it. So that leaves a real problem. Material shrinkage could have an effect but on a 20mm cube i wouldn't expect there to be enough time for that to be significant. You say a lot of stuff works on your MK2 so it seems to be machine specific. Grasping at straws - Step size - just wondering ifby MCcarman - Printing
Can you restate your issue please. Set up can be very confusing as there are a lot of variables/options including some that can contradict each other. You highlighted "but G28 MOVES BED UP!!!" as if it is wrong but that is correct for a moving bed. It will move up until it trigers the end stop (or the soft limit). You said "X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:3.00 E:0.00 Count X:0 Y:0 Z:12000 Correct!! (BED MOVES Uby MCcarman - Printing
Sharing some info. Maybe some one can spot some improvements. Theres is often a complaint that beds take a long time to heat up or wont reach 100C. I have a workaround i have used for some years so don't have an issue with this. But over the break i fitted a volt/ameter to my printer and found the results interesting. Big surprise to me was that the current for the total system dropped by over 1by MCcarman - Tech-Talk
Turn off the print cooling fan for the base? Could be that by the time its printed the infill the perimeter is too cold. Should be an option to turn it on for short layer times that will suit for the vase part.by MCcarman - Printing
The OP indicates some setup issues. A bed offset of 1.55mm wont give a good 1st layer so there may be some confusion between bed offset and sensor offset. Since the 1st layer printed OK then the correct bed offset will be around -0.25mm.by MCcarman - Printing
I have seen similar but don't know the cause. I would suggest its an extrusion issue. I don't know which way you are printing but I think you get an under extrusion after a stop or slow print point and the stringy filament does weird things. The diagonal faults are a bit of a clue as we see that where there is nozzle oozing. oozing being the equivalent of under extrusion. No idea why it only doeby MCcarman - Printing
Does seem like the Bltouch is the issue. Im not familiar with these. Check the cables or something are not pulling the sensor at an angle. Do you have Z screws both ends of the X axis rail? If you only have one on the left end then the gantry/rail could sag on the right. If it sags on the right it will think the bed is higher. Did you attach the dial gauge to the gantry/rail and move the hot endby MCcarman - Printing
Check startup Gcode sequence. Make sure you have it wait till temperature before printing. For good reasons the extruder (motor) wont operate until the hot end is hot. It looks like its started the movements but the hot end is not hot enough so the extruder is not running. On a fairly small print like this it just happens that the hot end heats up enough for the extruder to turn on for the 2nd laby MCcarman - Printing
Left hand side looks good but Right hand side worse. So could be a mechanical issue.by MCcarman - Printing
Check the end of the nozzle is square to the bed. Doesn't look like 4 layers as you can see the previous layer ridges at about 5% spacing.by MCcarman - Printing
Layer height? Z steps pre mm wrong? Loose parts?by MCcarman - Printing
Check your PSU specification. The total watts or amps is usually distributed over the different voltage outputs so you can't have it all on one 12v out put. Typically 15amps is the highest on a 12v output. So it could be you are causing the temperature protection on the PSU to activate after some time. If there is more than one 12v output you can combine them. Max current would be drawn during thby MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
Bye the way. Don't run the Bowden as shown in the picture. Don't tie wrap to the cable near the hot end - it creates a horrible bend in the tube and doesn't feed smoothly into the hot end. Not sure how they managed to get the cable deflected that much - i assume they clamped the cable just for the photo but it wont work when you try to level the bed.by MCcarman - Printing
Possibly the Y direction/home settings are wrong in the config.H file. Print area defined the wrong way round. Sounds like its homing in one direction, hitting the end stop, then cant go the way it wants because it thinks that would be beyond the end stop.by MCcarman - Printing