Hey guys, its been a while... I want to try to pressure feature but im on 1.14 and I hear its bug on this version so im looking to flash the last release I guess but since im coming from 1.14 there are LOT of stuff fix or added . I check the change log quickly but my version is so old and lot of stuff do not apply to us I guess... Can anyone give me the big change here ? I dont use a lot of feaby GroupB - Controllers
Had the same thing on my first install of RRF turn out it was the config file. Something in there was wrong for the radds causing reboot What you have to do is first remove a good amount of config line see if it boot, if it do boot you know the wrong line is in the config line you remove, keep removing till you know what line cause this. Or you can start from a config.g from a radds user and modby GroupB - Controllers
Well look like a have a different version of what homemade mean, for me its made/produce your own parts more than assemble your own kit.by GroupB - Delta Machines
I dont get the "homemade" part in your tittle ...What exactly is homemade is you buy all the parts ?by GroupB - Delta Machines
Si j'etait toi je ferais le contraire sois les moteur et fan/hotend en 12v et le bed en 24V si ton model de bed le permet. Sinon tout en 24V tu n'a pas a changer la hotend au complet .. que la cartouche. Si tu commande chez les chinois regarde chez robotdigg ( bonne qualiter pour des chinois), il on les cartouche ,les fans ( cooling et hotend), les psu 24V 15A et des copie de hotend si jamais .by GroupB - Delta Machines
il n'y a pas de cavalier pour la tension principal c'est sur... il y a surement un regulateur pour donner du 5v ou 3v3 volt et cest tout et peut etre un cavalier pour le 5volt externe ou celui du regulateur. 24V c'est mieux que le 12v pour les imprimante ... equipe toi pour le 24V , change ta cartouche et tes fans et voila. Pour ton plateau chauffant meme avec lallimentation d'origine 12V 20Aby GroupB - Delta Machines
Une petite recherche google dit que ton board est compatible 24V ... tu peux egalement verifier le "rating" des composante les capacitor devrai etre au moin 35V + Tu doit verifier ta cartouche dans ta hotend pour quel soit 24V compatible, sinon elle va te donner trop de watt, il y a des personne qui utilise des cartouche 12v sur du 24V mais je ne recommand pas c'est dangereux vaut mieux avoir uby GroupB - Delta Machines
There is a way to make low price metal corner without having them machined if you really want to, Use L shape alu bar cut at 60 degree with a couple of hole thats it (require a miter saw or a tablesaw with sled or get them to a machinist) I did it on mine its kind of a hexagone but with only 3 tower , I made the corner so large that the triangle form became a hexagon, having them that way help thby GroupB - Delta Machines
is this full layer shift or wall not straight enough ? I know that if this is wall not straight enough ( shifting in/out) and your pulley are not loose, have a bigger tension on the belt can fix this. Mine 1 M long extrusion register with a guitar tuner I dont exactly remember the note but I think its in my build thread somewhere, I was afraid to have them this tight but it fix all my wall problby GroupB - Delta Machines
IF you want to use Reprap Firmware ( same as duet) with a radds forget the LCD thing, it work only on marlin and repetier Not on Reprap Firmware. Ill chose radds over any smoothie clone for sure again because of Reprap Firmware and support and the fact that the board is not a clone at all so QC is higher and Ill change the driver for raps128 or sd6168 since the tmc2660 are SPI controlled right ?by GroupB - General
Quotenebbian Quoteo_lampe Quote I'm starting to really wonder why no drivers ever seem to be in the best mode by default. Why should we always have to mod them??? The best mode is a quiet stepper for some of us ( running and/or holding), others prefer the best torque. Mixed decay is a compromise. My SD6128's were quieter, and more accurate after modding. you have to mod them ? dont you justby GroupB - Delta Machines
No advance DJ , I did not look into that yet, I post picture of my result in TPE in a post in delta one of the 2 thread talking about the flying extruder I think. When I say drill it , I mean that.. drill the center so the bowden can pass through it like the pushfit that go on the head.. Mine Full metal one from robotdigg were also too small, the tube enter it but got block in the back, so I dby GroupB - General
I print flexible with a 650-700 mm bowden and it work great, I was in fact blow away by the result when I tried the first time I was reading bowden cant print flexible but you can. You need to drill that pneumatic connector to allow the tube to go through and cut the tube in a V shape and get that V close as possible to the extruder gear/bearing so when pushing the filament it wont twist andby GroupB - General
There also Octoprint for wifi use of the printer and to remove the need to hook to a PCby GroupB - General
Strange, when I switch to TH6128 they disappear for me, still have them in mix decay too. For me it was stepper driver problem at 100% , but even with my old 8825 the tree artefact was not as bad as the example you show. Are you able to take one stepper out and hook it to a arduino with a simple step pulse code and hook it up to a multimeter to read the A on one of the stepper coil ? I did thisby GroupB - Delta Machines
I had those tree ring stuff when I was using the 8825 ( remember my build post nebbian, we determine that was the "low current zone" that miss step that was doing that) , I was using the same radds and rrf firmware I use now , the difference is im now using the raps128 in 1/64 in 24V instead of the 8825 in 12V in 1/32. For me the driver switch make them disappear I change nothing of the machineby GroupB - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian Quotesungod3k With my Re-arm now working I was also looking for new drivers. there is one here the promises 1/128 step for 11,5$ I have a set, and really like them. Even at 1/16 they are better than A4988, and stronger then TMC2100. I'm going to try them at higher microsteps soon. I also run them for the past 8-9 month ( raps version , TH6128) and like them a lot too, compare toby GroupB - General
Well if you are in europe there better place and price to get the radds since it made in germany, But whatever you do avoid the drv8825 at all cost they have a very bad low current zone, result in missing step in slow and small movement, those movement we do them a lot on delta when doing a straight line one carrier is moving slowly and only a couple MM so we go right into that low current zone.by GroupB - General
If you want to use the DUE use the radds shield (63$ makerfarm in the US) Not the rampsFD, the old version got clone and QC is bad, the new version was suppose to come up to market but never did. + with radds you can use marlin/repetier and RRF (same as duet). So you can compare 16 bit with 32 bit using the same firmware or go RRF and see the higher quality when using a proper 32bit firmware witby GroupB - General
The duet will be perfect if the board had no driver on it but only like 6 socket and mosfet for the xtra 2 extruder, a little like the radds but with the mcu/usb/wifi or ethernet on the same board, Then you sell some driver board ( like a full board with drivers( better cooling) but with the pin that match the separate socket on the main board). From there you sell 4-5-6 driver option or even difby GroupB - Controllers
They are really the same firmware side .. the new stuff on reprap firmware is often some special stuff only use by few, and we also got them on radds now. Myself im on last october firmware release By Dnewman and I dont feel I miss anything from new release. But yeah DC42 did not officially take the radds support so there some chance we end up with no update one day. The difference are in the boby GroupB - Controllers
Reprap Firmware that all you need to list in the + I got a radds on this firmware and I wont change that firmware to anything else, simple to setup,modify lot of support and update ( not only to original duet user but also concurrent board like the radds that run the same firmware got support and update), its not something we can say from all firmware some refuse or are recalcitrant to help ifby GroupB - General
Whoa I have my Idler pulley Bottom and top on 5mm SS shaft (motor pulley support on each end by bearing) and the one at the motor for the belt tightness on M5 screw ( I use one at the bottom too because my motor are not facing the tower) and Im afraid to bend those 5mm shaft I cant imagine going 3mm this will bend with the force I have on my 1 M high tower. I said go for 5mm idler if you can anby GroupB - Delta Machines
Penser faire une carte avec un PIC et ecrire ton propre firmware ne ferais que perdre ton temps, il y a deja de meilleur solution de disponible. tu sais que un firmware 8 bit marlin est limiter au niveau des delta non? j'imagine que tu a une carte 8 bit aussi, c'est la raison pourquoi tu ne trouve pas beaucoup d'info sur ce setup, la majorite des delta roule sur du 32 bit Reprap Firmware ( ecritby GroupB - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
QuoteDjDemonD Okay maybe I'm being slightly pessimistic but Marlin is frequently quoted as only being able to generate 40khz step pulses from a mega/ramps board. So you're using repetier? I've little experience with it, but to do the moves you quoted that's 75khz step pulses, so that seems reasonable from what I'm told it's code is more efficient. But on a delta is a pure z move really a good teby GroupB - General
Just to lets you know ALL firmware can be control from a phone/tablet/computer by wifi or ethernet if you add a raspberry pie , the main thing you should be looking for is the micro stepping available and firmware. Duet is a good board but if your after a real micro stepping 32 and higher please note the 256 stepping is not really a 256 stepping but a 16 stepping that the driver multiply with soby GroupB - Delta Machines
the duet 0.6 is a 1/16 micro stepping only, you did not specify what stepping your looking at , or onboard or removable driver. On top of my head there is the Duet boards, with RRF firmware ( one of the best firmware for delta) The radds/Due Combo with Marlin/repetier OR RRF firmware (removable driver so you use a old A4988 or the fancy raps128 or TMC ) A bunch of different smoothie clone boarby GroupB - Delta Machines
For smaller hole they gonna use a drill bit anyway so it will be the precision of the drill bit( unless you require a really high tolerance), I dont think it will be so off as what you think, not 4.8 or 5.2 it will be 5 something if you need tolerance at only part you name the tolerance requirement in your blueprint, a normal if its not so important say 0.003- 0.005 inch will cost WAY less than 0by GroupB - General
Quoteo_lampe Has anyone found another pin that works as z-probe input than PWM3? I grilled mine yesterday and it seems both other pins RRF can use with Duet boards are occupied on RADDS. Can I use Z-min endstop as probe input? How do I tell RRF to use this pin? ( M558 P? ) If you cant find a replacement for that pin or compile a new firmware with a new pin. At least you dont have to change theby GroupB - Controllers
I dont know if its made it the the main fork of octoprint but I use another one that can detect the radds sd card file, someone I dont remember post a link in this thread about that couple month ago, the main fork was not detecting the content of the radds sd card so someone did a modification for us radds user. Since then I dont upload ( took too much time with streaming anyway) or store thingby GroupB - Controllers