The only thing I can think of is that the default baud rate is set to 250000 which is an odd-ball baud rate, but I didn't think windows drivers had a problem with it. I use Linux and I had to set marlin firmware with a modified 115200 baud rate. I know that the knock-off boards that are probably used for these machines are likely to have counterfeit FTDI usb<->serial chips and that the laby hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedalgibbard Quotehoxsiew I've made a few changes (added trapezoidal leadscrews to the z-axis, DRV8825 board for extruder Sorry to necro post, but i'm also interested in replacing the stock z-axis threaded rods, and adding a DRV8825 too; two things if I may?: * For the Z rods, could you possibly provide links to where you got yours, or an idea of what specification to look for? * For replacinby hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
It's hard to get my camera to focus that close, and this is the best I could do. It may be dented a little on on side, or perhaps just drilled a bit off center. Keep in mind that there is a slug of grey ABS in there too.by hoxsiew - Printing
I did have to pull the thermistor out of the old block through a birds nest of filament and worried that I might have damaged the leads, but it seems OK and give reasonable values on temperature. I think I've since figured it out and, as suggested earlier in the thread, it seems to have been the nozzle. I soaked my old one in acetone (took 3 or 4 days to fully dissolve the ABS), then installedby hoxsiew - Printing
I hadn't even considered that, but it makes perfect sense. Not only just the heights, but the fact that there's going to be a considerable thermodynamic difference between the threaded and non-threaded tubes. Thanks!by hoxsiew - Printing
It has a PTFE liner, as did the previous. It is different in that the previous pipe was smooth until that last few millimeters which were threaded. The new one is threaded through the whole length. It is held in place by a set screw in the extruder block so the threading doesn't matter (except possibly less thermal contact with the extruder block). I purchased several nozzles at the same timeby hoxsiew - Printing
I've been printing these ABS caps as thread protectors: Everything was working great and I'd printed about 20 or so until I had a part come loose and ended up with a bird's nest of filament engulfing my hotend. I managed to get it loose and replaced it with a spare block that was essentially identical. I used the same heater (40 watt) and thermistor in the new block, and added a new nozzleby hoxsiew - Printing
I suppose it's possible that this could be caused by the new M$ FTDI drivers which refuse to function on counterfeit FTDI chips. Since it happened out of the blue, it could have been a windows update. The only way I could think of to check would be try to connect with a linux machine.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm not sure what you mean by "average performance daily". I usually run at 0.1 mm.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
I did this piece at 50 microns just to see what was possible. My wife would like to try a stab at jewelry with my printer.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
Try 250000 baud. That is what my Chinese clone was set to and is the default for Marlin at least. I changed it to 115200 when I installed my own changes via Marlin.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLucas Azevedo Quotehoxsiew Is this pla or abs? PLA.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
I've found that Torx drivers in a size slightly above that of the hex that is stripped will work very well. The sharp points of the Torx will grab nicely in what's left of the stripped hex. I have a set of Torx drivers down to T3.by hoxsiew - Reprappers
QuoteLucas Azevedo Yes is just the x axis but i don't know why is this occurs..... One more thing does anyone applied here the proximity sensor? Can you guys show some print from this printer... Mines aren't soo well The one I got had no mention of a proximity sensor. I assume you mean something for auto-leveling the bed. As I said, that wasn't included in my kit. I just set the z-axis stop tby hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLucas Azevedo Quotebrs1701d QuoteLucas Azevedo Hy Guys , Finally solved the problem with my printer by justing leveling with a manual leveler but i still have a problem... my prusa is doing too mutch noise.... is this a normal problem ? It's whether or not the noise is normal, these machines aren't that quiet. How about visiting youtube and listen to some of the printers running? This willby hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJamesK QuoteMK8 extruder with fan. Is that a print cooling fan or just the fan on the extruder? PLA needs a well directed print cooling fan for good overhang performance. Overhangs also tend to improve with wider extrusion. I'd expect it also to be better with smaller layer heights (because there is more overlap of the outer extrusion per layer, and a smaller percentage hanging out in spaceby hoxsiew - Printing
I've gotten my Prusa i3 about as tuned as possible and it make great prints with one exception: overhangs. I haven't been able to find the magic formula that works for this. Things like the cube test come out as close to perfect as you could hope for. But overhangs look like shit. Both were printed with 1.75 PLA (Inland black) using cura with identical settings except infill (0%/20%). 19by hoxsiew - Printing
Quotess002d6252 Thanks guys Hmm , it appears to be an extrusion issue. No matter what esteps value I change to (via marlin - and checked with pronterface & repetier to make sure it is updating) the extruder pushes though around 180mm for every 100mm it's asked to. It's off - I've checked the board and everything seems ok on that. I also seem to be getting the occasional knocking noise froby hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you sure that pitch is right? Most use M8x1.25mm threaded rods. Of course that wouldn't account for the 1/4 stepping readings either.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
Oh, I misread. Sorry. I tried searching for one, but I couldn't find any off-the-shelf parts, but there seem to be quite a few printed versions like this:by hoxsiew - Reprappers
It's probably a GT2 belt. Search for that on ebay, amazon, etc.by hoxsiew - Reprappers
Home is where the endstops are. For a typical I3, it should be thus: X all the way to the left, Y all the way back, and Z all the way down; each until it hit's its respective endstop.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
Try re-installing it again. Serial <-> USB protocol is not the most robust. It's possible for a corruption in data during the tansfer.by hoxsiew - Reprappers
Quotefredchan work for A4988 also , the white cubes are printed using Kossel mini, Mega2560 + RAMPS + 4 x A4988 So are you the developer? Are these voltage limiting or flyback diodes? The page you (and digital dentist) reference seems to only apply to a DRV8825 and only one that has some means of setting the decay mode pin (not present on pololu type boards and not even a thing on A4988s).by hoxsiew - General
QuoteTinchus Im also interested... what is the lectronic part???? the post in thingiverse explains nothing.... Can soeone provide instructions and how and why this electronics would solve the rippling effect? The board's mask shows "5408" so I would assume 1N5408 diodes. See: for an explanation.by hoxsiew - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Quotenebbian It looks to me like the diode hack, in a nice modular board form. That hack is specific to DRV8825 drivers operating in a specific decay mode and not generally applicable. Of course, most people are probably not aware of that... Why would this be specific to DRV8825s? It's never a bad idea to have flyback diodes on an inductive device. I would have assby hoxsiew - General
Yes, but it depends on what you'r after. I bought a $250 I3 kit and it had some issues, but taking care of those issues taught me a lot about 3D printing and can't put a price on that experience.by hoxsiew - General
Try this for your Configuration.h. It's for Marlin_1.1.0_rc3 which is not the latest. If you need one for a later version, I'll see what I can do. I'm currently running 1.1.0_rc3 and haven't tried anything else yet.by hoxsiew - Printing
Well, having the leads already connected and all is nice, but you'll still need to attach the plug to connect to the board. The GT2560 clone board uses different connectors than RAMPS, etc. The connector for the thermistor is (I think) called an XH-2P connector. Looks like this: Maybe you can find a pre-wired thermistor with this connector in Australia (I take it you are from there).by hoxsiew - Printing
How are your soldering skills? That thermistor you linked is bare. You'll need to solder leads, get teflon shields, and heatshrink it all up. You can get one with all that already done for not much more. I assume you're able to compile and upload Marlin through the Arduino IDE so let me know what version your using and I'll try and tailor a Configuration.h file for you.by hoxsiew - Printing