Okay, I first gave it a thorough cleaning with a toothbrush, first Acetone then window cleaner. Still no improvement. Then I tried some really low bed temperature - and behold it sticks. I learned that there is a significant difference between curling and warping - this transparent PLA is extremely flexible when hot, almost like chewing gum, and it curls the corners up on a hot bed. I will haby Anna & Karl - General
Thank you for all your ideas! I would try to put a layer of ABS juice, but wouldn't that help only for printing with ABS? We have checked bed temp, and it is practically the same all over the surface. We have been through all kinds of nozzle temps and bed temps. Using a brim as standard and we have the fan off during the first few layers. Now we are a bit out of our wits... maybe I take the plby Anna & Karl - General
Quotegadgetmind I've got some transparent PLA that needs 230C to stick to PrintBite and some other PLA that's fine at 200C. More bed temperature also helps, but once past 65C I start seeing corner curling. Yes, height is critical and I now have my own level test that's 9 discs with holes in them printed in a 3x3 grid and only one layer thick. This lets me quickly check and tweak level and then Iby Anna & Karl - General
Conseguimos, com a ajuda de uma senhora da RepRap.pt que nos deu umas dicas: Nozzle 230°C Cama 70°C (no nosso caso 80°C - mas e por termos uma placa espessa mais uma superfície aderente, com cama normal os 70 devem ser suficiente) Espessura 0.2 mm Infill Grid retangular, 25 % - vou ter que experimentar com este valor, fiquei espantada de conseguir tanta resistência com um infill tão baixo Fanby Anna & Karl - Portuguese RUG
Bom dia, comprei filamento PETG na loja online da RepRap.pt para imprimir o frame de um racing drone. O frame impresso em PLA já está a ser usado com bom sucesso. Fizemos testes de resistência comparando PLA e PETG (a mesma parte impressa em vários materiais diferentes e com temperaturas diferentes), e usámos as temperaturas indicadas na embalagem do PETG (estranhamente muito mais baixas do queby Anna & Karl - Portuguese RUG
I am using mesh bed leveling now - it works much better and is not complicated. Just needs a few lines uncommented in the firmware and it now prints perfectly well. No more autoleveling for me!by Anna & Karl - Firmware - Marlin
We are trying to print, with Marlin 1.1.0, RC2 on a Prusa i3 steel on a print bed of 0.8mm machined aluminium (really even!), and using an inductive sensor for the auto bed leveling. We send first G28, then G29, then start the print. The auto bed leveling is in fact compensating for the tilt of the bed, but unevenly: while the nozzle hits the proper height on the right side of the bed, it printsby Anna & Karl - Firmware - Marlin
It is a ISP programmer I am using - for using it to flash the firmware on the Sav MkI in Arduino 1.6.9 I need the boards.txt and programmer.txt in the Teensy folder - and the ones that exist are made for Arduino 1.0.6, they do not work in Arduino 1.6.9by Anna & Karl - Firmware - Marlin
Yes, I have put my settings in the BugFix Version, but I can't upload it. Arduino 1.6.9 does not accept the Sav MkI files (those that are copied into the Teensy hardware folder) that would let me upload it with either the USBtinyISP or the bootloader. To upload anything to the Sav MkI board, I can only use Arduino 1.0.6 - and the BugFix doesn't accept Arduino 1.0.6.by Anna & Karl - Firmware - Marlin
I am trying to install an inductive sensor on my Prusa i3 Steel, using a SAV MkI as a board. I managed to get the sensor to trigger correctly with this version of Marlin - I installed with Arduino IDE 1.0.6 and USBtinyISP. Unfortunately this firmware has the problem that the Z axis will not raise before the homing of X and Y and this could cause the nozzle to drag over the print surface. This iby Anna & Karl - Firmware - Marlin
The missing size on my board was more or less the space used by the bootloader. I still had a USBasp programmer cable somewhere, so I used that to upload the firmware (and overwrite the bootloader). Uploading the software like this is very easy, and although I was afraid to brick my board, nothing bad happened. Just plug the cable in the computer, upload a driver for USBasp (explained here), linkby Anna & Karl - General
Adding insult to injury? After removing the final error by installing a newer version of u8g: This report would have more information with "Show verbose output during compilation" enabled in File > Preferences. Arduino: 1.0.6 + Td: 1.29 (Windows NT (unknown)), Board: "SAV-MkI_RevD" Binary sketch size: 126.218 bytes (of a 122.048 byte maximum) processing.app.debug.RunnerException: Skeby Anna & Karl - General
.... aaaand finally, down to one. I had different Arduino installations and libraries that I needed to delete, and the u8g library was missing and had to be installed. I fixed all that and have now only one error: This report would have more information with "Show verbose output during compilation" enabled in File > Preferences. Arduino: 1.0.6 + Td: 1.29 (Windows NT (unknown)), Board:by Anna & Karl - General
Now I tried the same with Arduino IDE 1.0.6, before I had 1.6.9. I am now getting a new list of errors: This report would have more information with "Show verbose output during compilation" enabled in File > Preferences. Arduino: 1.0.6 + Td: 1.29 (Windows NT (unknown)), Board: "SAV-MkI_RevD" In file included from /dogm_lcd_implementation.h:50, from ultralcd.cpp:34: dby Anna & Karl - General
When trying to upload new Marlin firmware onto our SAV MkI board, I get the following compile error in the Arduino IDE: Arduino: 1.6.9 (Windows 10), TD: 1.29, Board: "SAV-MkI_RevD" Warning: Board teensy:avr:cdcsavD doesn't define a 'build.board' preference. Auto-set to: AVR_CDCSAVD Warning: Board teensy:avr:usbtsav doesn't define a 'build.board' preference. Auto-set to: AVR_USBTSAV Warning: Boby Anna & Karl - General
Alguém sabe onde se poderá encontrar uma placa de alumínio para se utilizar como cama de impressão em Portugal?by Anna & Karl - Portuguese RUG
Further test I did: Sending G1 Z10 just lifts the Z-axis 5mm. Should I calibrate it? But how could it stay de-calibrated if everything was working fine before?by Anna & Karl - General
A strange problem has suddenly appeard: our Prusa with Marlin firmware on SAV.Mkl suddenly prints every layer with half the height. It happens -with different files -with different slicers -printing over SD -printing over USB. What could I try next to find out what causes this? My son was trying to print something with 0.1 layer height instead of the 0.2 or 0.25 we usually print with - problemby Anna & Karl - General
...and after running some very long prints during the last few weeks, everything is still working fine! Thank you all for your help!by Anna & Karl - General
Does anyone have any indications how PrintBite behaves with capacitive proximity sensors? I am thinking about installing one and would be interested in your experiences. What about inductive sensors with aluminium under the PrintBite - would that be likely to work?by Anna & Karl - General
After changing the PID values, the problem dind't occur during yesterday's prints. Bit early to be sure about it, but I hope it remains like that! Thank you all for your help!by Anna & Karl - General
Olá, somos Anna (mãe alemã) e Karl (filho português) dos arredores de Covilhã e começamos há pouco a imprimir coisas na nossa i3 Steel (kit de kitprinter3d). Esperamos de encontrar mais interessados perto de nos para troca de ideias. Temos muitas ideias para melhorar a technologia, falta-nos o conhecimento técnico - estamos a aprender imensas coisas. Melhor adhesão, auto-leveling, mais e maioreby Anna & Karl - Portuguese RUG
I found the files for my specific model of printer: Github.com. Hopefully that enables me to change the values without rendering the printer unusable. I will have a look at the PIDs later to see if I can improve the settings.by Anna & Karl - General
No, I never have touched any PIDs - any good instructions for that anywhere? If I could solve it there it would be preferable.by Anna & Karl - General
I would need to change the value to about 105 seconds or 10 degrees to avoid the trigger. I guess that is still safe enough to avoid the workshop burning down - but I will run more prints to find out if it behaves more or less in the same way every time. Are these values an indication of a bad thermistor? The actual temperature would certainly not decrease so quickly - but are these readings withby Anna & Karl - General
So is it Configuration_adv.h and not Configuration.h that I should change? What other values in there do I need to change to adjust to my specific model? I got the printer with the firmware already configured and am reluctant to make any firmware modifications.by Anna & Karl - General
Okay, we finally found time to run a print, and the thermal runaway was detected within the first two minutes of the print on the hotend thermistor. Below is the temp info from the host, and it shows a very quick decrease of the temperature of about 10° within 19 seconds. After that temp starts going up again, but that is when the thermal runaway protection is triggered. 20:07:47.070 : ok T:195.by Anna & Karl - General
QuoteMCcarman I don't know if this is the issue but some readers may be interested to know:- Some firmware has a protection feature that checks that after first reaching your target temperature, you reach it again within a certain time. Something like 30seconds. This is to protect for the thermistor coming of the hot part and under reading. ... If the heater is cycling but not maintaining temperaby Anna & Karl - General
We are running our Prusa i3 steel with SAV Mkl and Marlin firmware since a few months. Problems have started to appear since my son mounted a double fan to cool the print. Now we get a thermal runaway error many times. We have changed the thermistors in bed and hotend several times, and the error appears randomly at any time during the print. I believe that this could be solved by changing the hyby Anna & Karl - General
James, you were right. The pulley was the problem after all, and if you hadn't mentioned how hard this is to spot, I would have thought "Meh, of course I now how to tighten a grub screw!". I also found that feedrate and acceleration settings can be changed easily over the Repetier host. And so, after lots of silly mistakes, my son and me finally managed to print something decent today!by Anna & Karl - Printing