Show all posts by user

Re: Noctua hotend fan not cooling enough? - 6 years ago

It's something I designed. The duct that blows across the throat aims the air upwards, can't feel much airflow if any on the heater block. I want to test it a bit more and see if I can increase the airflow for part cooling a bit before releasing it. But, I think it may be as good as I can get it.

by lockezio - Reprappers

Re: Noctua hotend fan not cooling enough? - 6 years ago

I use a noctua on an mk8 style extruder with a shroud similar to one on thingiverse that directs air to do part cooling as well. I modified the design a lot though and the fan cools the throat and heatsink really well, no jams, clogs or ptfe breakdown. It's not enough air for part cooling, but works better than nothing at all.

by lockezio - Reprappers

Re: Re-using Hot end cooling air to cool object? - 7 years ago

I currently do this, it's not perfect, but it does work. I have to do some modification to the design i made to increase air flow to the print still, but i also routed air to blow across the top of the throat which has significantly reduced jamming.

by lockezio - General

Re: Changing eeprom values mid-print?(+a bonus question) - 7 years ago

Could be bearing noise as well. I made a new extruder carriage that puts different forces on the system and the ringing seems to have settled down a bit.

by lockezio - General

Re: Moving bed or Moving Gantry(Head) - 7 years ago

I was thinking about doing a moving gantry, but then thought that the head wizzing around may cause more artifacts in the print since it would be less stable then solidly mounted to the frame with a bed that lowers.. I havnt built either idea yet though so this I is purely guessing on my part.

by lockezio - CoreXY Machines

Re: Tracking Axis movement with Rotary Encoders - 7 years ago

Rotary encoders still need 0 calibrated, so you would still need an end stop. You just get absolute positioning from them as long as the sensor is quick enough and the encoder has high enough pulses and your motion system can move with accuracy to match the encoder. I used to rebuild HID that used optical rotary encoders for position. The software that used them needed you to put the controls to

by lockezio - CoreXY Machines

Re: exstruder problem - 7 years ago

Does filament extrude manually?

by lockezio - Reprappers

Re: Deformation test - 7 years ago

Color makes a big difference in heat generated by light. White will always stay the coolest as it absorbs little to no energy from the light. Black will always be the warmest as it absorbs most too all energy from the light. If you are using sunlight for your heat source then all materials would need to be the same color for accurate readings. I am sure there is a lot more to consider then what I

by lockezio - Printing

Re: different layer height for two extruders - 7 years ago

Cura 2.4 has a layer height setting for each nozzel as well I think. I haven't really used dual extrusion much yet though.

by lockezio - Slic3r

Re: nozzle height - mind blown, can you clarify - 7 years ago

The sheet of paper is for thermal expansion. If you have your bed and nozzel at print temperature the nozzel should touch the bed when homed from what I've read. If you want to level it so it is dead on when touching the glass, manually control the nozzel to .1mm off the bed when both are at print temperature and use a feeler gauge while it is at .1 instead of at 0. I would check the steps per m

by lockezio - Printing

Re: RepRap Guru i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 7 years ago

I think it's a Chinese psu. I have been running mine non stop for almost a year and had no problems. But, I have heavily modified the printer over that time as well.

by lockezio - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: MM to inches - 7 years ago

Conversion is 25.4, divide for inches multiply for milimeters.

by lockezio - Slic3r

Re: E-Step, Random Length extruded with same E-Step Value - 7 years ago

Yeah, if it's not the gear set then it would have to be either the motor, driver, signal wires, or firmware, would be my assumption. But, I don't have enough experience to know where to start.

by lockezio - General

Re: E-Step, Random Length extruded with same E-Step Value - 7 years ago

How about the teeth on the hobbed gear. I have a direct drive and the teeth got flattened after running pc-abs alloy. It didn't make noise, just didn't extrude properly.

by lockezio - General

Re: Lead Screw Recomendataions - 7 years ago

I am building a leadscrew only printer currently. Just have to finish up the enclosure design and get the parts made. I also use z hop during retraction and disable combing so my surface finish is nice and smooth and I don't lose details due to pressure drop while coasting. A faster z lowers print time in that situation. I am still tinkering to see what kind of speeds I can get.

by lockezio - General

Re: Lead Screw Recomendataions - 7 years ago

I currently don't see banding from z wobble, but I can see the vibration from the ball bearings, possibly motors too, which is annoying. I am going to sample out some igus filament and see if I can use it to finish my i3 upgrades. My screws were $12 each and came with a bronze nut. I also have them supported by bearing blocks on top and bottom and driven by one motor using a belt. I was just rea

by lockezio - General

Re: Lead Screw Recomendataions - 7 years ago

I got mine off amazon. I have 400mm 8mm 4 start screws that are fairly straightforward from drillpro. What's better for leadscrews depends on what you want, speed or resolution. An 8mm 4 start moves 8mm in one revolution. 8mm ÷200steps÷16 microstepping = .0025mm per step A 2 start moves 4mm in one revolution so the resolution is twice as fine, but speeds are slower. I don't remember off hand th

by lockezio - General

Re: Random Lines in print - 7 years ago

Have you checked your extruder gear? My brass gear started doing things like that as it wore out, giving inconsistent extrusion.

by lockezio - General Mendel Topics

Re: Printer does dots instead a circle - 7 years ago

It usually only does things like this when the model is designed with the shell thickness. If you can make it solid and print with 0 infill and no top and bottom layers it won't typically. You can also try exporting a higher resolution model, .01 or .001mm. The problem isn't really cura pursue, it's more that when you translate an object to a stl, the model is broken into flat polygons. The mor

by lockezio - Ormerod

Re: Printer does dots instead a circle - 7 years ago

Do you mean that it prints the dots then prints the heart shape over top of them. Or, does it only print dots for the semicircle? If it's the first, then it's just the way slicers interpret the models, tiny gaps in circular shapes that sometimes get filled during perimeters and some times skipped. Since the slicers break the circles into lines rather than arcs. If it's the latter I don't have a

by lockezio - Ormerod

Re: Layer shifting just in one part of the model? - 7 years ago

The guitar broke loose, or was flexable enough to move, the print head moved it and the next layer stuck to it without skipping steps. Try using z hop so that the nozzel gets set onto a layer instead of just traveling.

by lockezio - General

Re: How do I make my rafts easily removable using Cura? - 7 years ago

I print my rafts with 2 top layers and an air gap of .18 with standard extrusion, 100%. If I print at 180c for pla it breaks off easy. If I print higher temperatures I some times need to use a xacto chisel blade to help, but it still comes off nice and clean. I also print the first layer at 20 to 40mms. It looks smoothest with anything over .2mm in layer height. I am thinking I need to drop it to

by lockezio - Printing

Re: Jerk And Accl Issues - 7 years ago

What speeds are your slicer settings at. The firmware setting look fine to me.

by lockezio - Printing

Re: Motors - how bad are the regenerative current and the EMI relatated issues - 7 years ago

I used to get that because my bearings weren't moving smoothly. I tweaked the rails to make sure they were smooth moving, cleaned and lightly oiled them with 3 in one oil, and made sure my belts line up with out rubbing on the sides of the pulleys and it went away at pretty much any speed.

by lockezio - General

Re: Issues around screw holes. - 7 years ago

I have a problem with pressure dropping in the nozzel with cura for screw holes. I have my retraction settings set to where it should retract, but instead just preforms a travel move and oozes out extra filament, even at low temperatures. This causes it to under extrude around interior features. But as ggherbaz said, your multiplier should be over 100% with your measured filament diameter, mean

by lockezio - Printing

Re: PETG Print Quality Help - 7 years ago

I have printed pet at 190 to 210 @40mm/s with .1 and .2 layer heights. I found that printing at higher temperatures caused more oozing and my prints to be extremely brittle. If you are having problems with layers delaminating it could be do to the extrusion multiplier, I read that using the multiplier instead of adjusting e steps can cause prints to be weaker and the layers to not stick as well.

by lockezio - Printing

Re: PETG Print Quality Help - 7 years ago

I have printed pet at 190 to 210 @40mm/s with .1 and .2 layer heights. I found that printing at higher temperatures caused more oozing and my prints to be extremely brittle. If you are having problems with layers delaminating it could be do to the extrusion multiplier, I read that using the multiplier instead of adjusting e steps can cause prints to be weaker and the layers to not stick as well.

by lockezio - Printing

Re: PETG Print Quality Help - 7 years ago

Pet oozes a lot. Try to find the coolest you can print is my recommendation as a first step.

by lockezio - Printing

Re: Update of my print quality. - 8 years ago

The squishing of the bottom layers could be do to high bed temperatures, or that's what I've encountered.

by lockezio - Reprappers

Re: Uneven surface problem - 8 years ago

The defects I see off hand are a bit of over extrusion, bed not leveled properly, and some acceleration and jerk settings. There could be other things, bed too hot during printing possibly, but those are the most prominent issues I see.

by lockezio - Printing