I had alot off problems with my Clone R1 all metal hotend and PLA. But now i am using Raise3D printer with their all metal hotend and never had any problems. It is really amazing. They use titanium for the heatbreak part.by Trhuster - General
Oh, this print finished without warping.by Trhuster - General
QuoteMutley3D MightyMouth - Nice work and great example! Trhuster - Given your bed shuts off at 120 meaning you have to limit to 118, can you increase your temp limit in firmware? Sounds like you are just shy of the temp threshold as your top surface temp may be -10ish from thermistor reading Origamib - looks like your bit of lift there is from where the edge of the heatbed is not as hot, or poby Trhuster - General
So dedicated my whole day for this. My main goal was to see how good my ABS would stick to the plate so i did not use the top on the printer for those tests. First i tested Igoo3d ABS and it did stick better the hotter the plate was. 118c is max because when it reach 120c heated plate shuts off. Hotend temp did not help at all, 230, 240,250c was the same. Second i tested Z-ABS and only at 118cby Trhuster - General
I will start testing this in a better way. Using this warp test part. I will post about my findings when i am done.by Trhuster - General
QuoteOrigamib I'm surprised people have issues with this stuff, I received mine a few days ago and tried it out for the first time last night and wow does it stick! What I've noticed is that you need to level the bed slightly closer to get it to stick, normally I use gauges to level the hot end to 0.08mm away, but with this it's more like 0.06 is needed. I never liked the paper method, far tooby Trhuster - General
QuoteMutley3D QuoteTrhuster QuoteMutley3D Trhuster - what bed construction do you have there - looks like round magnets? My thought is simply regarding your true top surface temp - maybe you need to increase bed temp a touch more, sounds like you almost have the adhesion fully switched on. is your heater in direct contact with surface underneath. Printing ABS at 290 is going to degrade/decomposeby Trhuster - General
QuoteMutley3D Trhuster - what bed construction do you have there - looks like round magnets? My thought is simply regarding your true top surface temp - maybe you need to increase bed temp a touch more, sounds like you almost have the adhesion fully switched on. is your heater in direct contact with surface underneath. Printing ABS at 290 is going to degrade/decompose the ABS if it actually is 2by Trhuster - General
Hi, i also got a PrintBite and testing it in my Rasie3D N1. I mostly print with ABS and buildtak does a real good job holding it stuck to the plate real hard. But after like 50 prints my buildtak was getting worse and then i decided to try PrintBite out. I have read the whole thread so i started with Z-ABS that i normally print with at 280c and set it 290c and bed at 100c. ABS did not stick veryby Trhuster - General