All good. As long as you are up and running. Happy printing!by 3dGriff - Printing
It looks like you have already made the adjustments but we have a quick guide on this here if it helps at this point: Good to hear you are feeding well at this point, do you have auto bed level or a z probe on this machine? Let me know how the print turns out at this point. Thanks.by 3dGriff - Printing
First verify that your extruder Vref is not in excess of .68, this should be your top end for the motor so you can run lower. I'm not sure how you calibrated your extruder steps, but assuming you have a MK8 with an 11mm drive gear and 1.8 degree step (200 steps per revolution) your e-steps should be 92.59. This can be found using the following formula if something is different on your machine..by 3dGriff - Printing
What drivers are you using and what are the rated amps for your steppers?by 3dGriff - Printing
Well hopefully that solves the issue, if not let me know.by 3dGriff - Printing
Sounds good, let me know what you find out on that end.by 3dGriff - Printing
Please provide the follwoing: Filament Type Break Type (All Metal or...) Temp Layer Height Speed This will give me a better idea of where to start. Thanks!by 3dGriff - Printing
Hey, I happen to have one of those probes on hand but haven't worked with it. Check out the included link for the wiring diagram, let me know if you have issues moving forward, I'll be sure to give you a hand if you need it. Regardless of the probe you use we should be able to get you up and running. I hope this helps.by 3dGriff - Printing
I am doing some house cleaning, can an admin please change my username to 3dGriff to match my other accounts please?by 3dGriff - Administration, Announcements, Policy
I just recently started having a similar issue, hoping to look into it next week. I will update if we can trace the issue—just wanted to let you know you're not alone. Let us know if you find the issue as well. Thanks.by 3dGriff - General
Well considering that nobody that backed the project is getting their printers it's kind of a bad deal I think, it's a good idea but as previously mentioned it violates some patents and is not something that's deliverable at the price point. In short I consider this to be a blow to consumer printing as a whole, many machines that come out are detrimental to the cause due to poor quality machines,by 3dGriff - General
As Nebbian said, you are probably not looking for a delta printer, I have a delta and it's very heavy on calibration and can be a bit overwhelming for a first printer. You would be best looking at a Mandle design, the Prusa i3 is pretty much bullet proof. When sourcing these kits it's important to keep in mind the quality of the parts, as an example, in my design process I tested almost 20 diffby 3dGriff - General
Ok, some quick questions: Did you get to flash the firmware to the new board at this point? Have you verified the two LCD cables are connected to the correct points on the board? Let me know if you have done the above, let's see if we can get you printing again! also let me know if this is the display you're working with...by 3dGriff - General
I have an E3d v6 with an all metal (nothing but good things to say) also run several MK8 direct drives with all metal thermal breaks. Some of this has been previously mentioned, however, I would like to comment on some things I’ve found in my testing. It seems that with a clone (China sourced or otherwise) the focus seems to be on the interior throat of the break not being well polished. Althoby 3dGriff - General
Take a look at this.. I hope this helpsby 3dGriff - General
Just a thought, I have built a few Folger kits and I had a similar issue with one (of 5) of the builds. In this case the solution was a new RAMPS board. If you have a spare RAMPS I would try that as a troubleshooting step. In my case this solved it and I didn’t do a lot of additional troubleshooting after I solved the issue with the new board. Hope this is helpful in some way.by 3dGriff - General