CNC machines (including FDM 3D printers) always have to be homed before they can work out where they are. Because, they don't know where the machine tool (print head on that sort of printer) starts off being when the machine is turned on. So, they always have to home. When doing an initial home, it's quite normal for an endstop not to trigger (make sure the switch is working) and also isn't setby DragonFire - General
Maybe it's REALLY subtle... ... Dust or debris is more likely to accumulate in the pot trimmer for setting the current. Which would increase the resistance, set a higher current than what it was when you put the printer to one side? That would affect all the steppers roughly equally, which is why they are all running hot. If you give each trim pot a little squirt of WD40 switch cleaner, that mby DragonFire - General
Oh, and yeah, it could be the steppers are set a bit high, but they shouldn't really have changed since you last had it running? Regret I can't advise on tweaking, I have used both driver types but am switched what it was on the TMC, I run at .86 on the A4988. Let's be honest here, ALL of your motors are due a service. Even if it doesn't fix, it's about time they had some internal TLC. EDIT: Aby DragonFire - General
Might be a failing breaing in that motor then. They do wear and seize eventually. Or, maybe you got some debris in there jamming it up. I'd unscrew it from the back and take a look. Generally needs a gentle metal tap to get the aluminium casing bits apart, bui it is all serviceable, and the bearings look identical to skate bearings to me A spray with a bit of PTFE lube might be all it needs,by DragonFire - General
Loose grub screw on the Bowden extruder?by DragonFire - General
My opinion - you've got a subtle extruder problem. The maths start off good, but you got slight over extrusion on each layer, and eventually you get no space to extrude. Or, the filament has random tangles in it, but tangles are usually pretty obvious so probably not that. Or, maybe it's just the filament being a bit wide in places. That causes the overextrusion, jam, and subsequent print failuby DragonFire - General
The thing with a "best by" date is that it's always a minimum. It is not in Corporate Interest to make them accurate and reduce demand for a product. Out of UV light, ABS can last for hundreds of years. The GTP is rarely a problem, unless it's been stored over an engine block or somewhere else that's constantly over 100 centigrade. EDIT: I misread your post. I think I need some new spectacles.by DragonFire - General
Probably fine, if it's been kept covered up. UV light can degrade ABS, but water typically not a problem. It doesn't absorb water much if at all. It depends what you mean by "unopened", it might be a little dusty. You can get dust wipes as printable parts. PLA and other filaments do absorb water.by DragonFire - General
I have no idea TBH, Z has the most mass to carry, if one side is driving most mass then it will stall easier. I found that setting low acceleration and movement speeds on a Prusa style gave most consistent prints, and tuning Z led to a tiny decrease in print times compared to x and y improvementsby DragonFire - General
Odd thing with the new steppers not working... but the f4ault is from the Pi Host not being able to keep up? I had heard that some TMC drivers dont like working at 12V but you did say you had 2V so cant be that end? Anyway, if you got it printing fast enough you are doing cooler upgrades, you are doing pretty good I would say.by DragonFire - General
IIRC, after a simple delta calibrate, it's pretty normal for the printer to stop in the last "probe" position. A home and a Save Config should change the end of the config files with some additions done by the simple calibrate. I think you are pretty close to getting the extruder tuned to give the right amount of plastic, and after that you can try doing some prints. After that doesn't go veryby DragonFire - General
Quoteleadinglights ....Another one is that selecting SD card on the LCD control panel results in the Pi freezing up. Mike Yeah, in general you don't use the SD card part of the printer control panel when you upgrade. You have to do everything to start a print on the Pi side. BUT, having that control panel is really really handy when you want to fine tune the aforementioned z offset. It seems lby DragonFire - General
The reasonance compensation is like the final tweak really. You can either print a model to do that or use acceleration meters to measure it "live". Although I suspect that latter one might not be on an option with 2B as your host. The model method does give you an idea of what your maximum acceleration is for resonance free printing anyway. My advice in general when Klipperizing a Delta;- 1)by DragonFire - General
One possible explanation is that the printer is demanding more power than the power supply can deliver. A related problem can be a part is getting too hot, and demanding more power to operate than is available. Cooling for the control board is a good idea, as the stepper motor drivers generally kick out a lot of heat (hence the heatsinks generally put on them). They can generally run warm, but,by DragonFire - General
Well, after checking the Github generic Ramps config, it does indeed recommend;- ... serial: /dev/ttyACM0 ... So I'm guessing it boils down to later controllers implement something more USB like, wheras an Arduino Mega implements a 5V serial port which can be connected to a usb port but lacks some of the usb protocol built into more recent printer controller boards. Fried MCU. I've done thaby DragonFire - General
I didn't have quite that problem. At least, I didn't have it after I'd flashed the controller properly. You might find the default Kossel config helpful, for the Anycubic. Controller is like 99% Mega2560 / Ramps compatible. The serial port ID depends partly on what else is plugged into the host. For instance some people apply power over USB. Also can be an issue if you change which port you coby DragonFire - General
It took me about a year to get Klipper going on my Delta satisfactorily. Marlin just wasn't working out. Am not convinced a 2B has enough computing power to be a consistent host, but I guess it will at least let you try. Depends partly on how you are running Klipper and what front end you have. Rule of thumb, you should be able to get 500mm/s movement speed out of the thing with a mega2560 or eby DragonFire - General
You really better off asking on a Creality forum. You're issue probably that the gearing means you need more steps per mm (Marlin) or a decrease in Rotation Distance (Reprap/Klipper) on the Extruder motor to get the correct amount of plastic.by DragonFire - General
Pretty good diagrams in the manual for wiring up power, power ground, STEP, DIR, ENABLE and logic ground (latter 4 would go to the socket for a driver on the skr 2). However, I cannot guarantee it will work. Even if it does, the clock on those drivers is 15KHz. Pretty slow compared to... well, anything else I feel.by DragonFire - General
Line 965 in your config.h You need a pull up for a probe usually. It is inverted a few lines later, for logic. (Zero = triggered, positive pulled up voltage = not triggered). That may or may not be correct.by DragonFire - Delta Machines
It is not easy to find new hardware that Octoprint will not run on. Memory 512MB or more, CPU speed 1GHz or more, version of Debian Linux that you can install.by DragonFire - General
AFAIK Flashforge printers usually put origin, 0,0 coordinate, in the center of the bed rather than a corner. You may find setting Cura to have a round bed of say 250mm diameter gets the orientation of prints correct, although then you have to work out when your prints will miss the edge of the bed. Every other printer that has a square or rectangular bed puts the origin at a corner. Which is whby DragonFire - General
My delta very happy on 8 bit board and Klipper on a Pi. Way more accurate than Marlin. EDIT: 4.2.7 is a it vague as a board description, I think Crealityspeak for "supplied as upgrade" rather than specific hardware?by DragonFire - Delta Machines
ERM... 804 only rated for 3.6V operation. 801-5 only rated for 12V operation.by DragonFire - Delta Machines
I would have thought, with a fixed rate of flow, your printing move speed would depend on what layer height you set.by DragonFire - General
... Is it best practice to limit the duty cycle and fit fuses on both the live and neutral connections? I'm thinking, if the controller goes fully open due to failure, or there either cable gets shorted to something, either fuse should blow and stop any further damage / heating. I was also thinking, hmm,. recycled cooker hob... ideal for Deltas. Probably OK with square build plate too.by DragonFire - General
64 for a 2209 has been reported to me as a typical value. What could have happened is your movement on the stepper got a lot stiffer for some reason. Fluff on the belt maybe, or caught on a pulley wheel. You could try swapping driver to make sure it isnt an issue on the 2209.by DragonFire - General
Very likely to be cheapest kind of sensor EPCOS 100K B57560G104F To be certain, you could measure resistance at ambient, and compare with temperature at boiling point, and compare to official resistance charts of thermistor types.by DragonFire - General
I could never get the Huxley to print anything over 1 inch tall. Never could work out why. Klipper firmware will fit on a 1284. But then you'd have to get a Pi or another Linux host to do the actual calculation. EDIT: Few links would help. Here's a generic config for a Melzi board, will need tweaks for the printer measurements. Note that if the 1284 has an old bootloader on it, it will need aby DragonFire - General