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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Repetier Host cannot see printer - 8 years ago
I'm not familiar with Mac but occasionally I have to go to the "server" tab at the top and click the "stop local server" option before I can connect to the printer. I don't know why it sometimes starts the local server but when I can't connect its almost always why.by Duckmang - Reprappers
Re: Too much adhesion to bed? - 8 years ago
So I switched out the yellow tape. It did make a difference. It was a bit more difficult to get the first layer to stick, but once I did the print came out ok and was easier to get off the bed. Still a bit stubborn but not to the point of being worried about breaking or damaging something. I'm not crazy about going to glass. I've got this printer pretty well braced and can push the speed ofby Duckmang - Printing
Re: Leaking hotend? - 8 years ago
"Too much capacitance" I like the analogy.by Duckmang - Reprappers
Re: Too much adhesion to bed? - 8 years ago
I haven't. The printer came with a crappy roll of beige tape that I round filed soon after. I grabbed the only other tape I had, which is the yellow stuff. I have had a few prints where I've literally had to scrape tape remnants off the print so maybe there is some bonding. Next time I'm at the hardware store I'll pick up a roll of the blue stuff and compare how prints stick.by Duckmang - Printing
Switch box for power supply. - 8 years ago
I've been content to just plug and unplug my power supply to power up / down my printer but cleaning out a forgotten shelf yesterday turned up a nice rocker switch. After a few minutes in FreeCAD I had a box drawn up for it. The switch sits in a 22 x 38 mm opening and a 50mm cube will just hold the switch, wires, and connectors. The back cover is recessed and requires a smidge of sanding for aby Duckmang - Look what I made!
Re: Leaking hotend? - 8 years ago
I can tell you that on my setup the heat exchanger is literally right next to the heater cartridge and nozzle. Your setup looks to have about 10-15mm between the heater and heat exchanger. I can see that whole section getting hot enough to melt filament making it available to oozing. If there is any way to get the heater / nozzle closer to the heat exchanger it will probably help. Here's a piby Duckmang - Reprappers
Re: Too much adhesion to bed? - 8 years ago
I'm printing right on the taped bed. Little difficult to put the whole printer in the freezer and a pretty huge pain in the butt to disassemble the bed from the printer. May have to try to take the printer outside on a super cold day. It was 7 degrees F for the high here yesterday. If it actually helps then maybe I'll try to come up with a detachable bed surface.by Duckmang - Printing
Too much adhesion to bed? - 8 years ago
I've got an flsun with an MK3 heated bed. I cover it with yellow 3M painter's tape. I have a problem in that prints stick to it too well. I feel like I am apt to damage the bed prying up stubborn prints. I'm printing PLA. Small items I can deliver a sharp whack and knock them loose but anything with more than about 1 square inch stuck to the bed becomes a real challenge. Especially if the pby Duckmang - Printing
Re: Leaking hotend? - 8 years ago
I print PLA with a Bowden setup with my flsun Cartesian and I'm not experiencing oozing anywhere near the degree described here. I'm just a newbie myself but I would think that this problem isn't normal and isn't something to just be lived with. My experience is about 10mm of ooze at extruded diameter, not filament diameter, as it warms up to temp before a print start. My first ASSumption is tby Duckmang - Reprappers
Re: 1.75mm Excelvan Filament - 8 years ago
I notice that the seller on EbAY had only full rolls of white PLA. I went ahead and bought a couple of 1/2 and 1/2 rolls. I had really good results with the light green. Disclaimer, my nozzle temp isn't calibrated but I got the best results were when I bumped up my extruder temp to 240C. That light green stuff just printed awesome. The other half of the roll is white and it doesn't print neaby Duckmang - General
Re: FLSUN I3 kit review - 8 years ago
I know linear bearings aren't supposed to rotate, but considering how slow the Z screws actually rotate I see them performing more as a guide than a bearing. If it does give issues I may eventually swap them for bronze. These were left over after swapping the Z bearings to 45mm units. I did just use them on the ACME rod. Its nominal OD is 8mm and the linear bearing moved across it quite wellby Duckmang - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: FLSUN I3 kit review - 8 years ago
I've been busy with mine, today. I noticed that the X belt was loose again and found that the carriage is stressed with the grain to lock the upper X rod and it cracked letting it loose. Back to one of my other ideas, a clamp that sits on the upper X rod by the left carriage that holds the rod tight in the right carriage. I printed up the part, disassembled X and Z enough to get it installed aby Duckmang - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: FLSUN I3 kit review - 8 years ago
I had originally built mine on a glass table top and like you tightened everything lying flat upon it. I just don't see how the angle brackets can keep it that way, and my experience is that they don't. Anyone building this kit should plan to do something similar to myself or the great suggestion of angle brackets. I don't think there is any significant deflection in the tower while printingby Duckmang - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: FLSUN I3 kit review - 8 years ago
As a 3D newbie I read as much as I can about the subject and I see a fair bit of "cheap kit" bashing. So I felt compelled to try to tweak and adjust my flsun as best possible. My biggest concern being the Y axis. I felt like I had to level the bed too often. Looking into the causes I noted that the Y axis rests on the front and rear extrusions. I also noted that depending on which corner youby Duckmang - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: FLSUN I3 kit review - 8 years ago
I went ahead and used some red RTV to help hold the heater in the hot end. It seems to have a double effect, holding the cartridge and the set screw both. Its had about 25-30 hours on it so far and seems to be holding up well. I've been checking it after every few hours and nothing is moving but this check will remain part of the routine. I upgraded the power supply this week. 20$ on ebay wiby Duckmang - Extruded Aluminum Frames
How to enable software control for extruder fan in G code? - 8 years ago
Cheers. I've got an FLSUN machine that has a BT7272A board running marlin. I recently switched over to a software controlled fan for the extruder. It works but I have to manually turn it on in the manual settings. I'm pretty sure there is a G code to turn it on and off but I'm too much of a newbie to know what it is or how to search for it. I'm mainly using Slic3r and I see the options for sby Duckmang - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Grub/set screw in drive gear keeps getting loose. - 8 years ago
Loctite blue is made for threads that may have to eventually be disassembled. I used it on my extruder gear when I recently assembled my printer because the gear seemed a little loose on the shaft and the grub screw was dinky at best. Working great. Loctite red is made for things like gears on shafts and threads that are not intended to come apart. It probably is the best choice here. Just mby Duckmang - General
Re: FLSUN I3 kit review - 8 years ago
I was actually using a heat transfer paste in the heater's bore. Its one of the reasons I didn't want to just go for RTV. I assume that the RTV will have far inferior heat transfer characteristics. Of course having the heat transfer immediately into my print when the cartridge comes loose is also not ideal. I like the circlip idea. I have a pretty good metal fab shop at home. My equipment iby Duckmang - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: FLSUN I3 kit review - 8 years ago
I've got my first real complaint with this printer. The set screw that holds the heater cartridge in the hot end doesn't reliably do its job. I've had the cartridge come out twice. The first time I noticed that Repetier host was pausing to heat the extruder. It normally doesn't do that so I investigated and found the cartridge dangling and glowing red hot in the middle of a test print!!!! Iby Duckmang - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: FLSUN I3 kit review - 8 years ago
First post. I recently bought this kit. This is my first 3d printer, though I did help a buddy build a delta printer about 2 years ago. Our old ladies had a falling out so I never got to see it print and finally decided to build my own. I liked the price point and really wanted a metal frame. It arrived last Thursday and I spent 5 hrs that night assembling and another 4.5 hrs Friday night . Iby Duckmang - Extruded Aluminum Frames