I just had to get a new bit as the old one was bubbling off the glass. It had been on there fine for 1.5 years so no idea why I'd then get bubbles under it.by gadgetmind - General
PrintBite is easy to fit to glass and bubbles aren't really an issue if you take care. I print PLA, PETG, ABS and TPU straight onto it and all it takes to clean it is window cleaner or a wipe with acetone. Level is important, but that's always the case.by gadgetmind - General
An hour? I've fitted two bits of PB and both times took only 10 mins or so to apply and then whatever the recommended heat cycle is. To clean, I wipe with acetone when the bed is cold. To check level, I have my own level test (it's on thingiverse under same username) and if these circles all print right, then I know the bed is level from edge to edge. I won't claim that I still don't see lifby gadgetmind - General
I initially struggled with ABS on PB as my i3 Plus had an over-temp cut out at 110C. Once I reflashed it so I could hit 115C, it's been printing ABS very well. Upgrading to a Micro Swiss hot end also helped as it cured the occasional under extrusion that was causing cracks in prints. I haven't seen any bubbles but my PB was attached to very clean glass - might your glass have had anything on theby gadgetmind - General
FWIW, I print TPU directly only an ambient (16C-20C) bed with no adhesion issues. Level needs to be spot on, keep it very slow (20mm/s 1st layer), and I use 210C extruder for 1st layer. I haven't tried TPE.by gadgetmind - General
What temps are people using for TPU on PrintBite?by gadgetmind - General
Yes, 85C to 90C seems to have PETG sticking nicely. I clean with Windex and (occasionally) acetone.by gadgetmind - General
My first layer is going down nicely, so it's really down to me getting temperature and fan right. I need fan for bridging but turning it on too early causes the print to break free. I'll try hotter bed as this worked well for ABS (I need 115C) but for PLA dropping bed temp to 60C was critical.by gadgetmind - General
Can people share their PETG extruder and bad temps? I tried 225/70 and had some parts come free with bad curling. I dropped bed to 65C (dropping from 65C to 60C eliminated curling with PLA for me) and it was worse, so I tried 235/75C and it's a little better but far from perfect. Fan is off for 1st 15 layers and then slowly climbs to 50% so not a lot of cooling. 1st layer adhesion is spot on bby gadgetmind - General
I sometimes see some PLA "ripping free" of my PrintBite on 1st layer detail despite a different PLA printing fine details OK. I'm currently at 210/60 - is this sweetspot likely to be with higher extruder temperatures of lower?by gadgetmind - General
I've got some transparent PLA that needs 230C to stick to PrintBite and some other PLA that's fine at 200C. More bed temperature also helps, but once past 65C I start seeing corner curling. Yes, height is critical and I now have my own level test that's 9 discs with holes in them printed in a 3x3 grid and only one layer thick. This lets me quickly check and tweak level and then I use my adjustabby gadgetmind - General
OK, I was still getting slight curl on some sharp corners with bed at 65C so am now at 60C. No loss of adhesion and perfectly sharp corners. 210C nozzle, 60C bed for PLA is spot on for me and I'm very happy with the results. Has anyone got any advice of PETG? I'm currently trying 220C/80C as recommended elsewhere, and am getting OK adhesion, but small details are ripping off on 1st layer. Coolinby gadgetmind - General
Nope, no oil, but I was toying with the idea. Maybe not! My printer is in an enclosure too, so nothing from the environment worth mentioning.by gadgetmind - General
Now getting great results with PrintBite. I've dropped bed to 65C as I was still getting some curling at corners at 70C and am printing bottom layer at 210C for PLA. BTW, I'm finding I do need to clean with acetone every few prints. I just printed a couple of parts that came out fine, went to do two more from same gcode without changing anything, and circles on the bottom layer tugged free. Iby gadgetmind - General
I'm up and running again with many thanks to Mutley3D for service well above and beyond what can be expected. This really is a product that you can buy and be certain of great support and excellent service. I'm not going to throw my original bit of glass away, but it's so bent that it'll probably fly back to me!by gadgetmind - General
Thanks. Printing at the edge of the bed where I can be sure of level and dropping bed to 70C (so probably 65C in reality) has got me printing again with no curl. Working theory: I upped bed to 80C to see if I could get better adhesion but issue was bed low in middle due to non-flat glass. Extra heat closed gap but meant that PLA was still flexible and stress from layers above ripped it free. Mby gadgetmind - General
My borosilcate glass isn't flat. When gapped to 0.05mm at the two edges, a 0.1mm feeler passes easily in the middle. When I put in on flat granite it rocks, and with a stright 8mm rod across it, the bend is clear. I've ordered a new bit - what's involved in moving the PrintBite across?by gadgetmind - General
Curling again at 225/85 with bed measuring 75C at corners of object during and after print aborted. Fan up to 80% at 2mm. It's really odd as I did a lot of prints yesterday in various colours with no issues including three with this same filament. The 1st layer could maybe be squished into the bed a little more but instructions say to gap a little larger with PB and even small circles etc on myby gadgetmind - General
Z stop fine and first layers look to go down true even for fine detail. I watched 1st 5 layers go down on an overnight print and they looked beautiful. I did 5 skirts and didn't go to full fan until 2mm, but after I retired, it's curled up from the edges and separated from bed. I'm going to crank the bed to 85C (at thermistor) and try printing just one of the three parts. If it still struggles,by gadgetmind - General
Yeah, maybe even less fan as got some curling going on. Two prints, back-to-back, exactly the same gcode, one perfect and one a total loss to curling off the bed. What's that all about?by gadgetmind - General
OK, I've seen a bit more curling and had kicked off a print with 0% fan first layer going up to 100% by 0.8mm before reading your message. I'm also trying 5 skirts at 0.5mm. As for a good job, yes, and the cases of curling I've had have all been on parts where it doesn't matter and those I needed to look great on the bottom look great! Dunno if you'll be able to see this but it's a printed "conby gadgetmind - General
I'm doing 215C and 0% fan for 0.2mm 1st layer and then 205C and 100% fan for all other layers regardless of thickness of other layers. I'm sure I'll tweak later. I tried the skirt cum brim approach on a difficult part and it didn't seem to help but I didn't have temperatures right then so I'll try again. I also tried heat soaking bed for a while, but as I say, other issues clouded matters. Witby gadgetmind - General
I've joined this forum just for this thread! I've been printing PLA on PrintBite for just under a week and am happy so far. I started off with some green PLA that I know needs high temperatures and it stuck great at 225/70. I then used some black PLA that I use a lot at 195C on stock bed and printed two items at 210C and 205C and was happy with them. I then had a levelling disaster when tryingby gadgetmind - General