Yup, I did put some kapton because the kapton height is very small (and the insulation is good) But you can use whatever tape you want. The main problem is that strippinf the tape will be VERY hard. with kapton, I was able to drill some nice holes in the piezo... drilled piezoby tech-raton - General
Yes, mine is -0.03 Your hotend is probing, so the zoffset is minimum. The 0.04 is your flexibility and the displacement to trigger. It can be very small.by tech-raton - General
I dunno... I have used some old tools at school (10 years ago). Some tools had even some CCCP markings...by tech-raton - General
The probe of a Coordinate-measuring machine works with 3 sensors and they are on the XY plane. If one sensor disconnects, the probe triggers. With a single drilled piezo, It should work too. but I would do is differently. 3 piezo at 60° on the XZ plane. It should increase sensitivity for probing in the XY plane.by tech-raton - General
Yes, I printed with it... The full bed is correct without mesh levelling... I agree with the variations, that's why I told you that I can't really measure the repeatability.by tech-raton - General
ok, So I create a Macro with: g30 S-1 G1 Z3 G30 S-1 G1 Z3 I think it's repeatable, no? Or maybe there's something wrong with my macro... Quote 16:57:40 Stopped at height -0.035 mm 16:57:38 Stopped at height -0.035 mm 16:57:37 Stopped at height -0.035 mm 16:57:36 Stopped at height -0.035 mm 16:57:35 Stopped at height -0.035 mm 16:57:34 Stopped at height -0.035 mm 16:57:33 Stopped at height -0.by tech-raton - General
I can't really mesure the repeatability... mechanically, my printer isn't optimum. But, if you wan't, I can give you the files to test it... I reduced the quality to be able to send it via the forum. tech-ratonby tech-raton - General
I had some trigger problems... so, based on your experience, I put back the PCB on the effector. And I changed my piezo mount... Now there are 3 piezo15 between the hotend and the effector... And it works nicely...by tech-raton - General
For a standard CHC M3 screw, the Hexa screwdriver would be 2.5. I talk about standard CHC... the screws that you'll find in any printer kit... If your screws are BHC, or FHC, you'll need a 2.0 screw driver. But I've never seen BHC or FHC screws in a kit. It might be, uh ! but I didn't see... But buy a kit of allen keys. It's a shame to stop a project for a 2mm allen key or something likeby tech-raton - General
flush cutters - cost: low and usability: very high. --- To cut the zipties or filament... (and avoid the scars made by the last small bit of ziptie that can't be cut with a normal cutter.. ahhh, memories...) heatshrink tubings - cost: low usability: medium sheathing - cost: low usability: low look: very nice. --- Only for a better looking printer. aby tech-raton - General
I tried with a long cable (2m) and I worked. I'll be using a shorter cable (1m so it should be ok.) My cable to the effector contains 8 wires Now 4 for the heater 2 for the thermistor 2 for the piezo disk. It should be ok, then. Before, it contained 11 wires 2 for the heater 2 for the thermistor 2 for the heatsink fan 2 for the parts fan 3 for the IR probe. Thank you for your time, it'sby tech-raton - General
I listened to your advice... I put some kapton tape around the piezo. I drilled it (the kapton allows you to reduce the destruction of the PZT) If you're trying to drill something fragile, put some tape on it. It's a common tip from fiberglass polyester industry. I slide the disk between the heatsink and the effector, and Voilà It worked nicely ! Thank you for this simple and easy way to makby tech-raton - General
QuoteMoriquendi Best of luck but I think you'll have difficulty drilling four holes in the ceramic of a 27mm piezo. If you can't get it to work you might try using smaller, undrilled, piezos glued to a sheet of some kind with holes drilled in the sheet. I've had success with 10.5 and 12mm piezos glued or soldered to pcbs. Idris So I was able to drill the 4 holes trought 27mm piezo... But I haby tech-raton - General
Wow thank you all for these quick answers. So I'll drill my 27mm diam piezo quickly. my 4 holes will remain inside the piezo, so It should be nice.by tech-raton - General
Hello, I've got a couple question about drilling piezo disks. QuoteRKS7204 Drilled a lot of holes, cut of the edges, printed the 2 pieces .... I plan to drill 4 holes in piezo disks 1 in the center and 3 on the sides to accomodate my mount (my mount) Is this possible? What should be considered?by tech-raton - General
My graph was not explicit enough (it was a cut view...) hehehe, i'll change it. Just having the heatbreak through a tube would be enough. No?by tech-raton - General
The MG08 was made to over-kill... For the tubes, the number of tubes depend of the pump's flowrate. We could simply use a tube like that: the heatbreak (vertical) goes trough the tube. (horizontal) With a sufficient flowrate, this solution is possible.by tech-raton - General
I agree with the "shortest path logic" But the hotter liquid will be on the upper side of the heatsink, no? and the heat will be transmitted to the whole liquid? I was looking at a way to make it "maze like" with cold solder to block the path and dremel to drill some holes. But because the watercooling is overkill, i can live with an unoptimized part. The second thing is the load loss. I'll uby tech-raton - General
The main advantage is the noise. And I wanted to do it... I'm using a Duetwifi to reduce the noise too. Water cooling is not necessarily required, you can use a fan. with an heated enclosure, you'll need a fan a little bit more powerful but it's will be noisier. My version is smaller than the standard E3DV6. also, it's easy to remove. It's just another way of cool your heatsink. I'm not saby tech-raton - General
After reading a lot of informations there: I remixed all these good ideas to create my own watercooling block. The prototype was made without a lathe. What you need: •A E3DV6 heatsink (or a clone…). •Some cold solder joint. •A B20 jacket ( 5 euros on Ebay…). •A M7 bolt (kinda hard to find… In france, you’ll find some in old hinges. •A 2,5 drill bit and a M3 taper. •A lathe (or a chby tech-raton - General
Yup ! you're right, but for a Kossel Effector, it was easier for me to keep a round heatsink...by tech-raton - General
Long time lurker, first time poster... I must admit, I don't like the groovemount. For me, it's too big and it add 20mm to the hotend. So I found another way to attach the hotend to my effector without the groovemount... The Deltaprintr Hotend uses this and I think it's effective. You'll need a saw, a drill, a 2,5mm drill bit and a M3 taper. You'll need a jig like this, too: guide.stl Firstby tech-raton - General