Show all posts by user

Re: Mosquito hot end...yes or no? - 4 years ago

Hands down, The Mosquito / Bondtech BMG combo is superior. I use this exclusively for printing PETG. This combo has solved all my stringing problems with PETG. I print tooling and parts with PETG and now really enjoy the quality that I get. The precision of the Bondtech BMG is just what was needed for accurate extrusion and the Mosquito hot end has simple one handed nozzle swap out's using their

by G3DBuilder - General

Re: Starting ormerod print/setup - 4 years ago

Your Cube has some stringing, 200C seems a little hot for PLA. Try turning your extrusion temp down to 170 -180C. Some PLA's can print at 200C+ and some I have had to turn down to 160C. If this is a Bowden setup you should have plenty of retraction, but not too much as you will pull the molten filament up into the cold zone where it will solidify and jam. For a direct drive Extruder I usually

by G3DBuilder - Printing

Re: Marlin 2.0.5.3 "err: EEPROM Version" on ReArm - 4 years ago

I guess I Fixed this issue, I am not sure why. I tried an EEPROM Initialize, then a re-boot but the problem remains. Next I inserted an SD Card into the RRD Full Graphics Display and then removed it. Problem went away and display is normal. I am not sure what the SD Card has to do with the EEPROM.

by G3DBuilder - Firmware - Marlin

Marlin 2.0.5.3 "err: EEPROM Version" on ReArm - 4 years ago

Had a successful upload of Marlin 2.0.5.3 to a ReArm CPU, However I am now getting "err: EEPROM Version" Did an M502 and then an M500, but error persists. This is a new install not an update. Anybody have this issue? FIX? Thanks for the assistance.

by G3DBuilder - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Marlin 2.0.5.3 Update gives "err: EEprom Version" - 4 years ago

Great, Thanks that worked.

by G3DBuilder - Firmware - Marlin

Marlin 2.0.5.3 Update gives "err: EEprom Version" - 4 years ago

Just did the update from v 2.0.3 to 2.0.5.3 on an arduino mega and am now getting this message on the LCD err:EEPROM Version anybody know what this means? no problems with compile and upload. going back to 2.0.3 until I can solve this. Thanks,

by G3DBuilder - Firmware - Marlin

Re: What's the canonical extruder now? - 4 years ago

MatterHackers sells a Bondtech / Slice Engineering Mosquito combo. the Mosquito hot end is all metal and U can change the nozzle with just one hand. the Mosquito hot end simply bolts to the BMG extruder as the BMG is specifically designed for the Mosquito hot end (No rotational problems). The BMG extruder appears to be superior to any thing I have come across, because of the weight and compactn

by G3DBuilder - General

Re: Which is better-Nano Smart Stepper or MKS Servo42? - 4 years ago

Bill, I just received 3 of the Smart Steppers from MIsfit Tech. How do you like them? are the stepper motors fairly quiet when printing? I really like them so far, except I have to run extra wiring. I believe I will have to wire the enable pin to the unit from the ramps board, otherwise the steppers will not shut off when the print job completes, correct?? Tired of loosing steps on long pri

by G3DBuilder - General

Re: Spidery PETG and globbing - 4 years ago

I print a lot of PETG. PETG requires exact extrusion, and the only way I was able to print it good was to dump the MK8 direct drive extruder and replace it with a Bondtech dual drive combined with Slice Engineering's Mosquito hot end. What a difference this made. My PETG prints are now stringless, however I still have slight globbing but I have been tuning that out also. This is what made a dif

by G3DBuilder - Printing

Re: DRV8825 Current Limiting - 5 years ago

Stepper motors usually have a voltage rating / phase. you can use that to calculate a starting place for the approximate max current that they can handle without burning up. For example if your stepper is rated for 2.8V / Phase running them with 12v @ 1.5A will probably smoke it. I usually calculate the Power (Watts) to find out how much current my stepper can take at higher voltages, for a sta

by G3DBuilder - RAMPS Electronics

Re: Thermal Compound in E3D v6 - 5 years ago

Slice Engineering (mosquito Hot End) sells "Boron Nitride" for their high temp hot ends $9.95

by G3DBuilder - General

Re: Marlin 2.0 BugFix on ReArm controller - 5 years ago

OK, Did some more research, The text file that Panucatt is referring to may be for Smoothie Ware only. (never used it) I bet they "Panucatt" will come back with the same answer. Anyway good info, it has been an interesting learning experience.

by G3DBuilder - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Marlin 2.0 BugFix on ReArm controller - 5 years ago

So this is what's written on Panucatt's Web Site; "Easy configuration using a text file on SD card, no need to upload firmware every settings change." I don't know what text file they are referring to then. I have sent Panucatt a ticket to ask them the same question. Thanks,

by G3DBuilder - Firmware - Marlin

Marlin 2.0 BugFix on ReArm controller - 5 years ago

I Have successfully compiled Marlin 2.0 BugFix to the MicroSD on the ReArm controller using Platform IO ( interestingly not real easy) although I now have a Firmware.cur file and the ReArm board responds to M commands. My question is; The documentation states that the configuration.h and configuration_adv.h can be modified without recompiling. Do I Just need to copy both *.h files to the sd me

by G3DBuilder - Firmware - Marlin

Marlin 2.0 Bug Fix X,Y and Z steps/mm only settable to nearest tenth. - 5 years ago

Marlin 2.0 Bug Fix and at mega 2560 r3 with ramps 1.4 and Rep Rap disc smart controller. I went to adjust the steps/mm for the X, Y and Z axis, but Marlin 2.0 only lets me set it to the nearest tenth. With Marlin 1.1.9 I was able to set this to the nearest hundredth. (IE... 100.0 for Marlin 2.0 and 100.00 for Marlin 1.1.9) I cant seem to find anywhere to change this to match the Marlin 1.1.9

by G3DBuilder - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Rumba controller board - 5 years ago

The NEMA 23 should only require about 600ma current if driven @12V. If you set the current limit on the DRV8825 for 2 amps you will burn up the stepper and the driver. As far as the NEMA 17's they should only require about 400ma @ 12 V the 3 amp rating on the NEMA 23 is for 2.2V not 12V. Steppers are usually driven an higher voltages than the rated voltage. I always calculate the ballpark cur

by G3DBuilder - Reprappers

Re: petg and worries about my bed - 5 years ago

If the Poly is heated too much the part may be difficult to remove. My best suggestion is to just try it. Printing PLA and PETG on a cold bed is how most folks print. Having a heated bed does not really do anything for warping on PLA or PETG, an enclosure is best. My Scratch Built printer does not have a heated bed. Anyway just trying to make it easier for you to print PETG. I am just relatin

by G3DBuilder - Printing

Re: petg and worries about my bed - 5 years ago

I am not sure why everyone wants to use Borosilicate Glass and heat to print PETG on. The glass does not bend very well and PETG does not require a heated bed. I have been printing PETG on Polycarbonate (.150" or 3.8mm) sheet for about a year now with addictive results. Simply cut a piece of Polycarbonate to fit your bed and secure with the same clips used to hold the glass in place. I scuff t

by G3DBuilder - Printing

Re: Extruder woes (not extruding correct amount under pressure) - 5 years ago

I had a similar problem today. I replaced the nozzle (.4mm) Direct drive Mk8 Extruder. Pushing the filament through by hand I noticed slight puffing of the extruded filament. My experience tells me that puffing filament has some moisture in it. Slight moisture can cause steaming inside the nozzle and cause the pressure to build up and as the filament is pushed through, and the pressure is reliev

by G3DBuilder - Printing

Re: Anycubic Ultrabase adhesion issues - 5 years ago

If you throw everything out, Blue Painters Tape, Ultrabase,Borosilicate Glass, hair spray etc....... and cut a piece of 1/8" Lexan to fit your bed, scuff it up with 3M scrubbie, you can print PLA warp free with a bed temp of 35C. clamp the Lexan to the aluminum base with paper clasp's. Print directly on the surface with no special treatment. When the print is complete simply remove the Lexan and

by G3DBuilder - Printing

Re: Build I3 prusa 300x300x300 - 6 years ago

If you like to Build please check out the 300 X 300 X 300 Printer I designed from scratch, It is a cabinet type Cartesian printer. I have complete plans, templates parts list and the STL's available for download on Pinshape Use the keyword G3DBuilder If you have a smaller printer you can print all the STL's for the larger printer. I have been using this printer for several months now and am extr

by G3DBuilder - Reprappers

Re: Stepper motors not responding - 6 years ago

Some of the Ramps boards will need a re-flow of the solder joints. I had the same issue with my Ramps 1.4 until I used a Loop and inspected all the solder joints. There were a lot of cold and incomplete solder joints. You should not have any issues driving the steppers and they should be smooth. even without being homed.

by G3DBuilder - Reprappers

Re: Flexible build plate suggestions - 6 years ago

Makrolon SL (polycarbonate with UV coating)) Scuff it up with some 3m scotch brite and clean with alcohol. Do Not Heat more that 39C (will permanently bond with too much heat) Comes in 3mm (1/8") and is very flexible. NO Warp.

by G3DBuilder - General