I am looking for a recommendation of someone in the UK who could do some decent quality laser cut parts in 4 and 3 mm thick aluminium for a reasonable price. Not a huge job few brackets and parts of XY of a corexy printer. I think laser cutting is the best option. Can you point me in the direction of someone that could help?by witor - General
Seckit go2 (a highly praised printer by many reviewers) uses planetary gears. what do you think about this solution. I know that it might not prevent heavy bed from falling, but do you think that this kind of gears are good enough to move bed without causing banding. Can backslash be a problem or is gravity going to take care of that?by witor - CoreXY Machines
Thank you for your response. How to verify if i have a good ground? Wires have to go to the hot end in one bunch. How to make 3D touch wires to be away from motor and fan wires?by witor - Firmware - Marlin
Could someone clarify what is the correct ENDSTOPPULLUPS Marlin 2 settings for 3d touch? obewan said: Quoteobewan I dont think the 3dtouch needs the pullup resistor enabled as it uses a hall effect sensor. Try disabling it with // Enable pullup for all endstops to prevent a floating state //#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS #if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS) // Disable ENDSTOPPULLUPS to set pullups individuaby witor - Firmware - Marlin
Not too bad, about 7 pounds and some wasted time....by witor - General
Yep... That's why I went back to 8mm lead screwsby witor - General
Hope this might help someone.... To take my 3D touch off the printer I cut through the tape securing the wire. This allowed me to disconnect the connector on 3d touch. After putting everything back together my 3d Touch became very unreliable (probing failing very often). I think that the problem was linked to the poor connection after I plugged the connector back to 3d Touch. After plugging itby witor - General
I have learned my lesson an at least now I know that 8mm lead 4 starts lead screw is probably better for I3 style printer. Just to discuss the accuracy error. I think it can be assumed that after the whole rotation motor will return to the starting position. With 1.8 degree stepper and 8mm lead it takes 200 steps to move z axis by 8mm. If inaccuracy of a single step is let's say 0.2 degrees thenby witor - General
I was hoping that smaller lead will result in smaller error in z movement caused by inaccuracies in a single motor step angle. I mounted them the same way and following the same aliment procedure as for the longer lead. Shorter lead nuts were not particularly tight on the screws, but tighter than longer lead nuts. I think the reason why they did not work particularly well for me is the numberby witor - General
Just a little update. I switched to T8-2 lead screws and I don't see any benefits so far. I don't see any improvement of the print quality. Surprisingly they are harder to spin than 8mm lead screws and often make annoying grinding noise while spinning. I did align them as well as possible. Another think that I kind of miss is the ability to move z axis by hand. It is still possible but it takesby witor - General
After installing my 3D touch worked just fine, I didn't use it too much because shortly after installation I ran it into the bed and the plastic pin got bent. I bent it back and it appeared to be straight, but mesh bed leveling was failing quite often. I thought that the manged was not strong enough and that the pin was falling down so (I know. I am an idiot) I filed the top of the pin just a tinby witor - General
I think stiffness is the most important property of the material used to make x carriage. Temperature resistance might be next IF x carriage is exposed to higher temperatures (that's why I asked about temperature coming from V6 heat sink) . I am not going to use enclosure and I am not going to keep my printer in a hot car, so considering what everyone said so far in this thread I conclude that Pby witor - General
How hot is the air coming from E3d V6 heat sink? If it does not blow directly at the x carriage can the carriage be made of PLA? PLA is stiff, so i would prefer to use it I am just worried about it's temperature resistance. If you printed pieces of your printer in PLA I would love to hear about your experience.by witor - General
Anyone who has a cheap Chinese clone of V6 with what they claim to be 100 kOhm, beta25 = 3950 K, 4.7 kOhm pull-up thermistor might find this useful. I have calibrated my thermistor and the results are shown on the graph below. Blue line shows default Marlin thermistor_11.h values, orange line shows my results. As you can see at 200*C there was more than 10*C difference between temperature readby witor - General
So just to make things absolutely clear, In my case (I am using SKR 1.3) I need to divide ADC values reported by pronterface by four and then enter the result into thermistor_11.h, Is that correct? Do I have to have the same number of rows of ADC values and temperatures as in the original thermistor_11.h?by witor - General
Thank you. I asked here before I discovered marlin discord server.by witor - General
After considering all issues - current limitation, not being able to use just one wire for the ground and the fact that it is actually going to be quite difficult to physically attach the ribbon in a way so it is not bent too much and is not in the way I am giving up the idea of using ribbon to wire my hot end. When i rebuild my x axis I will just stick to the factory Anet A6 wiring method - justby witor - General
I believe I have 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup) thermistor but I am not actually sure what thermistor came with my hotend. After searching for a bit I found that I should most likely choose #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 11 // 11 : 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup) In Marlin 2. To test and calibrate the thermistor I have removed the nozzle and stuck thermocouple connected to multiby witor - General
I have just measured current drawn by the hot end heater. It is 2.1 A max. With 5 wires in the ribbon (each is 28 AWG) for current in and another 5 for current return should be enough. But I still have the main question. Can both GND wires of the BLtouch, GND of the part cooling fan and GND of the hotend fan be connected to the same point on SKR 1.3. If yes what would be the best place to connecby witor - General
I had the same problem. I solved it by mechanically linking the 2 lead screws with a timing belt. This is of course not ideal as stepper motors should not really be linked like this. Well I gave it a try and it worked quite well. i have replaced the main board now so I am able to run Marlin 2. with BLtouch so I will be able to perform auto z aliment if needed. 2mm pitch screws should make it neeby witor - General
Why a good machine will prefer a 8mm pitch?by witor - General
You are right. I just realised that I don’t actually need this little circuit board. I can just attach the socket to the X carriage and then solder all the wires (BLtouch, heater, thermistor etc…) to the pins of the socket. I know that twisted wires would be best, but I didn’t know that twisted ribbons actually existed. I have already bought the ribbon cable and I think I will go with it. In theby witor - General
To terminate the ribbon, I was planning to use this little bord which is really cheap with the connectors shown below. I am going to replace the socket with the latched one which should prevent the plugs from coming out. The current and the resistance of the wires is my main concern, but I thought that 4 wires in parallel should do the job. I guess I have to do more research on what is actuaby witor - General
I just got this ribbon cable: Mine is 26 ways 28 AWG has stranded cores and seems to be quite flexible. I am thinking about using it to wire the hotend, extruder, fans and BLtouch. From SKR 1.3 schematics as far as I can see I could use common ground as all ground connectors seem to be connected together on the board. Thermistor ground might be different as it is labelled 'GND analogue' not juby witor - General
I have a clone of V6. does anyone now where I can find adapter that would screw into the heat sink to convert this: into this: If adapter like this does not exist how do I go about attaching this heatsink and a teflon tube that goes inside it to BMG direct drive extruder? There is a big gap between the wals (thread) of the heatsink and the tube should I just leave it?by witor - General
Thanks I think I will go for T8-2 thenby witor - General
What sort of Z feed rate are you using? I am worried that T8-2 will be really slow which will make things like bed probing take ages.by witor - General
Most prusa I3 style printers use T8-8 (8mm lead) leadscrews. Would 2mm lead lead screw be beter? It ishould give even higher resolution of the z movement and X gantry would be less likely to fall under gravity and vibrations when not powered. Are there any disadvantages? Would z speed be painfully slow with 2mm lead lead screws?by witor - General
I have replaced my Anet A6 board with SKR1.3 and LV8729 extruder driver. Everything works great but my extruder struggles a bit tu push fillament and ocasionally skips steps. I have set current to about 0.8A. Extruder motor is not even getting worm. I can't find Anet A6 stepper specification, but I have found specks (below) for A8 (pre A6 model). It looks like motor could possibly witstand way moby witor - General
Thank you Dust After upgrading to the latest version of Marlin 2.0.5.3 and increasing the BLOCK_BUFFER_SIZE to 64 and SLOWDOWN divisor to 4 no more stuttering! whould there be any advantage of setting BLOCK_BUFFER_SIZE to 128? SKR 1.3 has enough memory to do it, the question is are there any benefits of doing so...by witor - Printing