Update: the IPA from previous post together with 96% ethanol are not good for glass cleaning (in my case). At the end I sourced another bottle of 70% alcohol from pharmacy. They told me it is 70% ethanol. I still don't know what's the catch, but I am glad I have liquid for perfect 1st layerby tabana - Printing
I am not an expert, but I have very reliable bed adhesion with quick wiping glass without removing it from printer. This way i need only 10 sec before each print and glass stays clean all the time. Anyway thank you for vinegar alternative which I will try definitely if I run out of working liquid I ordered this one to tryby tabana - Printing
Thank you Robert Now I need to source that golden liquidby tabana - Printing
My bad, I'm probably using wrong type of alcohol because mine is labeled as ethanol What is the difference for this purpose? I guess I was lucky with 1st bottleby tabana - Printing
You need to check gantry height in Cura machine settings. Part height must be lower than that value to succeed slicing. Not recommended, but you can enter higher number there, but have in mind that print order is important in that case.by tabana - Printing
I've been printing PLA on (60 C) bare glass for last 5 months. I'm cleaning glass between each print with 70% alcohol bought at pharmacy. I have ran out of this liquid and bought 96% one from another store. Cleaning with new liquid results in not sticking first layer . I'm not sure which substances are present in 70% alcohol, but obviously they are important in my case. I tried cleaning with winby tabana - Printing
Good example in my country: Those guys are printing visor holders for medical staff. I'm trying to contribute right now. In emergency situations I would ignore some rules especially if it is life saving decision. In every other situation I think it's best to leave that to experts. I am sure there are many other 3DP projects which can help and probably some of them I could join.by tabana - General
Does it happen on same layer height each time? Edit: I ment on stepper driver, not motor.by tabana - Printing
Is your machine enclosed? I think it could be motor driver overheating after long prints. Are you printing from SD card? For LCD issue you can try to shield cables with aluminium foil.by tabana - Printing
You can check moment of inertia for comparison. You can calculate sagging with those equations. Equations are not appropriate for real life examples because the load distribution is more complex. Also those equations refer to static load (not dynamic). I think for reprap it's the best to find good existing designs with similar dimensions and use it as reference. Numerical methods with dynamicby tabana - Extruded Aluminum Frames
You need to install optical (or mechanical) endstop for each axis for sure. Usually you mount them on Xmin, Ymin and Zmin. Before each print machine will find homing position.by tabana - General
It looks great, well done. Can you post more photos? I would like to see connection between X and Y axis. Also the bed leveling system. Maybe some finished prints if you have?by tabana - CoreXY Machines
No, I cant explain nothing about this. This image just reminded me on focus tubeby tabana - General
Sapphire (and ruby) are materials for water jet nozzle. I think focus tube is made of tungsten carbide, if it makes any difference. I made this post just to give you another idea, maybe it's not worth to try it.by tabana - General
What about Water jet Focus tube for nozzle ? Don't now is this suitable, but I know it is very hard, it has super fine finish and it press fit in water jet head by default (for 4000 bar or more). It is expensive OTOH... Edit: Here is the link:by tabana - General
I'm a bit confused about cast plates... I searched this forum, but still I don't get it. I can see that gonzohs is selling aluminium EN AW 5083, but not sure about the others. Flatness In gonzohs datasheet is 0,4 mm which is not acceptable for 3D printer I guess. Am I correct? I found this datasheet from aalco also. Those tolerances are even worse, but I'm not sure is that related to toleranby tabana - General
Oh I just realized that last RodFs post was almost 2 years ago Anyway, i didn't want to be rude, I really like your design, and I am planing to build something like that. I was thinking about almost the same dimensions (maybe smaller Z travel - 300 mm), but I would definitely go for sensorless build. I hope your machine is still running and I wish you many successful prints with it.by tabana - CoreXY Machines
I have same question I can see you dialed axis as much as you could, but final result seems not accurate enough for printing without auto bed leveling sensor. Am I right?by tabana - CoreXY Machines
If you have assembly in solidworks you can 1. Save assembly as part 2. Use Insert -> Features -> Scale and select all bodies (parts) 3. Go to Feature tree -> Solid Bodies -> right click on body and Insert into New Part 4. Save all parts this way and that's it. Maybe it's not the best solution if you have a lot of parts, but it works!by tabana - General
Professional robots usually use servo AC or DC motors with encoders (not steppers). This close loop systems can achieve much better control of velocity, acceleration and position. They can move much faster with less oscillations. Advantages of home made 3D printers are lower cost and good (enough) results. That's why they are so much available.by tabana - Delta Machines