QuoteVDX ... I've built several paste-dispensers with jetter-nozzles for glue or "ink" ... and several laser-engravers ... and "pick'n'place" with vacuum-heads ... and ... That would be an extremely useful add-on ! Manually building/soldering up SMT boards can be patience pushing exercise I've found.by Pippy - Developers
Wonder what else we can put our 3D printers to good use for ? Simple common use example .. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMLlFIunDWc Interested to see other ideas.by Pippy - Developers
Quotethe_digital_dentist This diagram holds the "secret" to a successful corexy layout: Stepper motors and belts will be replaced with direct drive soon if all goes well with the dev, which also includes a cheap position feedback method accurate enough for 3D printing. A direct drive setup has no belts, steppy motors, noise or backlash, is accurate to single digit microns. So no ringing from bby Pippy - Mechanics
Unfortunately @hercek, although I got the stepper motors setup and working and the end stops setup and all working in your AVR firmware, the firmware kept crashing, probably due to lack of RAM by the looks of it (stack overflow ?). When I compile, the Arduino IDE does mention that the remaining memory is a bit low. When the firmware crashes the hot end goes bang into the bed, and doesn't stop trby Pippy - Delta Machines
Quotehercek The most easy and most costly solution is to update electronics and use RepRap firmware. The most time consuming way is to use my stalled(*) Repetier branch and callibration.wxm. It is very likely you do not need any HW update but you need some math & firmware loading knowledge and free time to spend. I use it with an AVR board. All the added calibration stuff is not ported to DUby Pippy - Delta Machines
Thank you again hercek. We would love to dump marlin, it's really not very good these days, what with compile problems and such like. I just need to find a board that would run the reprap firmware, we can't justify buying one of their boards for this cheap printer at the moment, the printer was faulty when we got it, needed repairing etc, no telling what it had gone through before arriving here.by Pippy - Delta Machines
Quotehercek It looks like your bottom left tower is nearer (or further depending on sign of the error in your charts) to the centre in reality when compared to the geometry data in the firmware. Plus some slight rise of all edges up - that indicates small error in delta radius or diagonal rod. If you can handle some math then this may help you: Thank you hercek for your reply. All replies/helpby Pippy - Delta Machines
A problem with magnets is that they loose their magnetism when heated beyond a certain temperature, which is why you can't use magnetic bed surfaces with high temperatures such as with ABS.by Pippy - Delta Machines
QuoteIsembor Okay , i changed the probe z offset to -16.5. but i have in the moment no z probe ,because mine just died when i get a new one i will test this Setting and will also try and run an M48. I've broke two probe switches over the years simply by forgetting to remove the probe from under the hot end, bed crashes are inevitable with these probes Anyway, I now replace the micro switch wiby Pippy - Delta Machines
Hi I'm trying to diagnose what part of my Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus might be the most likely cause of bed mesh problem. I've done the delta calibration a fair times now followed by bed levelling but too no avail. I've placed a small piece of Kapton tape in the centre which clearly shows up in the mesh data. Here's the mesh data from two consecutive bed levelling sessions, the 2nd one is afterby Pippy - Delta Machines
Yes 3D printer is adding to the plastic problem we have created for the world, but it can also reduce the problem if properly used. We can do this by printing a new plastic part to replace that broken plastic part that would have otherwise meant the entire what-ever-it-is we're fixing would have been trashed if it weren't for our 3D printing a replacement plastic partby Pippy - Printing
I can't hear or make out the noise in your videos you're referring too, but one source of noise I found on one of my axis after building the printer was due to the belt not sitting in the middle of the pulley teeth, it was touching one of rims on the pulley which meant the teeth would ever so slightly catch on the pulley rim and produce clicking noise whenever it turned. I fixed it by ever so slby Pippy - Printing
Make sure their is no gap at all inside the heat block between the nozzle and the heat break. If their is a gap it will block your hotend up over and over again. The reason is you would get a little 'washer' of plastic form between the nozzle and the heat break, or just leaking plastic, either is bad.by Pippy - Reprappers
Why not CoreXY or Ultimate type (similar to CoreXY but uses rotating smooth rods) ? I've built a cartesian but wish I'd gone CoreXY as I love the fixed bed and X/Y moving hotend design.by Pippy - Reprappers
QuoteDust That will stop movement on the axis, but not halt the print. Yes you're right of cause. My bad. Their is also this option in Configuration_adv.h (only applies to a print being done from the SD card and not a PC) .. #define SD_ABORT_ON_ENDSTOP_HIT That requires the SD card to also be enabled though, and probably (but not sure) to have also have the other option enabled .. #defineby Pippy - Firmware - Marlin
Quotesdavi I started adding skr 1.3 config to rrf3 not too long ago. I don't have access to one, and was using this pinout diagram as a reference. Currently, there is no support for setting current etc when using drivers that use SPI or UART. Does not the duets use SPI TMC drivers ? if so, could it not be added to your LPC port I wonder ?by Pippy - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
The option is in Configuration_adv.h .. #define ENDSTOPS_ALWAYS_ON_DEFAULT It's fine to enable if you never intend too print at the edges where your end stops might be triggered.by Pippy - Firmware - Marlin
Very nice I wonder which firmware you're using for it ?by Pippy - CoreXY Machines
Quotedc42 I am in touch with someone else who has done a port of RepRapFirmware for STM processors. That would be nice for the new SKR pro board ! Marlin is so flipping buggy all the time it's awful, it's in desperate need of help from those who can write code without deliberately introducing bugs, even if it's simply to make it safe to use.by Pippy - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
The SKR v1.3 has +5V to the end stop supply pin but a 10k pull-up on the sense pin to +3V3 (rather than +5v), which shouldn't really matter. You don't need the divider as the CPU pins on the SKR board are 5V tolerant (when in digital mode - NOT analog mode). Try putting a low value pull-down resistor from the sense pin (on the 3-pin end stop connector) to GND, try say 330R resistor. That shouldby Pippy - Controllers
That's a nice PSU you're made, you've done a great job Roberts_Clif ! Looking at your circuit diagram (which is very nice by the way), we generally go by a rough rule of thumb in the development department of 2200uf per amp for the smoothing caps and add plenty of HF decoupling/filtering too when designing new PSU's, but that's for high-spec PSU's for industrial and school use etc.by Pippy - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Marlin has an option to run it in Linux by using the linux option in platformio.ini (need to compile using platformio not arduino ide), but it's intended mainly for developers.by Pippy - Developers
I've not seen anyone use through hole DIP chips for final designs in a few years now, it's pretty much all surface mount these days. For those who are not used to working SMT chips, it's not as difficult as you might think. To solder a SMT chip, all you really need is .. A soldering iron. Solder. Decent flux. Desolder wick (copper braid type stuff). A little isopropanol alcohol (amazon or suchby Pippy - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I can't provide any answers to any questions really, but you're right sure. Yes a look at the finished print would be nice and very useful. Still, it's going pretty fast all the same. Few people reach the speeds the video shows from what I've seen of other videos of printing in progress.by Pippy - Delta Machines
oh, hmmmm Yes, try commenting out FAN_SOFT_PWMby Pippy - Firmware - Marlin
no no, keep that if that's what you're using.by Pippy - Firmware - Marlin
There's an option in the Configuration.h file .. //#define FAST_PWM_FAN Try uncommenting it and recompiling, see if it helps.by Pippy - Firmware - Marlin
I think you're on the wrong forum. You need to ask for help from the guy doing the MK4 firmware. If you're lucky he'll give you support from don't bank on it, I never got any so dumped it.by Pippy - Firmware - Marlin