Ha! I’d have just called it threaded rod ! Learn something new every dayby NeilP - Mechanics
I was thinking lead = pitch, because I was only thinking of single spiral / start threads.. so it does move 8mm per turn, even though distance between threads is 1.25 mm I had not heard of the term ‘lead’ before. To me pitch was the same.. but I get it now So a 4 start rod, with 8mm lead would have 2mm pitch ?by NeilP - Mechanics
Yep, thanks I had not considered them being multi start threads initially, so a thread pitch of 8mm just sounded way off when looking at it ( the 8mm diameter set screw) 8mm metric course is 1.25mm, , metric Fine 1.0 So looking at the pictures, of what was being sold as 8mm pitch did not compute.. the threads just looked too close.. but I was not considering the multi start I had vaguely thby NeilP - Mechanics
He just got back to me He has the two new rods, he fitted but removed as he could not get them to workby NeilP - Mechanics
I popped the drivers off yesterday and checked the jumpers. yes all connected so 1/16 stepping Theoretically yes a good accuracy, but mechanically a lift of 8mm over one revolution as opposed to 1.25mm per one revolution Far finer control with the 1.25mm...but with 4 lead, then yes, a more 'square pull' of the threaded collar up the rod. I believe the previous owner did try some other rods thatby NeilP - Mechanics
I have a mechanical background. I have a lathe, I have thread gauges and I cut my own threads on a lathe. Yet I can’t understand what I am seeing referenced about these Z- axis threads My machine, GeeeTech I 3 C Pro has the factory installed rods. 20 revolutions moves 25mm. So that is a 1.25mm thread pitch 8mm on the major diameter Yet I keep seeing z-Axis lead screw sold as 8mm pitchby NeilP - Mechanics
QuoteDust Plugging the fan in backwards will kill the fan. They are polarity sensitive. I must have got lucky ! QuoteDust forget about arduino ide... get vscode with platformio Was / is far more complex than using Ardunio IDE 1.0.1, but I did get firmware uploaded It worked but even with the config.h from the relevant machine, it behaved weird with Repetier and home positions /caliby NeilP - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteDust the firmware can only turn the fan on or off. Doing so quickly it can adjust the speed. There is no way the change the direction. Plugging the fan in backwards will kill the fan. They are polarity sensitive. The only option is to turn the fan around That is odd...the last owner insists the fan was always 'label out' that is how I received it ...I turned at around but assumed I haby NeilP - Firmware - Marlin
I have just picked up a used GeeeTech i3C pro machine . It was not workmen great..so I stupidly though t..ah lets jsut re set it ..upgrade the firmware and start form there. That was a bad move.. So one problem at a time. Just wondering about the fan direction as connected to the Fan PWM pins Repetier host connects to the the machine and I can turn fan on / off Speed control also works My fby NeilP - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteDancer Sorry, in my opinnion you are damned stupid. Yes, I know. but if you too had been working on the damn things near enough every day for ,,as long as I have been confined to home with a broken leg with metal pins etc,due broken leg, since November... and as soon as one bit gets sorted another problem rears its head... you'd be sick of them too. No help or support from MakeerBot supby NeilP - General
Private sale of selection of MakerBot parts from destroyed Mini and Replicator 2 I am in UK (well Jersey) These machines were partly carefully dis-assembled, partially broken up with extreme violence.. So no chassis parts ..they were bent or smashed up..sorry. The Smart Extruders have already gone Both PSU's still available. new 24 volt heater element All stepper motors and both Z-axis thby NeilP - For Sale
The problem with the Mini was the Smart Extruders, and with the cost of the new Smart Plus being almost as much as a Prusa clone, it was not worth it. On reflection I could have kept the running gear/ gantry assembly and fitted a Ramps board and made a modified carrier to take a different hot end. but shear anger got the better of me, and it got carefully taken down the farm work shop and givenby NeilP - General
Do you want some more parts? Could have given you a complete MakerBot Mini and. Rep2 until last week But last week the dirty turd that is the Mini received a good beating with a large hammer, and yesterdy the Rep2 suffered the same fate. I had considered ripping out the minboard and rebuilding with a new hotend and electronics, but anger at the dirty pile of shite got the better of me and yesby NeilP - General
Hi Wes, I think I am going to sideline this project now...because my tempter got the better of me and my misunderstanding of what building a RepRap machine or converting my old one was. I should have kept the complete running gear of the XYZ axis and chassis ( the complete MakerBot Mini minus its PCB ) and added a Ramps board to that. I had a fully working system..which I trashed... It seeby NeilP - General
Yes I only remember this as I used to have a string of about 15 hacked 500W PC PSU’s and Meanwell’s series’d up to charge LiPo packsby NeilP - General
Ah yes, American 120VAC Sorry I had it in my mind UK 240VAC standard domestic wiring, where many ( most) mains plugs are 3 pin. Then if the house wiring is PME ( Protective Multiplr Earthing ? I think) where from memory earth is bonded to neutral.by NeilP - General
Have you already connected your PSU’s in series ? And it is OK ? If so, then you can ignore the following All I know about putting PSU’s in series is that some sorts of PSU’s /some types have the negative output ‘tied’ to earth/ground So the moment you connect the positive output of the first PSU to the negative of the second, you are connecting the positive output to ground..... instant ‘banby NeilP - General
Hi Ummm, my previous post. I quoted you,but my comment did not make it ... odd. Damn. I am stupid, letting my annoyance with the MakerBot Mini and its multiple annoying constant errors and buggy firmware, I could have kept the running unit and taken out all the PCB’s, kept the gantry and Stepper motors and added a Ramps1.4 board /PSU / new extruder on my own mounting plate. Could have eveby NeilP - General
Quotedc42 That's standard CoreXY kinematics. All the standard 3D printer firmwares support that.by NeilP - General
Thanks for that QuoteDust re Mighty Board, you should be able to put marlin on that.. its a atmel 1280 you wont be able to have all features due to limited memory... .. Typo / Auto correct ? ATMEGA 1280 ? i did not mention MakerBot in the title of my first post as that seems like a big turn off for people. I Have jointd other 3-d print forums and posted various questions over the past fewby NeilP - General
Hello all I never knew what ‘RepRap’ was until about an hour ago. I had heard the word and just assumed it was another make of printer It was only when I mentioned (on a Thingyverse conversation ) what I had just done to the MakerBot I had been given, that the subject of building a RepRap came up, and was I going to build one. So I Googled RepRap, and here I am So the story About 2 yeaby NeilP - General