OK. I started at 240 and still had a bit of oozing, and ended up at 236, at which point I had no more blobs. But did I lose interlayer adhesion? No. It's still nylon at heart, and once the layers touch there's no separating them. Thanks, that did it. I apparently have a spool of nylon pa-6,12, neutral, that prints wonderfully smooth at 260, and a spool of GF nylon pa-, that prints like coarby wallaceowen - Printing
Thanks for the feedback. I'm now trying to print the GF-nylon at 240, 30mm/sec (15mm/sec for first layer), fingers crossed.by wallaceowen - Printing
I've been successfully been printing off a spool of 3D systems nylon filament. With a nozzle temp of 260c and a bed temp of 100c, enclosure 50c and aside from some modest lifting off the build plate the prints are coming out very nice. I don't know what kind of nylon it is, PA-6, PA-6.6, PA-11, PA-12. But my process is working well. Then I purchased a kilo of SainSmart GF-nylon - Nylon with gby wallaceowen - Printing
Just a quick note for others: I've determined empirically that If you're going to attempt to place magnets in your 3D-printed parts, remember to pull out your hardened steel nozzle and put one of your old brass nozzles in.by wallaceowen - General
If you have a voltmeter, measure the output of the sensor - the signal wire you plug into the controller board. This voltage correlates to temperature. Search the web for the temp-to-voltage plot for PT100. Now, with the probe in your hand (removed from the heater block so it has faster response times), watch the voltage change. If it's where it should be, suspect your Marlin config for the bby wallaceowen - General
QuoteDaveOB Thank You DjDemonD Only just ordered the module so will take a while to arrive. Thanks for the guidance and the ideas. I suppose if the module does not work with a 5V signal, we could always beef up the signal with a transistor, or something like a 4N25 opto, controlled by 5V from the output pin, and connect the 12V PSU to the Mosfet Module Input. Just change the opto isolator's cby wallaceowen - General
QuoteDjDemonD So I was using a mechanical relay for my 24v heated bed on my corexy which has a second power supply. So I bought one of these external mosfet boards and wired it up. ... I like these (your first one) as well. The only issue I had with them is the signal goes through a wull-wave bridge then into an opto-isolator, but the current limit resistor in the path to the opto's LED is hiby wallaceowen - General
I've empirically determined that BLTouch (and 3DTouch) hall-effect leveling sensors become erratic after about 16 to 50 hours of printing in an enclosure heated to 50c. Of five purchased sensors (3 BL-touch, two #D-touch), four are no longer usable: One died (could no longer detect it's magnet at all when it deployed and retracted, so a bit more than 'erratic'); Three lost repeatability, such thby wallaceowen - General
I've got one here you can have, if you still need it. (sorry, this is in reply to an old old post by user Rlewisrlou666).by wallaceowen - General
Hello, everyone. I'm Wally, and I have a Cube Pro jettisoned as e-waste. My first 3D printer! I've read through your entire multithread, all the stories of what you have made of them and (made for them and made with them). I was encouraged. I bought the aluminum build plate with the garolite surface from that guy that's making replacement build plates, had a smoothieboard, got a V6 hotend, aby wallaceowen - General