The original temp sensors were Type K thermocouples. leadinglights is right. I am using the PT100's now though since I switched to the Dragon hotends and SKR board. I didn't know the Z-axis was 12v...are you sure? All the motors get hot, and 70-80 degrees would be normal without cooling. There are better steppers out there than these makerbot originals for heat control. I found the heat from theby guru_florida - General
I got switched back to water cooled head and latest print worked great. The hot-end is still fan cooled for now, but the issue was the extruder motor heat creeping into the gear and softening the filament until jam. Extruder motor was 40degC after 7 hour print - only 10deg above ambient. This was pretty cheap setup around $50 for the pump+resevoir and 80mm radiator. It'll be easy to mount right tby guru_florida - General
Ohmarinus : I wouldnt consider the Orbiter special for bowden use, I'm sure it could work but for bowden style weight isn't really a factor so normal stepper would work. The extruder gears are typical dual drive Bondtech-like ones. I just noticed in the pic the spring tensioner is underneath like the orbiter is resting on it, but it actually goes in the screw hole near the quick connect at the toby guru_florida - General
Interesting about the titanium insert. You and I are still putting the Experimental in "Rep 2X Experimental" aren't we! lol. I just went back to water cooled head, but this time minus the huge Koolance unit (for CPUs) and instead just a small 80mm radiator and what is basically a fish tank pump I think. All in all, cost me <50$. Motors sustain 10degC above room temp after hours so heat creepby guru_florida - General
Hi Chraeje, Welcome! Sorry I missed your posts in between all the reply-quote stuff I already read. You can download my zipped up Config files and platformio.ini file (for Visual Code IDE) from my Google Drive link. You may not have the same setup as me though! I have new hotend and temp sensors and a BL touch. I assume you are doing a Mightboard to SKR conversion like Ohmarinus and I did. I thiby guru_florida - General
On long prints, I'm finding it tough to manage the heat creap vs ABS warpage (and popping off the plate). It's like threading the eye of a needle temp wise. I'm strongly thinking of going in your direction with the bowden tube and external extruder. I added little tiny fans to steppers and no go. My other alternative is to convert some of my carriage to metal (I have the stock and CNC machine) anby guru_florida - General
Hey Ohmarinus! How is the machine running now? I am considering moving to single extruder and bowden-pusher instead of my extruder on the carriage. I just find dual extrusion such a pain to tune and 95% of the time I just want single head. Also, my glass plate cracked a bit (my own fault) and although it still works fine for now I am thinking PEI sheet is in order. What are you using for build pby guru_florida - General
Haha @ Replicator 3X. I've called mine Zombibot Replicator (as in 2X brought back from the dead) but I think I like your 3X idea better. Ours are both basically the same upgrade except for our extruder design...so you dont sue me I may have to use Replicator 3Z and Z is for Zombie. You're so right on the PWM mod. The SKR 1.4 only supports 1, one, a yeah I PWM fan. wth!?!? I dont know any serioby guru_florida - General
I didnt even realize in the youtube videos that there was no sock on your hotend! Yes, not having a sock was part of my issue a few months back. I didnt think it mattered *that* much but the hotend aluminum block was keeping the top of the part molten. I did a crappy job of wrapping mine in scraps of soft felt (whatever that stuff is called) and kapton and it looked like crap but definitely workeby guru_florida - General
Just from the videos that is a fast print speed! Since you did the extrusion calibration, I can only surmise it might be just layers printing too fast. Maybe try a larger part? You seem to be more knowledgeable in printing than I am so take any my advice with a grain of salt. I've been doing 3D printing since ~2014 but not consistently. I have more CNC background, and lots of electronics/softwaby guru_florida - General
I just got my neopixels in today. Word of caution! The TFT module electrically connects the NPWR and on-board 5V pin of the SKR mainboard. Regardless of the NPWR jumper. The NPWR (I.e. the DC-DC power module) is wired to the TFT serial header (touchscreen mode comms) and the on-board 5V is wired to the EXP1 header on the mainboard. On the TFT side it is connected both of these to VCC. I suggest cby guru_florida - General
I am back on my feet! Dismantled the the XY assembly and cleaned all the rods. Put the rods in my drill and spun them while polishing them up and down with scotchbrite pads. Then cleaned with alcohol. Definitely the brass sleeves are running smoothly and will slide on their own with a little slope. Machine is working with less drag. However, I dont think that was my issue. In my startup script, Iby guru_florida - General
Attached: GCode stepper motion test file for Rep 2X bed dimensions.by guru_florida - General
Heatbed: 15mins: 10 mins to 100degC, 15 to 110degC. Are you only heating to 100 maybe? I have a bottleworks heatbed and I think it added time....but much better than stock table was. I have 2 Trianglelabs hotends. I wouldnt exactly call them a clone, but a mix between the E3D and Mosquitto. I was contemplating E3D, which I am a big fan of their stuff, but wanted the stainless steel and no-teflonby guru_florida - General
Quote I have mounted heatsinks on all the stepper motors and probably have to lower the mA settings on the TMC2209's. I notice that with the standard setting of 800mA the motors get too hot. Yes, it's exponential too, so 500mA should probably half the heat which is what I am running at now. It seems to be good. I think bowden-drive is a good decision except I am not sure how well it will work witby guru_florida - General
Congats! Coincidentally I just refurbished my Rep2X as well. BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo Trinamic TMC2209 stepper modules Dual Dragon Hotends E3D heaters/thermisters TFT 35 Touch screen BL Touch probe I also had a lot of previous upgrades I kept: Bottleworks magnetic glass printing base Bottleworks alumninum arms better extruder tensioners (not sure where I got them) Dragon hot-ends fit E3D nozzle dimeby guru_florida - General