Well hello there. I am going crazy with doing things by myself, so i thought i will share my pain with others and maybe some of you will know what am i doing wrong. Recently i made something stupid. I downloaded from prusa all the mk3s files, printed or modyfied a lot of those files, some were made from scratch to replace cnc parts and thus EMO PIG was born. (or Original Prosiak how it is calledby kokodin - Developers
Hello i recently had an idea to upgrade my old diy printer. Nothing fancy, since it had the most problems with saging 12V to around 10,5 when both heaters were working, i focused on that.. Only i forgoten that ramps 1,4 is designed for 12V and when i fed it with rewired power suply at 15V to make both heaters efectively twice as powerfull, (still under polufuse trip voltage), i fried arduino mby kokodin - General
I think i have solved it, thanks to reading VDX comment along with the stuff i wrote and adding the two together. It was in fact overheating, by consistant amount ~20-25 degree. for the silly reason. I filled in the thermistor hole with cheap white thermal paste and pop it back in, and the prints become normal, surprisingly identical to the ones at work or my homemade printer. Silly thing beingby kokodin - Printing
It is really puzzeling actually because at work i printed this exact model using pla that was open for 2 years, and just sat in the basement all this time without box. and also with pla that ccame with chinese 3d pensin a ziplog bag with no dehumidifier at all. in both cases i had no issues, but it was printing on a creality hotend i never took apart more than the nozzle.by kokodin - Printing
PLA temperature was set to 215 C, ABS 235 C , with some filements at work like white , black or silver pla i need to rise it to 225 or the layers don't stick. Bed is at 60C for black plastic surfaces, and 75 if i print on pei Temperature on screen is displayed in a range of 1 degree of the target. but who knows what it really is. I replaced thermistor one day because it was breaking up and ruby kokodin - Printing
Hello, i think i have a problem with one out of 5 printers i regularly use, but the problem is a bit dodgy. it only manifests when i print slow with big nozzles. I made a model of a christmass ornament ball, Sliced it for 0,8mm nozzle mostly a vase mode but top part is regular 3 layers cap due to overhangs It prints fine on 3 printers but on the modyfied ender 3 i own it behaves as if every filemby kokodin - Printing
I think i made it work, but not without few surprizes. 1 Don't assume just because your controller board came out of oryginal ender 3 it is the 8 bit version. Aparently it is the 4.2.2 variant with 32bit controller and 4988 drivers and by factory all motors run on 50% rated power. or it came out from different printer before it ended up in that ender i took apart 2 Don't asume increasing currby kokodin - General
From the authopsy i can say it has 4 coils, in 2 paralell pairs , i could technically rewire it in series. then i would match most of 1,5A motors in those datasheets online. But i can't find anything of this dimentions with resistance that low. Does that means it is wired for ~3A? I have spare coil assembly from the motors i used as bearing blocks, and this motor was apart few times also so thereby kokodin - General
Hello. i can't find the answer to my question via google search, even though i would think this would be a common DIY problem for trash builders. So i thought i ask at the source of diy 3d printers. I am trying to fit a 1$ used stepper motor with no info to ender 3 oryginal arduino based controller. But i have no idea what current can this stepper motor handle, let alone what it would ideally beby kokodin - General