I have one of those generic white pcb screen connected to my ramps , whenever i connect the usb to my PC each character position slowely starts turning black until it reaches its max contrast. when i unplug the usb it goes back to displaying the printer stats, if i try and connect to the printer in repetier it never gets a reading from the thermistors after if you unplug the usb so you can see thby Rooski - General
i was using a wades style extruder with a a4988 driver I just recently finished putting on the new leadscrews and switched all drivers to drv8825's , but havent had time to print anything yet.by Rooski - Printing
actually it turned out that my driver was dying , i replaced it with a cheap chinese DRV8825 and it works great now. well great meaning that it doesn't produce that noticeable wobble , i still seem to be getting some kind of regular pattern on both axes, it seems to correspond to the motor vibrations when powered. it feels completely smooth but i can see it running vertically through the part,by Rooski - Printing
changing z height didnt change anything so i figured maybe it was loose belts and after tightening them up to the point that i can use my printer as an instrument the issue still persists :\ Im now thinking that it may be due to my extrusion , as im printing the outer perimeter last and its probably oozing out in an S shape causing these ripples. So i figure i have to reduce flowrate for periby Rooski - Printing
Ive been trying to dial in my prints to acceptable standards but i keep getting these strange ripples along the x-axis , gives parts an almost wood grain look as if it was cut with the grain going vertically through the part. Any idea what is causing this ?? as you can see the ripples are along only the x axis. i know i have pretty bad z wobble but thats due to cheap threaded rod, will upgradeby Rooski - Printing
Ive started working on my little printer a long time ago and have some time to upgrade it some more, i have a Prusa Mendel and have been looking to upgrade to a vertical x-axis so i could switch out extruders quickly. I'm now wondering if the Prusa i3 x-axis would work ?? Any info or suggestions is much appreciated. Thank you.by Rooski - Prusa i3 and variants
It worked perfectly thank you , and thanks for the explanation.by Rooski - General
for some reason now whenever i start a print in repetier host sliced with cura, it homes the axis waits for nozzle temp then goes to start position then proceeds to reverse out all the filament from the extruder and begins the print ... i cant figure out why. here is a snippet from the beginning of the gcode. ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 14.12 ; Default start code G28 X Y Z; Home extruderby Rooski - General
hmm , does the smoothie board have any significantly better features than the duet ? and thanks vreihen ill be sure to keep an eye out for that code.by Rooski - Controllers
I am getting very frustrated with my ancient electronics, for the life of me i cant seem to upload the new marlin firmware to the board. i keep getting that avrdude serial error since the board does not auto reset before an upload, i remember this being fidgety but i think something is wrong now. im using arduino v0023 and i have the sangu files needed, everything else is stock. also the debug leby Rooski - Controllers
i just setup my new e3d hotend and im testing the temperatures , the thermistor is reading 200C when my thermocouple is reading 180C. im using gen6 electronics and marlin V1 with thermistor id 5. Im guessing its not supposed to be off this much, even though im using the recommended id as per the e3d instructions. How would i go about generating a better table ?by Rooski - General
Um, did you double check your settings so infill is enabled usually lower than 15% will barely fill most areas. and make sure that you selected those settings to slice.by Rooski - Printing
Yeah sounds like your y-axis is skipping steps. Might be too tight on one section of the rods. Make sure the carraige moves easily along the entire lenght.by Rooski - Printing
Thanks , after some more digging it does seem like it should work aslong as i update all the temp tables in firmware. and about the oscillating yeah my motors do whine alot, he mentioned attaching a small capacitor in parallel to ... any ideas ?by Rooski - General
I just got my new E3dv6 Hotend (yay), and it uses a 12v 40W cartridge heater, im running Non-deluxe gen6 electronics. im wondering if itll work or if ill run into issues. because the gen6 uses a 12v 4.7 ohm resistor. idk , i dont want to fry anything.by Rooski - General
95 £ is a bit much for me to pay on new 3d tech. The flex3ddrive looks fantastic but I just want my little printer to work.by Rooski - General
Yeah I went that route. Printing new lm8uu carraige and geared wades for an e3dv6 1.75 hotend. I've got an entire spool of red 3mm to use up beforehand :\by Rooski - General
increasing voltage and temperature did help but it still skips, maybe too much resistance due to old style hotend ?by Rooski - Printing
It does stutter worse when its going fast, but the fastest im running is 40mm/s for infill. i had it running at 60mm/s before. and temp i run PLA at 204 C, think i should increase it ? also my voltage is at 2.8 , which is what my nema17 is rated for . but im wondering if i should increase it? even at 2.8V after about and hour of printing the motor gets quite hot.by Rooski - Printing
Ran it for a bit and im 80% sure its do to stepper overheating and a clogged hobbed bolt. will need to clean and put on a large heatsink then retest.by Rooski - Printing
yes , in the video i dont focus on it but the print is very choppy and some areas are filled nicely and others are just hairline strands. i am using 3mm though so it might be too tough to push through the hotend? ill try increasing temp to help. also on a side note im using gen6 electronics(i know ancient right) and the stepper driver heatsinks are very hot to the touch, with the printer being oby Rooski - Printing
My stepper seems to be skipping or stuttering. I dont know which or what could be the cause. Anyway here is a video showing the problem. Any info would be much appreciated. Video - YouTubeby Rooski - Printing
Yeah it would be cool, anyhoo back on topic. im looking for files that would get me something like this but i would cut it out of an aluminium plate. EDIT______ More so like this , but id ideally want it to have a mount for an all metal hotend. Any other suggestions ?by Rooski - General
Ive been looking for an all metal extruder, and my friend offered to cut one for me on a wire edm machine he has at work. The machine cuts within a 1 micron tolerance so im looking for sliced extruder files, without the hexed holes. If someone is willing to make a dwg, igs, stp, or a solidworks 2013 drawing. I would pay to have a few parts made for them. It has to be flat though.by Rooski - General
Anyone hear anything about these ? Chinese but seems much more solid than what I have... any input would be appreciated.by Rooski - General
So after some time away im coming back to this seemingly never ending project (started a few years ago :x ). Well ive decided to lay some cash into it. this is what i currently have and as you can see its barely been holding itself together. Im looking for a new carraige, extruder, and nozzle. The extruder and carriage should be very solid and the nozzle reliable , I've had too much trouble wby Rooski - General
when extruding alot my extruder will begin "clicking" just like in the video above and i dont know how to fix it. EDIT___ ive boosted the extruder pot by half a turn and the clicking has minimized, but still does it occasionally. could it be the friction between the molten plastic and the filament causing the motor to slip ? also im looking for a new extruder/hotend combo that wont fail meby Rooski - Reprappers
i found an extension for inkscape called inkcut , it seems to have the features i need and i can export the generated tool path as gcode, so thanksby Rooski - General