Hi everyone, I'm here to announce that we have offically debuted our company's (Tinkerine Studio) flagship 3D printer at Vancouver's Mini Maker Faire 2012 this past weekend. We are a newly founded company with background in industrial and interaction design. However, I personally have been in the reprap community for about a year and a bit now. Ditto came out from some limitations and inspiratiby ECSuyu - General
chances are I wont be able to make the 30th reprap meet, post birthday dinners with a few friendsby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
PLA will dissolve in high alkine solutions, dishwashing detergents are usually very high in alkalinity so thats why it dissolves. PLA is safe in freshwater fishtanks where kh is 0-3dkH but does not do well in saltwater aquariums where the kh is 8-11dkh. There is a product called biopellets in the aquarium industry, and it is a plastic polymer very simular to PLA that bacteria consumes, I would noby ECSuyu - General
Like Sublime has suggested a layer height chance is needed, I find the Jhead works best with 0.175-0.20mm layer heights. Although the auto setting in slicer is good for the width over thickness ratio I prefer to manually set it to anywhere between 0.4-0.5mm depending on what I am printing so I can tweak the settings to the prints (if 1mm is the part width 0.5mm would pass it 2x with no gap)by ECSuyu - General
I'll be there with my machine as well.by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
hows the progress on the electronics? I cant wait to get my prusa going now that I've help 2 other members here get theirs running!by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
alderauto has 40mm socket screws in M3 or M4 sizesby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
if my schedule doesnt change, I should be there, see you all wed!by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
design all my files using solidworks, no problems hereby ECSuyu - General
Might I ask for those who are having J-heads that are hard to extrude. Did this happen at the beginning? or did it gradually become hard to extrude. I find out of the 3 J-heads I use I have to clean the nozzle every once in a while (few months with it printing 8-12 hrs daily) to keep it going strong. That's to say, taking it off and dipping it in acetone for a few days. I dont know the cause ofby ECSuyu - General
My experience with normal non clogged extrusion is the same as pastarocket. hold onto the filament going into the extruder and just rest my arm and let gravity do the work. That alone is more then enough to start extruding.by ECSuyu - General
with the 3 J-heads I've used, there has been no problem and they are all 0.35mm. The calculation for the extruder generated by slic3r would have been thrown off due to the 0.5mm nozzle input. When taking off the idler and free pushing the filament in by hand, there should be some resistance but it shouldnt require a tremendous amount to start to see the filament coming out the tip of the nozzleby ECSuyu - General
I am using the J head MK IV-B 0.35mm nozzle and have experienced it once when I had my extruders idler bearing pinch too tightly against the hobbed bolt. So thats what I would check first. I print ABS the faster I print the hotter the hotend has to be to keep up. I can easily print at 100mm/s with the J head at 220C but it will start to drop to 216 once it reaches 100mm/s. Not that I would printby ECSuyu - General
Check to see if the pulley on the Y axis (if the photo is orientated correctly) is loose. Looks like a mechanical issueby ECSuyu - General
I cant for the life of me get 1.0 to work for ramps 1.2 either. I have however managed to print well with 0.9.9, what is the speed you are printing at? what braudrate?by ECSuyu - General Mendel Topics
which firmware are you using? IF its an old version of marlin (0.9) it was known to have buffer overflows if printing too fast which caused an issue simular to this. Otherwise it could be a communication error, I used to have a skipped step(s) when the computer hosting it would lag for a split second.by ECSuyu - General Mendel Topics
I was going to offer my help in testing them if you didnt have your electronic once my 2nd RAMPS gets here but let me know if you need help with it regardless.by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
nice! cant wait to get all my electronics for the prusa. Rob are you pre testing the stepsticks to see if they all work first?by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
I use double 14 gauge wires for my heated bed, itll easily get to 140C without any issues. The wires dont get hot at all on top of thatby ECSuyu - General
I think I'll be good enough to go to the meet tomorrow! I'll see everyone then.by ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
Sublime, you want to know why those prints look good for the first print? It's because I helped him.... haha, no im joking. Bobby if you want some m3 50mm, you know who to ask, maybe you can "borrow" another 2by ECSuyu - General
an asymmetrical build space actually makes no sense in printing real life products than a symmetrical one. Everyday products are usually not uniform in shape. I would say its a good ideaby ECSuyu - General
I think its a combination of pinching the filament too tightly against the hob/ or too loose and stripping it or the hotend is jamming which is unlikely unless there is something in the filament that caused it to jam. I can print ABS at 220C without any issues with no fan, but long prints (3+ hrs) will eventually cause issues for me as the heat travels up. But Bobby, If you want the start and enby ECSuyu - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
it looks like the orca is based off the sells mendel in terms of construction. It could be the nuts on around the bearings are bindingby ECSuyu - General
Ideally the tolerance should be +/- 0.001 but the reason why I said it isnt too bad is from my personal experience with filament that varies from 2.9-3.3 0 in a distance of 15cm haha....and yet the filament is still usable but you can see the filaments variation in the print quality that results.by ECSuyu - General
The biggest piece I have printed so far has only been 100 x 100mm..But with that said I think a size of 150 x 150mm would be the smallest bed size I would personally want. I do think that the 20cm x 20cm size we have right now is good, but printing a continuous piece of that size is definitely going to be hard to prevent warping around the edgesby ECSuyu - General
A friend of mine in the my local reprap group bought filament from mixshop. I took a caliper to it and the variation was roughly 2.85- 2.96mm in a length that was roughly 30cm. So variation wise its not too bad, I'll be helping him with calibration and tweaking the settings next week so I'll get back with the resultsby ECSuyu - General
its the ABS juice that you used, just different terms that people go by. Mine is a pcb heated bed.by ECSuyu - Reprappers
ABS slug works, but its kind of a hassle to apply every time. I'm able to get my heated bed to 140C with using just 12Vby ECSuyu - Reprappers