What layer height did you print that cat? It must have been pretty hard getting the different color filament joined for that print. I am impressed. bdcannonby bdcannon - General
Hey everybody, So I have a gap in between shells. For example, if print with an extra shell, there will be a gap between the outer perimeter and the inner shell. I think it's because my skeinforge settings are set so that it thinks the extrusion width is larger than it actually is. I was wondering if anybody else had similar problems and confirm my suspicion. Thanks everyone. bdcannonby bdcannon - General
Good News Everyone! I know you all were frantically checking this post to see how this story of a man and his printer would unfold. Turns out my mechanical endstop was indeed "tired". Radio Shack, which i now hate a little bit more, supplied me with new mechanical endstop which fixed my problem. Homes no problem now. bdcannonby bdcannon - General
Hey Kortal, I'm running pretty much what Lars_A is running. I'm using SFACT right now, which is a fork of skeinforge. It was really amazing how easy it was to get a really decent print after changing just a few settings, compared to just straight skeinforge. I used to use repsnapper as well, but I find pronterface much nicer. Especially if you are using windows on your host computer. As for fiby bdcannon - General
Nophead, Actually now that I think about it more, I misspoke. The microswitch is not grounded, it's normally closed to the negative, not ground, and is also protected by pull up resistors, so it is much more possible that a positive voltage (relative to the negative) higher than the threshold for high/low can be created... hmmm Well Radio Shack here I come. bdcannonby bdcannon - General
Thanks for the advice guys, Noobman, I haven't had a chance to try the G161 command but I'll give it a shot when I get home. Is there a large between G28 and G161? Nophead, As for my wires being for the endstops being close to the motor wires, yes they are. But I've never had any problems with the motor current inducting a false positive for my endstops and I've had the same set up for quitby bdcannon - General
Hey Everyone, My Setup: Prusa Mendel Host: Pronterface I wanted to get peoples opinions on this. Printer was working great, even finished a few several hour prints yesterday no problem, but today... Fire up the printer and it doesn't home correctly before a print. For example the z will begin going home but stop as if it did hit the endstop. I thought at first it must be my endstops, bad conneby bdcannon - General
Thanks for the hints guys. I figured that the extruder body could be a problem. Maybe I'll look into some some wooden spacers as an added precaution, but i think with the fan that will be plenty to keep the plastic cool. bdcby bdcannon - General
Hi Pointedstick, I don't know what you're talking about! That print is pretty much blowing my mind. But If I had to take a guess I would imagine that your x axis is missing steps. Meaning that that its trying to go left but due to resistance or some other problem it can't. So the controller and code goes about it's business like it did take the steps. Or an even simpler solution could be the pulby bdcannon - General
Hi everyone, I was wondering if any one has their prusa (or any printer for that matter) printed parts entirely in PLA and how do they hold up? I was going to donate a set of parts to a club on campus and I have a bunch of extra PLA, but I didn't want to give them something that would lead them down the wrong path. Thanks everyoneby bdcannon - General
Hey Nelson, Aluminum already has great thermal conductivity and a low specific heat capacity, which means its great at evenly spreading heat. Adding a thermal compound, like a heatsink grease will create a thermal bridge and help the "flow" of heat from the pcb to the aluminum plate. I would also suggest to make sure that the thermal compound is not electrically conductive, just as a precaution.by bdcannon - General
Hey Nelson, I hope you figure out your problem soon. I would agree with what everyone has been saying so far. You should see/hear if your extruder is missing steps, sounds clunky and the filament or the gears won't turn smoothly. Also, I would suggest checking the teeth on the your hobbed bolt. If you see lots of PLA/ABS stuck in the teeth you might want to tighten the idler on the extruder. Iby bdcannon - General
Yep definitely had a "duh" moment. It wasn't the x axis that was flipped, it was in fact the y axis. Now I don't have to read stuff with a mirror. I'm attaching the stl file for the "crest". Also if you check out Makerbot castle on thingiverse, there's some other pretty sweet objects related to this. Thanks againby bdcannon - General
I was thinking that too, being that my x axis was traveling in the wrong direction, but when I tell it to travel positive, it does travel to the right. I'm going to dive into the firmware settings and see if it was something I accidentally tweaked when I was calibrating. My machine is a Prusa Mendel, with Ramps 1.2 and the Sprinter firmware. It wasn't a kit though, I scrounged parts over a few mby bdcannon - General
I just printed the reprap badge from thingiverse. Pretty sweet and a good quality print except the print seems to be mirrored. As in the reprap text was backwards. Skeinforge created a tool path that was correct but I just don't get it. Photo is attached. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks againby bdcannon - General
Thanks for the advice guys. I did a little bit of everything and my overall print quality is much better couldn't be happier. Thanks againby bdcannon - General
Thanks for all the responses guys. Yes I am doing the infill before the outlines. That was the default setting in skeinforge. Ill have to try otherwise when I get home from work. I'll also tweak the carve settings. More on the matter later. Thanks a lot guys.by bdcannon - General
Hi everyone, I don't know if has the same problem as me but I'm having trouble printing even minor over hangs. My prusa completely over runs the perimeter by a little bit and then leaves a thread of plasting hanging free on the side. Any suggestions? I'm using skeinforge 40 for my interpreter btw. Thanksby bdcannon - General
I'm actually not seeing the part at all when I open it up in Solidworks. Do I need an stl Importer?by bdcannon - General Mendel Topics
Hi everyone! I'm brand new to RepRap world but I was wondering if there is any information on the dimensions of the current Prusa printed parts. I downloaded the Prusa assembly from reprap.org but a lot of them don't open correctly on newer versions of SolidWorks. If anybody has any information I'd appreciate it.by bdcannon - General Mendel Topics