Phizinza Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Here are my thoughts so far... > > * The pulley on the barrel would have to be the > same size as the barrel to ensure if moves the > surface just as the heatbed would move, therefor > not requiring firmware calibration changes. Changing the Y steps in the firmware takes about 2 seconds now, there's no nby ttsalo - General
The J-Head hot-end is very reliable and extrudes easily. I just built a MendelMax 1.5 to replace one of my other printers and installed the Repetier firmware on it. Together with the Repetier host software they are a really nice combination. Changing all the most important options of the firmware directly from the host software GUI is much nicer than having to look up cryptic G-Codes or recompilby ttsalo - General
My J-Head MkV is much easier to extrude with than for example an Arcol V4. The J-Head I have does 75mm/s at 0.3 layer height and 0.6 track width just fine, at 230 C and 3mm reprapworld.com ABS filament. Is yours from hotends.com or somewhere else? There have been some poor quality clones around...by ttsalo - General
Handheld plastic welding guns have been using 3mm and 4mm filaments since before the DIY printer boom, so it's natural to be compatible with them.by ttsalo - General
CPS Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Where is a RAMPS board that supports 10+ motors > along with temperature control, etc. And how much > is it including all boards for the motors and > such. Each stepstick driver is $9.50 on amazon = > $95 (maybe i'm missing bulk pricing idk) just for > the drivers (doesn't look like RAMPS board has > enoughby ttsalo - Developers
Solved already! The firmware was using a Z-step value of about 90 (as well as slightly incorrect X and Y step values) from EEPROM even though I had never written anything to EEPROM. Strange... So, for anyone having issues, remember to check the EEPROM settings with M205. edit: Oh, the settings are automatically stored to EEPROM when the firmware first runs and there's a special parameter you havby ttsalo - Reprappers
I'm having the same problem with the latest Repetier firmware from github. I have a newly built MendelMax (M8 Z rods) with Megatronics 2.0 electronics. X and Y move fine, but raising Z by 10 mm turns the motors only about 1/3 turn, at really low speed. And yes, the Z steps are most definetely correct: #define ZAXIS_STEPS_PER_MM 2560.0 Z homing works fine, and moves much faster than the regularby ttsalo - Reprappers
martinprice2004 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I thought I would post a link here to Quentin > Harleys' "Morgan SCARA" robot. A really nice build > and it prints very well. > > Morgan SCARA > > Now if we can just get rid of the linear rails for > the Z axis we would be really on our way to a > fully printable robot. I hope he posts tby ttsalo - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
I like to follow the various new projects just to see what they're coming up with, so I visited the Makibox forums. The following is about the units being shipped to first external users. QuoteMakibox Lead Developer on 2.3.2013 It looks like the first one will go out tomorrow. We've been trying to get a consistent output from the production hot end and extrusion drive, the main culprit being movby ttsalo - General
cobrageek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The way the Sanguinololu is setup you supply it > with 12V and then it drives everything including > the heated bed. That little dinkly board with > those small pins seems awefully small to be > carrying 30A if it really requires that. Am I > missing something here? I used a 15A heat bed with Sanguinolby ttsalo - General
Must be differences in individual setups, but on my Prusa i2 the limiting factor is the extruder large gear and motor hitting first the triangle rods at the ends of X travel and eventually the horizontal top rods in the middle of the X travel. So flipping the X ends and/or carriage would do absolutely nothing for the maximum Z travel, since the extruder would hit the frame at the same Z as beforeby ttsalo - General
Hardware stores should have self-adhesive insulation for wrapping around hot pipes, but it works nicely for printer heat beds too. Armaflex HT is one type, rated to 150 C, if you can find it. More common types are rated to 105 or so, which should still be OK for ABS temps, but barely.by ttsalo - General
jamesdanielv Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > unequal pressure. go into configuration.h and > change z steps per mm to be within 100ths and that > is it. so 2555.6677 should be 2555.66 for example. > any settings above 3 digits past decimal can cause > a calculation error because of single precision > floats ieee 754 What is this supposed to accby ttsalo - General
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Matches my experience with Generation 7 > Electronics. Because these clones/derivates > require substantial less development efforts they > can put their focus entirely on marketing. It's > marketing alone which matters today, the actual > quality of a product is (almost) neglibile, as > long as a prodby ttsalo - General
Yes. The brass nozzle attaches directly to the PEEK body, and it will soften the PEEK and fall off sooner or later at PC (270-300 C) temperatures. The massive nut will only mean that the heater needs more power to maintain the hot end at printing temperature. Forget trying to cool it, there's a way too efficient heat conductor from the nozzle to it (the brass nozzle tube). Just get an all metalby ttsalo - General
If you insulate the bed bottom, you should be able to reach 105-110 degrees with 100 watts. That should be pretty optimal for ABS. I used self-adhesive high temp pipe insulation, commonly available from hardware stores...by ttsalo - Reprappers
xiando Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @Tssalo, the question stands: > > I have to ask if the strength and weight (actually > lightness is a better term) of plastic printed > objects (by printed I mean reprap-prusa.mendel > style wet extrusion) equals or even approaches > that of conventionally cast or vaccu-formed > objects. What I meantby ttsalo - General
Ok, since there seems to be much talk about 100 micron layers being some sort of holy grail which requires a special printer, here is the Matterhorn printed with 100 micron layers on a completely standard Prusa i2: And here is an extreme closeup of the previous image, showing the individual layers: I think it looks pretty good. And this is on a completely standard Prusa i2 with M8 Z rods, Tby ttsalo - Reprappers
More materials - flexible, conductive, heat-resistant, magnetic, and the ability to switch between different materials and color during a single print, preferably at sub-mm precision More useful object construction methods - paste deposition, powder sintering, etc. Printer designs and object build techniques which allow printing a printer that produces better precision than the original one. (Tby ttsalo - General
Under the usual EU patent laws (assuming that any of these patents even exist on this side of the pond) private and experimental use are exempt, so the EU-based RepRap open source projects should not have anything to worry about these patents.by ttsalo - General
Found this image of EventorBot's latest Y axis design. The actual print bed is a plastic plate which attaches with spring-loaded bolts to the outermost black frame. It's supported over very small section in the arm and the arm in turn is supported by a very small section inside the vertical pillar – the pillar only has very closely spaced rods and linear bearings for that, while having to takeby ttsalo - Reprappers
I have also developed a firmware variation for non-cartesian geometry (Marlin-SCARA). xclusive585 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'll start here: It seems there are 3 options > available for controlling a delta > 1. The existing "hacks" on top of marlin and > repetier that calculate and translate into > something the firmware can use. I used thisby ttsalo - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
xiando Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > While I totally "get" the idea of using extruded > concrete, I have to ask if the strength and weight > (actually lightness is a better term) of plastic > printed objects (by printed I mean > reprap-prusa.mendel style wet extrusion) equals or > even approaches that of conventionally cast or > vaccu-formedby ttsalo - General
Latest versions of Slic3r have gotten really good at accurately filling small spaces and tight gaps. That's probably why the gear teeth look so good. I'm sure you could get at least similar quality out of Skeinforge by tuning the settings, but why bother? Are the pictured Slic3r results some sort of a problem you really want to fix? I, at least, really don't miss things like the Clip module or tby ttsalo - Reprappers
I can also offer a tale of warning... I was using a 0.8 ohm heated bed with Sanguinololu 1.3a electronics. This draws about 15 amps. I had been printing with it at least some tens of hours total, with no problems, until a print detached from the bed before it had finished. I noticed that the bed had gone cold during the print. Closer examination revealed that the bed control FET was no longer coby ttsalo - General
martinprice2004 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What upsets me is how they are hijacking > kickstarter. Both I and Johann developed our > robots in a few months without external funding. > The total cost must have been less than £400 in > my case. I had no need to raise $150,000 before I > got started. They have already developed it, that's notby ttsalo - General
It's a tradeoff like most things are. Larger flat area around the orifice can produce smoother output but can also cause filament drive problems whenever there is too little space for the extruded filament (starting even a little too close to the print bed, printing in a spot that has ended up overfilled for some reason). A sharp tip with very little flat area is more tolerant with these issues bby ttsalo - General
Randy Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > And, if I can build a rigid machine for accurate > printing, why should it not be adaptable to 3D > machining as well? I have seen many threaded-rod > examples using plastiic printed parts that surely > must be flimsy at best. And linear bearings held > in place by plastic wire-ties on wood bases, my > gby ttsalo - General
sungod3k Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 2. i can imagine i have to test the actual > clearances out with my individual printer and > material or is there a rule of thumb? I have been using 0.5 mm clearance (total gap) for rougher parts that should fit together easily without sanding and 0.25 mm clearance for a tighter fit in finer parts.by ttsalo - General
They certainly are an optimistic bunch. Their pellet (to filament) extruder is already available for ordering even though they only have a very rough sketch drawn a couple of days ago.by ttsalo - General