You have two solutions here: 1) Print yourself a 1.75mm Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder. That takes < 100g of filament and you can reuse all the metal parts (bearings, screws, hobbed bolt, etc) from your present extruder. Or... 2) Drill a 4mm hole through your 3mm Greg's Wade's body and insert a piece of 4mm OD, 2mm ID PTFE (Teflon) tube inside, going from the hobbed bolt right down to the Jheby julianh72 - General
Clear as mud now? Yes, I think so - thanks! The Wades Extruder isn't a Bowden, and doesn't use any tubing, and I don't use any tubing from the spool to the top of the extruder drive. (Should I?) The 1.75 mm and 3 mm J-Head have the same mounting detail, but the protruding set-screw in the top of the 1.75 mm version worries me a bit - it might foul the bottom of the Extruder body. If so, I thby julianh72 - General
Sorry to butt in here - but this thread came up in a search of my own. (I suspect my question has been asked and answered many times before - apologies if that is the case!) I have a home-built Prusa Mendel, which was designed and built for 3 mm filament. It has an original Wade's Geared Extruder (which is still working fine), and it had the original PTFE-bodied "Geared Extruder Nozzle" , whichby julianh72 - General
Use a 12 volt relay?by julianh72 - General
I have responded, but found a couple of questions a bit hard to answer. (Predicting the future is always tricky - especially before it happens!) One day, every home may well have a 3D printer, but for the reasonably foreseeable future, I still see it as a bit of a niche / geek hobby. Will companies start releasing open-source printable products? Sure - when they work out how to make moneby julianh72 - Reprappers
FreeCAD is a very capable freeware option. I'm also very impressed with OnShape, as long as you have an active internet connection - especially as it will run in the browser on any computer (Windows, Mac, Linux, Chromebook...) without needing to install any software - and there are even native apps for Android and iOS. (Put the finishing touches on your design while you're on the bus tby julianh72 - 3D Design tools
I built my Prusa starting with a kit of printed parts and the main "vitamins" purchased on eBay, then scrounged / cloud-sourced the rest (electronics, motors, power supply, heat-bed, etc). All-up cost to get the basic machine working with PLA (no heat-bed) was about AU$565 (including shipping), or about $610 including the heat-bed. (I had a few bits and pieces lying around which went into the buiby julianh72 - General
1. Type of PSU: PC-PSU, with 10W10RJ power resistor on 5V rail - See 2. Specified overall PSU power: 500 watts ATX power supply (very generously sized - but I had one lying around!) 3. Specified current on the 12V rail: 16 amps 4. Approximate current of the heated bed: About 11 amps (Mk. 1 PCB heated bed) 5. Firmware in use: Sprinterby julianh72 - Controllers
gregted Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Appreciate the replys. > > Sooo, I should be able to print out a set with 3, > 20 meter rolls but in 3 colors. Interesting. > > I am interested in printing in multiple colors. Is > there a way to do this without manually changing > the input. > > j andberg, do you have any links to your desigby julianh72 - Reprappers
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > A lot of the compact ones have crap electronics > that blow before the bulb itself. Probably > inadequate surge protection or capacitors with a > lower lifetime rating than the bulb. Electrolytic > capacitors are only rated for 2000 or 5000 hours. > To make them last longer you have to de-rate the > tempby julianh72 - RAMPS Electronics
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I wasn't keen on the light-bulb idea, because if / > when the bulb blows, your whole power supply will > probably shut down under load, because of the loss > of load on the 5 V line > > I think the life time of a bulb is proportional to > the inverse 12th power of voltage. So if say it > was a 1000 hby julianh72 - RAMPS Electronics
I use a 10 ohm / 10 watt power-resistor on the 5 V circuit, tied to the metal chassis to act as a heat sink. Some people use something like a 10 W / 12 V light bulb, which can act as both a load on the 5 V rail and as a visual indicator that it is powered on. (I wasn't keen on the light-bulb idea, because if / when the bulb blows, your whole power supply will probably shut down under load, becausby julianh72 - RAMPS Electronics
shinjinian Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I found a suitible power supply for $20 but while > I'm waiting for it to arrive can I power it from > the arduino? If so i doubt I would be able to > power my heated platform from the ramps Best case scenario is that it just won't work. Worst case scenario is that you'll blow your Arduino and / or you RAMPby julianh72 - RAMPS Electronics
I downloaded and installed without any problems. As others have noted, check your Spam folder for the registration e-mail. And be prepared for a lot more "Spam" - the logic seems to be give the software away, in the hope that you will pay for downloadable content. I get 5 or 6 e-mails a week offering to sell me posable characters, outfits, hair-dos, etc, none of which has any relevance to my 3D pby julianh72 - General
rcs Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It is also a good idea to load the 5V rail with > about a 5R restistor if you are using a PC power > supply they need a load on the 5V or 3.3V rails in > order to get a stable 12V from the 12V rail the > black and yellow cables are all joined up inside > the P.S. Yes, I should have mentioned that I have a permaby julianh72 - RAMPS Electronics
I have a 500 W ATX power supply: I just joined almost all of the yellows together, almost all all of the reds, almost all of the blacks, etc, and then run just one length of 20 A two-wire lead from the binding posts on my power supply to the terminals on the RAMPS. I just jumper the 5 A and 11 A terminals together with a short length of 20 A wire, so they are both fed from the same 20 A lead.by julianh72 - RAMPS Electronics
Should have ample capacity; just make sure you cover those bare 240 V terminals on the back properly when you wire it up. These devices are meant to be rack-mounted, with all the wires out of harm's way; in a desktop situation, you could come into contact with the live terminals if you aren't careful. (E.g. I imagine it contravenes all sorts of wiring regulations and insurance policies etc!)by julianh72 - General
ikilledkenny Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Unsure about the design of the wades extruder. I > purchased a kit from e-bay and looking it over it > does not say if the extruder is for 3.0 or 1.75 > filament. My entire hot end is though designed > for 1.75 though. The point I am making is that if the extruder body is designed for 3 mm filament,by julianh72 - Reprappers
My Wade's Extruder is designed for 3 mm filament, not 1.75 mm. Are you sure yours is a 1.75 mm extruder body? I can imagine things jamming pretty easily if the filament is not well guided by the bore of the hole in the extruder body.by julianh72 - Reprappers
offtherails2010 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Um, as the extra weight of the Nema 23 motor would > add undesirable stress on the x-axis, just asking, > but would it be frustratingly difficult to modify > a reprap mendel or prusa mendel so that the Print > Bed moves instead of the actual print-head so that > i would be able to achieve extremelyby julianh72 - General
Hmmm - thousands (tens of thousands?) of machines, pretty well every one just a little bit different from every other machine. What are the chances that anyone will ever be able to successfully use a forum thread like this to track down someone with a similar machine who can assist them? I'm going to suggest a different approach: Maybe what we need is some sort of flag on the Wiki pages for thby julianh72 - General
I use a standard Wade's Extruder. I find that if you try to empty all the old filament out of the extruder before shutting down (e.g. by pulling the filament out while it is still hot, or by cutting of the filament and extruding until it won't extrude any more) and then let it cool down, there are almost always some "hairs" of old filament left in the extruder body, and / or the filament will sofby julianh72 - General
2. You can use cable ties on the Y-Axis belt as well - just "daisy-chain" a few together to make a super-long cable-tie, then loop around both ends of the belt on the Y-Axis carriage, then tighten. See: - crude, but effective! 3. For 8 mm springs - just try the local hardware store - they usually carry these sorts of things, and you can usually buy them singly or in small packets. Hope this heby julianh72 - Reprappers
karmacappa Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Another option would be to have a flexible tube > that connects the stationary hopper and your > extruder hopper. When a sensor determines that > the smaller hopper is below a certain level, it > triggers a gravity feed of pellets down the tube > until the extruder hopper is filled to a certain &gby julianh72 - General
RepRapRaj83 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > .... With 10v > and 8 amps, I could get 80 watts going through the > HBP which is a start. I think this can be done > through my ATX PSU by using the +5 and -5 wires > (http://reprap.org/wiki/PCPowerSupply). I will see > if I can get this working and if so report back on > what kind of temperature itby julianh72 - General
I had a similar problem with mine, which I never really resolved - I can only assume that the manufacturing tolerances of my corner vertices were not perfect (which is only to be expected using “home-brew” RepRap fabricated components, after all!), so that the holes were not quite square and parallel through the vertices. Anyway, it turns out not to matter all that much - the smooth rods which cby julianh72 - Reprappers
Thanks for the link! I've seen Daz Studio and Bryce before, but this is the first time I've seen the Pro versions offered for free. Not sure how relevant they are to RepRap, but they're pretty interesting packages. I haven't seen Hexagon before, but it looks like it might be a good tool for making "organic" models (such as "character figurines") - most CAD packages (like OpenSCAD, Inventor, Alibrby julianh72 - General
I'm running Pronterface / SFACT successfully on a couple of computers, including a low-end Dell Inspiron 1545 notebook which is about 3 years old (2 GB RAM, integrated Intel graphics, 2-core CPU, Windows 7 - nothing fancy). The only thing it is slow at (compared to my much newer and faster work-supplied Dell Inspiron - quad-core i5, running Windows XP) is the time it takes to slice the imported Sby julianh72 - Reprappers
Bruce Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Looks like you've learned a lot already > > How not set up your machine > How not to print a wades block > How not to adjust your bed > How not to setup a slicing program > How not to set your temperature > How not to buy parts off Ebay without a good > accompanying closeup picture. > That's diby julianh72 - General Mendel Topics