Adman234 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > So far, this new printer seems promising. I can't > really find anything wrong with it, and I'm more > than happy to be a guinea pig. Good luck! From their website , it says: Here's what you will need: A PC with parallel port CNC control software such as Mach3, EMC2 or similar Basic soldering skills/tools to aby julianh72 - General
Adman234 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I will be going with the makergear prusa medel > kit, hopefully ordering it by late April. I can > only hope they remain in stock (with the heated > bed and 1.75mm filament) until then....... Not that I have anything specifically for (or against) MakerGear (or any of the other kit suppliers) - but if you are rby julianh72 - General
I was having a similar issue with my Prusa Mendel printer (although it was only tending to lean in one direction, not rocking back and forth). The problem turned out to be that I did not have enough compression in my levelling screw springs, so the whole build platform could rock to one side. Winding down all the levelling screws to put some real compression in the springs (and re-setting the Z eby julianh72 - Reprappers
Have you read the Wiki on how to convert a PC ATX power supply to a RepRap power supply? See: and My guess is that you haven't hooked up enough 12V lines from the power supply to the heated bed circuit. Assuming your heated bed isn't shorting out (overloading the 12V supply), and depending on what type of heated bed you are using, it should be drawing about 10A - 15A @ 12V (say 120W - 200W) -by julianh72 - RAMPS Electronics
Can you elaborate a bit on what is different with your attempts to print PLA bushings compared to other successful prints? That is, what are the characteristics of your "successful" prints (part size, wall thickness, filament, etc) that are significantly different to your "failed" attempts to print PLA bushings? One thought - you may have more success if you attempt to print a batch of 4 or 6 Pby julianh72 - Printing
From : D1, D2 - Diodes These must be placed in the proper orientation. The band on the diode must be turned the same way as the mark on the board. Definitely solder D2 in. D2, F1, and F2 are shown installed here. D1 should only be installed if the 5A rail is powered by 12V. It can be omitted and the Arduino will be powered from USB. You will want D1 installed if you add components to prinby julianh72 - RAMPS Electronics
alex_rycroft Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Well that makes three of us then. > I'm in for up to 4 rolls - check your PMs. Cheers!by julianh72 - Australia, Brisbane RepRap User Group
Is anyone up for another "group buy" of PLA filament from Vik? Prices have fluctuated, but still very reasonable: 20 @ NZ$33 ea + 3 free rolls, NZ$130 for slow-boat post, NZ$148 airmail. If you're after 30 we'll give 4 free rolls; carriage by courier NZ$216. The 20 rolls option sounds good - NZ$35.10 per roll delivered via air. Having bought some PLA recently from another vendor bby julianh72 - Australia, Brisbane RepRap User Group
alex_rycroft Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Julian! > > Good to know another reprapper in Brisvegas! > > How many do we need for a group buy? 3 or more? > > > Cheers, > > Alex. I have sent you a PM Cheers!by julianh72 - General
alex_rycroft Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello All, > > I have had my Mendel working great the last few > days printing PLA. Now I have just got to the end > of the 1lb of sample PLA that came with the > machine and switched over to the 5lb coil of > UltiMachine 4043D and everything has turned to > custard... > > The material keby julianh72 - General
OK, at the risk of over-complicating the whole issue: Atlas Steels provide an excellent "Technical Handbook of Bar Products" at: It goes into a great amount of detail on chemical composition, strength, toughness, ductility, hardness, machineablity, etc - there should be MORE than enough information for anybody! (I'm not sure that all this information will actually help anyone come up with theby julianh72 - General
zg_bot Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > well i think i just figured it out. > > when i bought my sdramps boards the company told > me to cut the pins off the ramps boards (pins > 44-55) plug the sdramps directly into the arduino > then put the ramps board on top. > > basically they told me to cut the pins of the Z > axis movement to fitby julianh72 - RAMPS Electronics
I'm always intrigued by recommendations to use "stainless steel - any grade" in preference to mild steel rods. Is this based on experience and research or just presumption? For the record, pretty well all grades of "steel" (mild, stainless, hardened tool steel, etc) have pretty the same stiffness / deflection characteristics as each other, because the Elastic Modulus / Young's Modulus of all grby julianh72 - General
Shibboleth Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > For your printer, it's preferable to use stainless > steel (any grade is fine). The mild steel ones > will corrode, and flex too much. It's also much > harder to get smooth rods which are completely > straight. I'm always intrigued by people's recommendations to use "stainless steel - any grade" in preferby julianh72 - Australia, Melbourne RUG
ahbtsang Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What I know from a Stratasys machine is > when the build layer is too thin (eg a vertial > wall), the printer will move everywhere making > hairy extrusions because it doesn't have a point > of reference. That was what I was told by the > rapidprototype technician, but I'm not sure if > this will happenby julianh72 - General
ahbtsang Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >I've heard of the > wrapping problem when using the Stratasys machines > and I've heard about similar problems with reprap. > Can somebody explain to me, or show me information > what that actually is?? Ummm ... would that be the problem that a RepRap is such an awkward shape that it is just about impossibleby julianh72 - General
My experience is that once you have "tuned" your RepRap so that it can print neatly, the Support material breaks away very easily with just your fingers / thumbnail. You might need a little bit of work with tweezers or a pocket knife to just scrape the last couple of "dags" off, but on the whole, no, you won't need to do any "machining" to achieve a finish comparable to the overall RepRap print qby julianh72 - General
To clarify, in SFACT settings, activate the "Raft" tab, and then choose your preferred "Support Material Choice" - "Exterior Only" works well for me.by julianh72 - General
bryanandaimee Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > So for those who like the CNC paradigm and have a > parallel port on their computer (almost everyone?) > $350 would be the total cost to get started. Almost nobody has a parallel port these days, do they? USB - sure - but parallel?by julianh72 - General
Hmmm ... Then maybe we shouldn't refer to "Newton's" Theory of Gravity, or "Darwin's" Theory of Evolution? On the shouders of giants and all that ... I'm perfectly happy to acknowledge that I have built a "Prusa Mendel"!by julianh72 - General Mendel Topics
jkomp316 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The chassis is but one component of the device. ... but a pretty important one - let's give the guy his due credit! His work in simplifying and reducing the cost of the Mendel has been an important factor in the explosive rise of RepRap in 2011. I'd be prepared to bet there are probabaly more Prusas (and derivatives)by julianh72 - General Mendel Topics
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Also, you should just > use Marlin firmware.It's a bit more advanced than > Sprinter. There are less jagged edges around > circles and curves since it looks ahead to the > next move to figure out if it needs to slow down. > Curse you, brnrd!!! Despite my previous claim that I wouldn't be changing my fby julianh72 - General
My $0.02 worth: Note: What follows is not the ONLY software option, and it may not even be "the best" (whatever that means!), but it is simple, and it works for me! You need the Arduino software installed on your computer to be able to edit and upload firmware to the Arduino Mega. Without the Arduino host on your computer, you ain't going anywhere! You need to choose some firmware - there areby julianh72 - General
asifjahmed Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > -Wireless printing capability (ideally wi-fi) Wireless you can have! Check out my blog: (Using XBee, not conventional WiFi, but the net effect is pretty much the same - control your RepRap from anywhere in the house.) Sorry - I can't help you with your other 5 wishes. (Oh well, one out of five ain't so bad!)by julianh72 - General
Partly in response to a forum posting on the subject of "Open Source Appropriate Technology" (OSAT), and partly as a "work in progress" that I had been tinkering with anyway, I have posted a design concept on Thingiverse for a simple test rig for testing the strength of RepRap beam test pieces. I am also tracking the development of my concept on my blog: If people think this idea has any meriby julianh72 - General
ostrich99 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The model that I received has some terminal > covers, but yes, they are still slightly exposed > so you wouldn't want young kids around them. > Although I wouldn't want young kids around any of > my 3D printers when they were plugged in as most > likely the printer is running at 225C on the > extruderby julianh72 - General
ostrich99 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I started to use an ATX power supply for my Prusa > build, but then looked at Adrian's Prusa Build > notes on the wiki and noticed he uses a nice > compact power supply that outputs 12v DC with 30A. > I found them on ebay for about 28 bucks each I > think, so if you are buying something for power, I >by julianh72 - General
Well done! It's pretty exciting when your own creation starts making "stuff", isn't it?! My only advice? Don't worry about "pretty" - it's the functionality that counts. I don't know about everyone else - but I don't WANT my RepRap to look like I bought it from an electrical appliance store!by julianh72 - General
I'll cast a vote for: . RAMPS (I'm using 1.4, but 1.2+ should be fine) . Sprinter Firmware . PronterFace / SFACT Software Why? Well, to quote a certain fruity electronics company: "It just works!" And it will support the heated bed right off the RAMPS Board (no need for a second power supply, as long as your primary power supply has enough "grunt"), it's very customisable and hackable, and thby julianh72 - Controllers
julianh72 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm still keen for the OP to upload a sample model > so we (the RepRap community) can have a go. I > would LOVE to be proved wrong, by a RepRapper > making some 50 mm high figurines with exquisite > fine detail! I'm still somewhat sceptical of the ability of current-day RepRap to make finely detailed "figuby julianh72 - General