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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Spherical slicing - 4 years ago
I uploaded a short video showing a spherical print:by fma - Experimental
Re: Spherical slicing - 4 years ago
Is it not just what other slicers call 'vase mode'?by fma - Experimental
Re: Spherical slicing - 4 years ago
First results are encouraging! Note: the french page contain more informations, and photos:by fma - Experimental
Re: Spherical slicing - 4 years ago
Mmm, in fact, it is complicated to post-process the G-Code, as the new axes are not linear. It is better to implement it in the firmware, and split moves into segments, as it is done for a Delta printer.by fma - Experimental
Re: Spherical slicing - 4 years ago
Ok, I started to work on that idea. I think I successfully mapped the sphere on the plan : . I'm now working on the kinematic (post-processing the G-Code file).by fma - Experimental
Re: Spherical slicing - 4 years ago
Well, when I said build a printer, it is more adapting my CoreXY. And the problem is I don't have enough room to only use A,B, Z; this would require to have the rotation point matching the radius of the sphere, but if I do that, the bed will collide with Z rods. So, I need to use shorter radius for A and B rotation, so I need to correct with X/Y. But, as said, the machine is not the problem: theby fma - Experimental
Spherical slicing - 4 years ago
Hi! I'm currently building a BB-8 robot, and I want it mostly 3D-printed, without any post-printing process (sanding/painting): I like the 3D-printed look I already printed the dome, and I'm now working on the body. The inner frame is a combination of 3D-printed parts and laser-cut parts. Next are the body panels, which are sphere portions. I could print them flat, but it would require a lot oby fma - Experimental
Re: Custom bed flexplate system - 5 years ago
Ok, I will try a magnetic foil too. Thanks.by fma - General
Re: Custom bed flexplate system - 5 years ago
Thanks for the feedback. I plan to drill and put some magnets directly in 5mm aluminium sheet (bed), to get a very good heat transfert between bed and plates (I'm waiting for a few magnets to make tests, and determine how much magnets I should use). May I ask you where you get some magnetic stainless steel? What thickness do you use? Thanks,by fma - General
Custom bed flexplate system - 5 years ago
Hi! I'm about to make a heatbed with magnetic base and flexplates, using spring steel sheet (C75 or so). I made some tests with a standard steel sheet, and 0.5mm seems to be too much.What thickness do you suggest to use for the spring steel sheet: 0.3mm or 0.4mm? Does anyone know what is the BuildTak FlexPlate thickness? Thanks,by fma - General
Re: How to print a very small model? - 5 years ago
I talked to Morgan in private (and in french ), and suggested to switch from Cura to Slic3r. Cura makes an horrible job on the first layer, as it does not slow down small perimeters, and prints 1 wall of each perimeter at a time, which tends to rip it out when moving (at travelling speed) to the next perimeter... (I asked Cura devs to change that, but they don't want to). I think this is the maby fma - Printing
Re: How to print a very small model? - 5 years ago
It is strange that the cylinders don't stick to the raft... Did you tune the extruder ratio? Just print a 20x20x3 square, et adjust this param until you get a perfect top surface. You should not get gap between wires (not enough plastic), nor bumps (too much plastic). I also suggest you insulate the bottom of your hotend, to avoid too much heat on the printed parts. And you should try to increaby fma - Printing
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 5 years ago
Not the V6, the *Lite6*... Yes, I do think that the *Lite6* heatsink is mainly here to be able to mount the hotend. It is a low-cost drop-in replacement of the V6. The heatsink as the same dimensions so you can use the same mounts, extruders... The V6 heatsink is another story, as it is not the same design.by fma - General
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 5 years ago
QuotefrankvdhMy thinking is that 6mm PTFE might not have much depth into an M6 thread, so the brass tube would stop the PTFE from collapsing and therefore stay in the fitting better. Well, it seems that some people are using threaded 4mm PTFE on the extruder side. The problem on hotend side is the temperature, which may soften the PTFE. I will test this config next week. If it does not last longby fma - General
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 5 years ago
Quotefrankvdh lists Teflon tube 030060PT 3*6mm 3mm 6mm Gas or liquid; `-190 to 280 degrees Celsius If 3mm ID is too big, you could maybe use a 2*3mm tube inside that? Teflon tube 020030PT 2*3mm 2mm 3mm Gas or liquid; `-190 to 280 degrees Celsius Thanks for the links and suggestion of tube in tube! QuoteOr probably better would be a 2*2.9mm metal inner tube. You're suggesting to put a shoby fma - General
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 5 years ago
Quotedeckingman I'm still not sure where you are going with this? Why don't you want to use the standard configuration and just fit 3 lite 6 heat sinks? They work fine on the 3 colour version. Yes, but if they are only usefull for fixation, why bother with such huge piece of metal? And if it works, it could solve your problems with the 5 colours... And make a cheaper config.by fma - General
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 5 years ago
I'm wondering if threading a PTFE tube of OD6mm (or 1/4") ID2 could do the job... Does anyone now where I can buy such PTFE tube?by fma - General
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 5 years ago
Ok, I found a way to insert the PTFE into the Diamond hotend with a very short stuff: My first idea was to drill/thread a M6x6 hexagonal screw, but as I ordered a few weeks ago these fits, I just used one to make the job without Lathe. I just cut the top part (press fit), and threaded the bottom M6 part: the nice thing is the hole was already 3.4mm, so perfect for M4! And as it is brass, it iby fma - General
Re: How to print a very small model? - 5 years ago
Nice! I will try to find E3D adapter... Thanks.by fma - Printing
Re: How to print a very small model? - 5 years ago
What does an airbrush nozzle looke like?by fma - Printing
Re: How to print a very small model? - 5 years ago
I printed ABS for several years, before switching to PLA, and I always used part fan. But it was made of a tube (OD8,ID6), and an aquarium pump. It was blowing just a little, at the nozzle output. It does not make the part warp, and helps a lot on such small parts.by fma - Printing
Re: pictorial print issue identifier - 5 years ago
Our hackerspace started this 'Reprap Print Doctor': But it is in french...by fma - Printing
Re: How to print a very small model? - 5 years ago
Do you have to use ABS? It is not the easiest material for that... I recently printed such small objects, but with PLA. And I used a good one (noname, translucide). If you have to use ABS, buy a *very* good one (if you can put your hand on Stratasys ABS, it is amazing). A few advices: 1) print very slowly (30mm.s⁻² is a maximum) 2) insulate the bottom of your hotend, to avoid too much heat onby fma - Printing
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 5 years ago
Ian, I just read your last blog post, about the Diamond 'full' color. Very impressive feedback! About using more perimeters to allow the purge, you could also try to print infill first, so you have plenty of filament length to do that purge, so 2 perimeters should work. Except for the last 2 layers of each top surface where you need to purge outside of the print (I already made the system youby fma - General
Re: Replicape + BBB - 5 years ago
I'll send you a private message in a couple of hours... Thanks.by fma - For Sale
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 5 years ago
Thanks for the feedback! I was monitoring you blog for that What about trying water cooling? A simple solution would be to use a little silicone tube wrapped around the base of the heatsinks... There won't be a good thermal contact, but it may help. A copper maidenhair would be better, but you will need a powerfull pump...by fma - General
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 5 years ago
The temperature was 200°C. What puzzle me is I made, a few days ago, a spacial support, to have the heatsink free, and I had issues with retract. Here, all was fine.by fma - General
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 5 years ago
This week-end I printed a small part, and at the end of the print, I just realized that the E3D Lite6 fan was unplugged! But the part printed without problem, without stringing or so. The PLA mount didn't suffer. Go figure...by fma - General