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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: FLSUN SR: direct-drive and water-cooling - 1 year ago
Thanks for sharing your design! Nice hotend! I like very much the integrated fan duct... On my previous DIY printer, I used a FNU hotend, which was made in one part, nozzle + looong heat-break, so it couldn't clog at all. I also designed an extruder using Bondtech double-gear, and both were working really great for more than 3 years, without any maintenance. Anyway, for this new design, I tby fma - Delta Machines
Re: FLSUN SR: direct-drive and water-cooling - 1 year ago
Another question: in the separate cooling part version (which also better handles the extruder with 4 screws instead of 2), is it better to have the PTFE tube go through it, down to the heatbreak: or to avoid PTFE in the cooling part: The first solution has less friction, but the second solution allows the filament to be cooled up to the extruder...by fma - Delta Machines
Re: FLSUN SR: direct-drive and water-cooling - 1 year ago
Thanks for these advices! I'm using a direct drive extruder, but my goal is to print high temperature materials, like ABS or Nylon, so I think I need a good cooling. For PLA, the effector alone may be enough. BTW, yes, I plan to have the effector 3D printed in metal (aluminium), not in plasticby fma - Delta Machines
Re: FLSUN SR: direct-drive and water-cooling - 1 year ago
My first idea was to have the effector CNC milled, but I may try to have it 3D printed, and integrate the water circuit into it. I cant go around the heat break, because of the mounting system; do you think it will be enough?by fma - Delta Machines
Re: FLSUN SR: direct-drive and water-cooling - 1 year ago
Ok, so let's got for water cooling! Thanks.by fma - Delta Machines
Re: FLSUN SR: direct-drive and water-cooling - 1 year ago
Thanks for you feedback! About the pipes, I first wanted to use a fan, as Propper Printing did; do you think it would be enough in an enclosed setup? I may not need a water cooling system, after all... BTW, I know the Zatsit design, and even ordered one! But I never got it, as the guy had to drop the entire project for health reasons.by fma - Delta Machines
FLSUN SR: direct-drive and water-cooling - 1 year ago
Hi! Last year, I replaced my big home-made CoreXY 3D printer with a used FLSUN SR. This is a nice printer, but I don't like Bowden extruders¹. So, I recently replaced the SR one with an Orbiter (using the original hotend). As I would like to print special filaments, like ABS, ABS+glass fiber/carbon, or even PC/POM, I plan to make an enclosure, and use a better extruder and hotend (I chose a Bonby fma - Delta Machines
Re: Spherical slicing - 5 years ago
I uploaded a short video showing a spherical print:by fma - Experimental
Re: Spherical slicing - 5 years ago
Is it not just what other slicers call 'vase mode'?by fma - Experimental
Re: Spherical slicing - 5 years ago
First results are encouraging! Note: the french page contain more informations, and photos:by fma - Experimental
Re: Spherical slicing - 5 years ago
Mmm, in fact, it is complicated to post-process the G-Code, as the new axes are not linear. It is better to implement it in the firmware, and split moves into segments, as it is done for a Delta printer.by fma - Experimental
Re: Spherical slicing - 5 years ago
Ok, I started to work on that idea. I think I successfully mapped the sphere on the plan : . I'm now working on the kinematic (post-processing the G-Code file).by fma - Experimental
Re: Spherical slicing - 5 years ago
Well, when I said build a printer, it is more adapting my CoreXY. And the problem is I don't have enough room to only use A,B, Z; this would require to have the rotation point matching the radius of the sphere, but if I do that, the bed will collide with Z rods. So, I need to use shorter radius for A and B rotation, so I need to correct with X/Y. But, as said, the machine is not the problem: theby fma - Experimental
Spherical slicing - 5 years ago
Hi! I'm currently building a BB-8 robot, and I want it mostly 3D-printed, without any post-printing process (sanding/painting): I like the 3D-printed look I already printed the dome, and I'm now working on the body. The inner frame is a combination of 3D-printed parts and laser-cut parts. Next are the body panels, which are sphere portions. I could print them flat, but it would require a lot oby fma - Experimental
Re: Custom bed flexplate system - 7 years ago
Ok, I will try a magnetic foil too. Thanks.by fma - General
Re: Custom bed flexplate system - 7 years ago
Thanks for the feedback. I plan to drill and put some magnets directly in 5mm aluminium sheet (bed), to get a very good heat transfert between bed and plates (I'm waiting for a few magnets to make tests, and determine how much magnets I should use). May I ask you where you get some magnetic stainless steel? What thickness do you use? Thanks,by fma - General
Custom bed flexplate system - 7 years ago
Hi! I'm about to make a heatbed with magnetic base and flexplates, using spring steel sheet (C75 or so). I made some tests with a standard steel sheet, and 0.5mm seems to be too much.What thickness do you suggest to use for the spring steel sheet: 0.3mm or 0.4mm? Does anyone know what is the BuildTak FlexPlate thickness? Thanks,by fma - General
Re: How to print a very small model? - 7 years ago
I talked to Morgan in private (and in french ), and suggested to switch from Cura to Slic3r. Cura makes an horrible job on the first layer, as it does not slow down small perimeters, and prints 1 wall of each perimeter at a time, which tends to rip it out when moving (at travelling speed) to the next perimeter... (I asked Cura devs to change that, but they don't want to). I think this is the maby fma - Printing
Re: How to print a very small model? - 7 years ago
It is strange that the cylinders don't stick to the raft... Did you tune the extruder ratio? Just print a 20x20x3 square, et adjust this param until you get a perfect top surface. You should not get gap between wires (not enough plastic), nor bumps (too much plastic). I also suggest you insulate the bottom of your hotend, to avoid too much heat on the printed parts. And you should try to increaby fma - Printing
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 7 years ago
Not the V6, the *Lite6*... Yes, I do think that the *Lite6* heatsink is mainly here to be able to mount the hotend. It is a low-cost drop-in replacement of the V6. The heatsink as the same dimensions so you can use the same mounts, extruders... The V6 heatsink is another story, as it is not the same design.by fma - General
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 7 years ago
QuotefrankvdhMy thinking is that 6mm PTFE might not have much depth into an M6 thread, so the brass tube would stop the PTFE from collapsing and therefore stay in the fitting better. Well, it seems that some people are using threaded 4mm PTFE on the extruder side. The problem on hotend side is the temperature, which may soften the PTFE. I will test this config next week. If it does not last longby fma - General
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 7 years ago
Quotefrankvdh lists Teflon tube 030060PT 3*6mm 3mm 6mm Gas or liquid; `-190 to 280 degrees Celsius If 3mm ID is too big, you could maybe use a 2*3mm tube inside that? Teflon tube 020030PT 2*3mm 2mm 3mm Gas or liquid; `-190 to 280 degrees Celsius Thanks for the links and suggestion of tube in tube! QuoteOr probably better would be a 2*2.9mm metal inner tube. You're suggesting to put a shoby fma - General
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 7 years ago
Quotedeckingman I'm still not sure where you are going with this? Why don't you want to use the standard configuration and just fit 3 lite 6 heat sinks? They work fine on the 3 colour version. Yes, but if they are only usefull for fixation, why bother with such huge piece of metal? And if it works, it could solve your problems with the 5 colours... And make a cheaper config.by fma - General
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 7 years ago
I'm wondering if threading a PTFE tube of OD6mm (or 1/4") ID2 could do the job... Does anyone now where I can buy such PTFE tube?by fma - General
Re: Diamond hotends heatsink - 7 years ago
Ok, I found a way to insert the PTFE into the Diamond hotend with a very short stuff: My first idea was to drill/thread a M6x6 hexagonal screw, but as I ordered a few weeks ago these fits, I just used one to make the job without Lathe. I just cut the top part (press fit), and threaded the bottom M6 part: the nice thing is the hole was already 3.4mm, so perfect for M4! And as it is brass, it iby fma - General
Re: How to print a very small model? - 7 years ago
Nice! I will try to find E3D adapter... Thanks.by fma - Printing
Re: How to print a very small model? - 7 years ago
What does an airbrush nozzle looke like?by fma - Printing
Re: How to print a very small model? - 7 years ago
I printed ABS for several years, before switching to PLA, and I always used part fan. But it was made of a tube (OD8,ID6), and an aquarium pump. It was blowing just a little, at the nozzle output. It does not make the part warp, and helps a lot on such small parts.by fma - Printing
Re: pictorial print issue identifier - 7 years ago
Our hackerspace started this 'Reprap Print Doctor': But it is in french...by fma - Printing
Re: How to print a very small model? - 7 years ago
Do you have to use ABS? It is not the easiest material for that... I recently printed such small objects, but with PLA. And I used a good one (noname, translucide). If you have to use ABS, buy a *very* good one (if you can put your hand on Stratasys ABS, it is amazing). A few advices: 1) print very slowly (30mm.s⁻² is a maximum) 2) insulate the bottom of your hotend, to avoid too much heat onby fma - Printing