Hi! Just wanted to share something I discovered a few days ago, after some experimentations... I'm now able to print on a glass without any additionnal stuff (ABS juice, sugar, hair spray...)! The secret: just sand the surface! Ok, that's not an easy task, as you have to take big sandpaper (I found 24), and scrap for a long time (glass is hard!). But the result is really amazing! This idea caby fma - Reprappers
Yes, yes, YES!!!! Great job! I can now print faster than ever Keep on doing such good job!by fma - Repetier
I tested the hack as shown above, but it does seem to change anything, whatever the value I use... BTW, I was able to run the second script with speeds up to 500mm/s and accel ~5000mm/s² Ok, the tork falls dramatically, and as soon as I touch the bed, the motor looses steps...by fma - Repetier
My printer is an ORD Bot Hadron. In fact, the problem only occurs with travel moves, which are very fast (250mm/s). My above tests use this speed, and I found that increasing the jerk reduces the problem (starting from null speed after a Z move). But with a high jerk, the 180° turn does not work anymore (I can clearly ear that the motor looses a lot of steps). Ok, during printing moves, I can'by fma - Repetier
Can you confirm the start speed is computed in the safeSpeed() function? Is it OK if I do: inline float safeSpeed(PrintLine *p) { float safe; #ifdef USE_ADVANCE if((p->dir & 128) && printer_state.isAdvanceActivated()) { safe = min(p->fullSpeed,printer_state.minimumSpeed); } else #endif safe = min(p->fullSpeed,max(printer_state.minimumSpeed,prby fma - Repetier
Ok, for the start speed; I understand why increasing the jerk (~200-300) was helping! But then, the standard jerk computation was leading to bad movement. So, I think this is the issue: we need a start speed param which can be set much higher than jerk/2. I can give this idea a try: can you point me in the code where you compute this start speed? I will try to put a start speed not from jerk, tby fma - Repetier
Just checked with v0.82.2: same problem. I made some scripts to tests params. First script: G90 G1 Z5 F150 G1 X25 Y25 F15000 G91 G1 Z0.1 F150 G1 X100 Y100 F15000 G1 Z0.1 F150 G1 X-100 Y-100 F15000 G1 Z0.1 F150 G1 X100 Y100 F15000 G1 Z0.1 F150 G1 X-100 Y-100 F15000 G1 Z0.1 F150 G1 X100 Y100 F15000 G1 Z0.1 F150 G1 X-100 Y-100 F15000 G1 Z0.1 F150 G1 X100 Y100 F15000 G1 Z0.1 F150 G1 X-100 Y-100 F1by fma - Repetier
What precise switch are your refering? You mean to use such thing a low endstop? Or as specific Z probe? Is it mechnical or light-base switch?by fma - Repetier
Mmm, I may have said something wrong. In fact, the noise comes from X axis, but the shift problems occur on Y!!! Could it be a timing problem in the step generator or something? I have no way to monitor signals going to stepper amplifier... I will also give a try to last firmware version, as soon as I have time.by fma - Repetier
Thanks for your answer. BTW, I tried to reduce the acceleration (500mm/s², inseatd of 2000mm/s²), and it is better. But slower! What are the standard values for all the speeds/accel/jerk and so? I also may have a bad combination...by fma - Repetier
Ok, but it is not easy to adjust while printing; we need to keep an eye on the print, so it should not require to enter complex commands. That's why I was thinking about 2 dedicated hard keys directly binded to the motor pulse...by fma - Repetier
So, nobody has this problem? I'm pretty sure it's a firmware issue, as it only occurs when motors are disabled. I think that the firmware disables the X/Y axis when Z moves, leading to the issue after each layer. Moves whithin the layer are perfect, even at very high speed (>150mm/s)...by fma - Repetier
I have another request regarding jogging: could it be possible to have a way to adjust the Z axis while printing? This could be very helpfull to adjust the first layer, during the first seconds of extrusion, to have a perfect sticking... The idea is to send steps to the motor whithout using the planer or so, as it is only to adjust the zero position, in fact. This could also be with 2 push buttby fma - Repetier
Hi, I'm using an Azteeg X3 controller with repetier firmware and I have a strange motor behaviour. When motors are disabled, the first move on the Y axis often generated a short noise ("CLAC') when it starts. It also occurs on the first Y move after each Z move. And it sometime produces a shift in the print, especially if I print faster. Someone suggested that the firmware may disable the motoby fma - Repetier
Hi, I plan to make a hotend mount as on attached picture (yellow part). I tried a close design with ABS, but the heat was to important (I need to heat the hotend at 255°C for the ABS I use), and it started to melt. I was wondering if Shapeways Alumide should be enough to resist? Or should I switch to Stainless Steel? Thanks for advice.by fma - General
Mmm, so pressure@0,2mm is 5 times the pressure@0,3mm! It increases pretty fast! It is not a problem to slow down the speed, but I hope my direct drive extruder will be able to push the filament! What about the temperature? How do you adjust it, when reducing the nozzle size? Does it make sens to increase it, so the ABS is more runny?by fma - Printing
I just asked GRRF, and they can make 0.2mm nozzle. I'm currently using a 0.3mm GRRF nozzle (for 1.75mm filament), and I tried yesterday night layers of 0.075mm. It worked fine, but XY accuracy does not seem to be improved over 0.1mm layers. Is it because 0.3mm is to high for the nozzle hole? Do you think I can get better details on XY using a 0.2mm nozzle? Are there some known issues using sucby fma - Printing
ABS/PLA quality is also a very important factor when printing small parts. Cooling too!by fma - General
Does anyone tried this 'Smart' ABS: Is it really smart?by fma - General
I have a question: I often read that a good nozzle should have a very short transition between solid and melted plastic. This is why most designs use PTFE and PEEK. What happens in an entirely metal hot-end? Is not the temperature gradiant too large? Where does the plastic really melt?by fma - General
Hi! I recently switched to a 1.75mm nozzle (from GGRF), and I'm about to buy ABS. My first ABS (3mm) was from Ultimachine. I then bough ABS from Paoparts. Ultimachine ABS was good, but a little bit yellow. The Paoparts ABS was pure white (very nice), but had more shrinkage, and was more brittle (cohesion between layers was not as good as with Ultimachine one). What ABS do you use? I mainly priby fma - General
@wendy, I didn't write any build procedure yet, as I didn't a complete one myself! I hope to do that soon, but I have a lot of things to do at the same time! I will post here as soon as I have news.by fma - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Hi, I have a nice GRRF hot-end for 3mm filament, with a 0.3mm nozzle, which I'm currently using with a geared extruder (Wade). I'm wondering if it is possible to drive such hot-end configuration with a direct drive extruder (= a Nema17 motor without any reducer)? Or do I have to switch to a 1.7mm filament hot-end? Thanks,by fma - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Parallel axis robot?by fma - Delta Machines
Thanks for these advices!by fma - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Good idea. I was planning to use simple paint for models, but a varnish is better.by fma - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Ok, I finally released a version which is close to the final one: I'm waiting for the magnets to test and calibrate it. Any feedback welcome.by fma - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)