If you did that with 0.2mm layer height check the Z axis is calibrated correctly as it looks a bit high. With detailed small prints its best to drop the speed right down as well as the temperature. Its much better then my first prints I fubar'd so many cubes...by JoeDaStudd - General
Its worth giving Slic3r a shot. RichRap covers setting the program up and tips/tricks on his blog (link). I was able to get decent prints from the off (I'm a complete newbie). ps I found the thin wall hollow objects help a lot when your calibrating.by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
Download the compressed sprinter file from github. Extract into a directory. Open configuration.h Change the motherboard to 33, save and close. Open Arduino (I use 0.23), File -> Open select sprinter.pde from the folder you extracted. Check the Board is set to your Arduino board and the com port is correct. Press compile If it compiles without any errors press upload. Job done.by JoeDaStudd - General
I'm a bit lost with what being on the pilot entails (its pretty vague). I buy a cheap a demo system with consumables, do testing giving feedback then get the finished product for free?by JoeDaStudd - General
To start with it was the first 2 or 3 layers then slip, print upto the last 2 or 3 layers then slip. After adjusting the current it removed the slip on the last 2 or 3 layers. I think I've solved the issue, but I'll run some more prints tonight then update this post with the fix/cause just incase anyone is having the same issue. UPDATE It was the large washer holding the X belt, after updatingby JoeDaStudd - Printing
Hi, Im having slight issues with my prints. For some reason the bottom 2 or 3 layers print fine then the following layers jump to the left. The first layers do complete fine. I've tried: Changing the x axis stepper current Adjusting the belt Replaced the washer (it was rubbing slightly) Its gotten much better, but still happening and noticable (much less after replacing the washer). Anyone gby JoeDaStudd - Printing
I had some trouble with the thermal pads my stepper drivers came with so I used some old silver based cpu thermal paste. I can't remember if it was as thick when it was new, but it almost like a glue. So far its working like a charm and it hasn't even pasted its burn in period.by JoeDaStudd - General
Most of the applications (for slicing, hosting or creating) use generic languages like Python so they should work on either platform.by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
She annoyed quite a bit with her sales pitch. The amount of times "colouring book simple" was mentioned was silly. My biggest pet hate about that video was how she was saying (well at least how I took it) only print designs we have sanctioned or designs we create for you. Its like saying buy this inkjet printer, but you'll only want to print stock images or images we create for you. You buy a pby JoeDaStudd - General
I did the same thing on my build. Its a lot lot easier to just move them to the opposite sides. I spent a few hours to get the software to work as well as manually moving the endstop connections on the ramps board. In the end i gave up and just moved the endstops.by JoeDaStudd - General
Never mind I'm a fool Sorry to waste your time.by JoeDaStudd - Slic3r
The Z coupling are nophead's with the 4 bolts right? You need some plastic tubing around the motor shaft (it helps cancel the Z wobble).by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
Hi, I'm not sure if there is a setting or if its a bug, but when slicing an object the bottom 2 layers print fine then all following layers print to the left. I've checked the gcode and it does jump after the first 2 layers, it also seems to happen with the top 2 layers. The jump varies massively, I can slice a file 3 times with the same settings and it will jump 3 different amounts. Anyone hby JoeDaStudd - Slic3r
Double check the nozzle size, it looks a little off on the walls (could be the x and y axis but check the nozzle first). If the nozzle size is correct then try one of the hollow calibration objects (with with the base and wall). It could be the belts or x/y steps per mm.by JoeDaStudd - General
Prusa mendel is simpler to build and cheaper. You could always change to lm8uu bearings later or simply start with them (a lot of people are now selling the plastics for lm8uu parts). Gregs is great extruder and is the only one ive used so i cant compare. Yep those are 2 of the best electonic solutions out.by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
If the person your buying it from hasn't used it before ask them to ensure every part is there. Botmill had a habit of sending kits with missing parts or giving the buyer an iou and sending the part(s) later. Luckily your buying it via a third party as a lot of the issues with Botmill as actually getting the product in the first place.by JoeDaStudd - General
Thank you all, I love this community . NelsonRap, I noticed the blue tape peeling after a print or two. I do plan on moving to a heated bed in the future, but at the moment my Prusa has sucked up enough cash. nb99, interesting point. I purposely avoided glass for the base plate as I've had my fair share of heat broken glass. I'll look into it though. julianh72, perfect I think I glanced over yby JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
It seems 1. Is caused by either a short or a iffy connection on one of the endstops.by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
Check out nophead's Mendel90, he's due to release the files soon. It looks like a very simple and effective build, it should translate over pretty well into metal.by JoeDaStudd - General
Hi, After a lot of tinkering I've finally got my Prusa running, but I've got a few things I would like to straighten out. 1. When homing using PrintRun the X and Y axis press then switch (I hear the click) then continue to drive for a few seconds. Its more noticeable on the Y axis where is does it for about 2 seconds. Is there a setting I've missed? They don't do this with the Z axis. 2. I didby JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
You have to remember even if you make the frame using laser cut metal you still need to buy the smooth bars, short threaded bars, belts and the smaller nuts, bolts and washers in order to attach the standard printed parts. Your talking about saving maybe £/$10 to £/$20 by making the frame in laser cut metal and about £/$2 making the print bed. Thats if your not paying for the raw metal, power orby JoeDaStudd - General
If you go with a Prusa make sure you use iteration 2 files. A lot of the parts have been tweaked for easier assembly as well as all round performanceby JoeDaStudd - General
Its worth noting a heated print bed is considered essential for good quality ABS prints, with PLA its less important.by JoeDaStudd - General
In explorer (windows explorer not internet ) do the following; Folder options -> View -> Hide extensions for known file types. Personally I use notepad++ or similar to edit the files straight from explorer.by JoeDaStudd - General
I had that issue with FF9, but since the update to 10 it seems to have fixed itself.by JoeDaStudd - General
I like the idea of a power or pellet extruder however the technical issues you have to over come are pretty big. A big concern of mine (which hasn't been asked) is the weight of the extruder, both loaded and unloaded. At the moment most extruder only carry a fraction of the overall filament weight. ie you can have a 4kg spool feeding the machine but the extruder only holds a few grams of the weiby JoeDaStudd - General
The 3 main contenders (in my eyes) are the RAMPS, Sanguinololu and Gen 7. RAMPS, costs a bit more but is the most modular. The non re-usable part of the board is only about 1/3 of the overall cost. Sanguinololu, is like one of the older RAMPS without the S. Cheap and a good choice for a starter board. Gen 7, is the Gen boards meets Sanguinololu. The only trouble with Gen 7 is its still a WIP andby JoeDaStudd - Controllers
Sorry i meant there are plans on how to build your own 3d scanner on thingiverse. There is some info on the reprap wiki Free scanner software + designs for a cheap scanner.by JoeDaStudd - General
Just wondering where the 10k figuire came from? Its doable on a budget of 1k if you buy a kit then help him construct it (nice father/son project). There are a few 3d scanner designs on thingiverse which only cost a few a small amount.by JoeDaStudd - General
Hi all, I've just finished my build (finally) and was about to start the calibration when I noticed one of the steppers (y) was turning, but not actually moving the belt. Without an pressure on the drive it turns, however the moment any pressure is applied it stays still. Once its stopped it holds (like it should), but the moment its in motion it will slip (its possible to turn it in the oppositby JoeDaStudd - Controllers