Do the position values in your G-Code double? The program repetier lets you visualizes the G-code in 3D. If your G-code is fine, then I bet Nophead is right, it changes micro stepping values for some reason.by Idolcrasher - General
I wouldn't hold it against them if they sent me a commissioned printer Hell, I would trade the o'le H-1 and her CNC board here for a complete RAMPS or RAMBO H-1.1 setup, commissioned or not I would do that in a heart beat.by Idolcrasher - General
Dark Alchemist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Idol laid it out pretty well before he removed his > post so I will not rehash what he said but he was > spot on. Listen to this man and what he said. > > Idol, if he follows through with what you asked > then he really is a good guy just naive about the > marketing aspect of all of this and hoby Idolcrasher - General
> And lastly, Idol, I'm still truly sorry for your > bad experience, and If there's anything, anything > at all I can do to maek it right, you name it. > We've struggled as any would, but I feel like > where we are better is our service afterwards, so > I'll make you a deal right here. If you pack up > your kit, whatever the condition it currently is > in, hell burnt toby Idolcrasher - General
Post Removed By Author - I did not see John had written to make a mends.by Idolcrasher - General
Also, be sure that your gcode keeps the nozzel inside the printer area defined in your firmware. If it ever leaves that Pre-defined area, your firmware (depending on what you got) might say "NO!"by Idolcrasher - General
What Baud rate are you using? If you are using 250000, drop to 115200 and see if that does not fix you up. You will need to make this change in the Config.h file of your firmware and the within the host program you are using to run the printer (you mentioned pronterface, you should give Repetier a shot if you PC is powerful) Bet ya a buck that fixes your problemby Idolcrasher - General
Can you setup the ability to print form an SD card to see if it still happens? This way you could narrow down if it is a PC problem or not...by Idolcrasher - General
Anything peculiar in your G-Code at that moment?by Idolcrasher - General
johnoly99 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > All good points Idol, and appreciate it. We are > going to be doing a video assembly of the rostock > for sure, it goes together MUCH faster than the H > printers do. I'm posting my firmware as we speak. Nice. May we have a link please?by Idolcrasher - General
MACH3 is proprietary software. Your kit came with a board ment to run on MACH3. Yes, I am familiar with Ubuntu and Linux and general, and yes I am aware of EMC2 for Linux. And yes, your printer can run other electronics. I employ a RAMPS board on my H-1, and the CNC board I recieved sits bubble wrapped on my shelf.by Idolcrasher - General
> Last but not least, I didn't remember seeing any > emails from you. I recognized your username from > on here, but maybe you had a different one on the > yahoo group or forum? Honestly, call/email/post > anytime, It's 6:00 AM here, and I'm up reading > this and re-postinng because I care about guys > like you and getting their printer running. > Skype, IRC, however, I'by Idolcrasher - General
It is simply nice to have a groomed up firmware for when you are getting started; yes, of course it will need calibration either way, it is simply helpful. In the beginning, when you are getting started (and have no idea what you are doing) it can be pretty difficult to fight with temp tables, and calculate steps per mm based on micro stepping values etc. Keep in mind, a mass produced kit willby Idolcrasher - General
Hi John and SeeMeCNC, I have found your SeeMeCNC kits to be made of good quality materials at a good price. Unfortunately, I have been disappointed by: *Poor build instructions (poor accessibility, available late after printer release) *Your past use of traditional CNC Control Boards over RAMPS, SANGUINO etc. *Lack of a SeeMeCNC release of Sprinter/Marlin Firmware Specific to your printersby Idolcrasher - General
Dark Alchemist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am not talking just about the looks of the > printer. Remember you need to think outside of > the box and the box is not just the hardware that > makes up RepRap it is also the software and the > attitude/outlook of just going along to get along > when I know we could strive to do better. > &gby Idolcrasher - General
Hmm... 1. Repair the STL in NetFabb Cloud (Assuming you did this already though) 2. Fine tune your Slic3r extrusion multiplier (https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/wiki/Calibration) 3. Post this as an issue on the Slic3r GitHub page-> Give lots of specifics! https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues?state=closed Read here how to write a good slic3r bug report-> https://github.com/alexrj/Slicby Idolcrasher - General
I look at 3D Printing like Thermo-Nuclear War. As soon as one Company "Drops the Bomb" everyone else will as well. I believe that if I can build a RepRap in my garage, that Apple, HP, General Electric, etc. can build a better one cheaper and mass produce it. I think that the internet, social media, and dropping tech prices are allowing hobbyists to tackle projects never before possible. New Hby Idolcrasher - General
@VDX I like it As complex as it sounds, it doesn't sound any cazier than the current RepRap fdm process VDX Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ... one of my ideas behind crosslinking LOM and > RepRap is the general ability of the reprap to > extrude sheets ... > > Imagine the reprap outputting a complete sheet > with a height of 0,5mm (for exaby Idolcrasher - Plastic Extruder Working Group
@polygonhell 3 Dimensional infill would be pretty awesome I imagine a Delta Bot would have an easier time doing this, as it can move in the Z-Axis very quickly. I don't even want to attempt to wrap my head around writing the slicing program that creates a 3D Slicing program that generates a 3d infill. Making sure the ext ruder does not collide with printed material while drawing 3D infill soby Idolcrasher - General
once you find a layer height and width that sticks to the plate, you can use a smaller layer height and width for a higher quality printby Idolcrasher - General
Slic3r Home Page A word of warning to all the Slic3r fans out in RepRap TV land: Slic3r 9.2 does not properly position the first layer Z height: IT WILL LEAVE IT AT ZERO -> If you are the kind of guy who "over squishes" their first layer, you will be in for a surprise as your nozzle drags through your print bed. ->If your printer survives the first layer, the print will be destroyedby Idolcrasher - General
Hi there, Slic3r 9.2 is broken - It does not lifte the nozzel to the appropriate height for the first layer. I recopmend you skip Slic3r 9.2 Starting on Slic3r 9, the layer widths and height can be controlled for seperate situations. By default, the first layer height will be larger than your default layer height (even if you put a 0 for your first layer height) Solution: To make Slic3r 9.by Idolcrasher - General
You must also consider other factors in play. Try using a wider width over thickness ratio for your first layer (slic3r has options for this).by Idolcrasher - General
Repetier V0.7 was just released! (2012/08/11) I'm a long time fan of this (IMHO) HIGHLY underrated/underused Host Program. Read About Repetier on the Wiki You should certainly give it a chance! Today, punch that other program you use right in its pronter face and try a program that displays your STLs and ToolPaths in 3D! Repetier GitHub Home P.S. Still love you Print Consoleby Idolcrasher - General
thejollygrimreaper Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > i just color co ordinate the color of the cable > tie with the color of the parts on the printer, > > i once spent 2 hours visiting $2 shops trying to > find the right kind of purpley pink that matched > the parts on my printer as close as possible..... > yes very sad Hahaha, I understand alby Idolcrasher - General
I ment cooling fans for the printed objectsby Idolcrasher - General
I should probably put my motor wires under my extremely under used spiral plastic wrap as wellby Idolcrasher - General
Very neat and clean, That is a pretty sexy build. I like the brackets for your power supply. No need for any cooling fans?by Idolcrasher - General
Wire managment on a homemade 3D printer can be a bear of a problem, especially if your projects don't regulary require in excess of 30 control wires Because I have many hobbies, and like to draw on alternate sources of inspiration, I took a look at how the arcade stick fanatics over at the Shoryuken Forums manage their wiring. Arcade Fight Stick Builders are infamous for their fetish with clby Idolcrasher - General