Hi folks I dunno I upload the firmware I can connect but somehow I'm missing something here seem like the pinout is totally wrong. maybe I need some kind of software from the sangiunololu in the support folder in order for the pins to be assigned correctly but as of right now I can't get anything done I need a step by step instruction guide can someone help out terramirby terramir - Firmware - mainstream and related support
scuba I got a 1.31 board and I really need decent instructions as of right now I cannot find any tried sprinter and I can't get anythiung to move even though 1.31 is supposed to be supported I dunno why, so I really need some help terramirby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
so I can upload this bootloader on my 1284p @ 20 mhz and then use the aruino --23 package to complileht e firmware right? now if I can get someone to help me see through all the things I need to figure out I'll be running marlin in no time terramirby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
can someone help me here with marlin cause I got no clue how to configure it got a regular 1.31 board and well a 664p or a 1284p @ 20 mhz traumflug has updated the bootloaders and such to work with the 1.x arduino software but I dunno if you can compile marlin on this but I have the old standard 664@20mhz bootloader on my chip I dunno if I need to change the bootloader or not . I can give all myby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Me me me wanna betatest wanted to actually ask you how it's going right about now since I fried 4 of 7 (total ten I have but untill yesterday the8th was not soldered) pololus I h8 those things so I wanted to know the progress of this because I would like a board like this myself . Ya know it's cheaper to replace these well and I found out that you can get these on eBay from china for like 3.30by terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
got some more in 10 for 20 11 for 22 12 for 24 including us shipping , also selling them on eBay under user name terramir but bin prince is 19 plus 3 bucks shipping so you save a little money here terramirby terramir - Vitamin Kit for Sale
actually went to a hacker space and machined some brass screws but now I have to hand drill the last bit with a #80 lol. trust me it's a pain in the butt but it is doable I just finished the first of 5. different lengths so I can run tests also have 2 brass rounds I will make heater blocks from when all is said and done I hope to have at least one working hotend. will post in a few dys when I havby terramir - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Wildseyed, question more than everything else is you said your using brass screws now two questions #1 how did you make the path through the screw and such my biggest problem with your design is that I cannot get the darn ptfe drilled straight and I don't have access to a lathe btw that heater block was so puny 1/4 inch aluminum metal it worked till I clogged up the tip itself, because I couldnby terramir - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I'm having severe problems with jamming at the moment tried another design with stainless steel and having jamming problems with that too, I think that I need to A shorten the melting chamber and there are some other things I'm gonna have to work on. As of right now I just need to get one working extruder done of any kind, but I will be picking this back up as soon as I have something workable. Iby terramir - Plastic Extruder Working Group
okies can get hotend to 250/260 C then it actually extrudes without a problem but the temp jumps up and down the bed well more problems says it only heats to 60 think my thermistor table is off (honeywell thermistor) table generated with the prusa calculator and all values multiplied by 4 which seems sensible since that's what's in the original file. the temp jumps up and dows erratically (well Iby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I'll check later the machine is offline till I fix my clogged extruder, the temperature was sinking too much found the problem the 12V line had like 10V added dummy load it seems to fix the psu problem my design uses a 4.7ohm resistor and well 10V 2.1 amp is not enough with the heatsinked design it cooled down too much. the temps rise much quicker during my test however I need to clean out my tipby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Okies as long as I don't manually use the extruder it dun matter in testing I can move x, y, z without incident, however if I run the extruder just once afterwards no matter what move I make with the x, y axis (haven't tried z yet) the extruder will move as well. I tried setting the e-stop reverse thing to 0 thinking that might be it but no dice. need some help, looked at the traces dun see anymoby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
btw just an update if you buy your drill rods from home depot and they are the crown kind if you bring your caliper you will find drill rods that say 5/16 but there really 8mm. Just to let you know terramirby terramir - General Mendel Topics
yeah but have you tried exporting to image so you can etch it there are certain things you just cannot do, unless I'm mistaken because I just can't see how too. like in the sanguinololu certain ground planes I can't seem to etch whatsoever so kinda confuded. well I mean I can't get an image that is just the copper on one side or the other terramirby terramir - Sanguino(lolu)
I have this and I tried this but it does not show the copper properly basically the free version can't do squat. Because this program is designed to make you dependent on pcb manufacturers. you cannot print out both sides of the pcb in a way so you could etch it. terramirby terramir - Sanguino(lolu)
Hi if you look below you can see that this is incomplete, i.e I cannot etch this this way, does anyone know of a way to convert the .brd files to something PCB inside the gEDA suite of pcb utilities can open? because as of right now I cannot etch this. I would edit it a bit anyway to ensure that I can actually etch it i.e. make some of the traces a bit bigger where possible . But I can only do tby terramir - Sanguino(lolu)
I got mine to work there was actually a short (solder bridge) between motor enable and R10 you might want to check your board because I can move my motors now. terramirby terramir - Controllers
Okies I would like to build one of these controllers I would like to use the honeywell thermistor instead of a thermo coupler because of costs., Have three questions: How do I modify the code on this page (Reprap.org wiki page) to use a honeywell thermistor. here's the link to the thermistor table. Also How would I use a sanguino to do this? i.e. which wires would I need to connect to which pinsby terramir - Controllers
The sanguinololu board is posted in eagle files. I dunno how to get in touch with the maker Joem, anyway to post these boards in .pcb i.e. with the open source software? eagle files are a bit** to print to scale for home made etching . I would like to make one myself to play around with the design. Anyways if someone can post a link to the same files in .pcb would be great Also if possible I'mby terramir - Sanguino(lolu)
After some input and careful consideration I decided to change alot of elements of my original design. Therefore I decided it warranted another post to check out the original design look here. Tools needed for this design: A drill ( a press would be better and maybe also an old chuck to mount on the drill press work plate (poor man's lathe). Also needed the following a 6mm tap and die, a 7mmby terramir - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I revised the design since I started it I'm now using a threading on the outside of the copper nozzle, 7mm and I'm making a new heater block that will screw right on and not contact Oh yes another revision from brass to steel for the air hose coupling. otherwise the heatsink and the peek bushings will stay the same will update the pic up there as soon as possible. terramirby terramir - Plastic Extruder Working Group
figured it out it was a solder bridge from R10 to pololu enable that was causing most of the problems go figureby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
If you stick a wire through the via and use two types of solder (one higher temp and solder that one first it's easier just an FYI. although I like the idea of conductive inks, albeit I would like to go a mixture route either copper based or carbon based this way we can print the resistors right on the board. But I would like it to be something that we could make ourselves. But as of right now nby terramir - Paste Extrusion Working Group
David I think we are aving the same issue here because you could upload the firmware and now your stuck can you verify that you can actually connect to the host program your using because I cannot at this time terramirby terramir - Controllers
I figure I go here step by step and say exactly what I did so far. first bit bang with parallel port avrdude -p atmega644P -C C:\arduino-0023\hardware\tools\avr\etc\avrdude.conf -c dapa -P lpt1 -U lfuse:w:0xF7:m -U hfuse:w:0xDC:m -U efuse:w:0xFC:m avrdude -p m644P -C C:\arduino-0023\hardware\tools\avr\etc\avrdude.conf -c dapa -P lpt1 -U flash:w:bootloader644p20MHz.hex that succeeds I upload thby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I seem to have the same problems here I can connect in the arduino software to upload the firmware but I'm not having anyluck getting pronterface or matter of fact any of the softwares to connect at all. both on mac and windows this issue is persistant tried everyspeed I could think of but no luck getting it to connect, now I'm just thinking it was not my compiled firmware, because I tried severaby terramir - Controllers
well figured it out problem was I didn't have the 4 pin power connector connected. lolby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
is this the kind of lcd that works with the sparkfun electronics? just would like to know ebay terramirby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
hmm looked at his (alfons) board and saw something he neglected to use the pin on top which is an a/d pin that I did breakout I just figured out how to fix mine though I could breakout the 3.3V by soldering it with a wire directly from the 3.3v and use the second ground from the serial header this should fix my 3.3V power problems however then I still need 5v and 12v power in case I need that forby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
the atmega 328pu is about $ 2.82 at mouser the 8 is like 20 cents cheaper might wanna go with the 328pu unless your really seeing it for half off somewhere I'm not seeing Anyways so would have to rewrite the firmware right? And then it would use 2 pins? Better than the sd cards four pins. Just wondering because hey two pins are better than four. or 6. I wonder if there is a keyboard library thby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group