I too bought a longboat kit. My bolt looks like yours. Assuming you've tried different tensions to rule out insufficient or too much tension on the extruder idler springs, I would guess that your hobbed bolt is not the cause of the problem. If there is something causing a block in your hot end insulator then this will cause the hobbed bolt to chew up the filament when it gets stuck. This happeneby another_reprapper - General
Hmm I ran it through netfabb basic and now it is fine. I feel silly, sorry!by another_reprapper - Slic3r
I checked it with netfabb basic before slicing. Will check again and confirm...by another_reprapper - Slic3r
Hi See attached screenshot from repetier. Not sure if this is a bug? Can anyone confirm?by another_reprapper - Slic3r
None of your paths are set correctly as they all say "C:\Program Files\Slic3r". You need to change those to reflect the complete location of slic3r and the complete location of the config file for the 2nd path. If your paths have spaces in them then you need to use double quotes around the path name.by another_reprapper - Slic3r
Mark You can adjust the current to the driver by turning the scew on the stepper driver board. You can measure the voltage (which more easily measured than current) by measuring between ground and the small hole just next to the driver chip on the driver board. My longboat prusa setup works fine when measuring 0.47 volts at this point which I understand means the current is at the top end for theby another_reprapper - General
another_reprapper Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Regarding heat - your thermistor should be > regulating heat. In the end I abandoned my > thermistor table and used the default #1 > thermistor in Sprinter instead. Using this, the > best temperature so far for me is 220 degrees C. > While my thermistor is the one from RS, all 100k >by another_reprapper - General
jimcking Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Guess I will just switch to Slic3r. Anyone know > if it can be directly interfaced to Pronterface > like Sfact it? Yes, see the bottom of the readme hereby another_reprapper - Reprappers
Dan Re skipping extruder. I fixed mine by putting the current on the extruder stepper up on the pot so that it measures 0.47 volts at the test point on the stepper driver board. I believe this sets the current to the maximum for the supplied motor. Heat sinks and fans are going in too.by another_reprapper - Reprappers
Dan I have similar symptoms to you, a skipping extruder motor, I am trying to track down the cause. I intend to put heat sinks and fans on the stepper driver chip to see if that helps. Use thermistor table #1 in Sprinter with a 100k thermistor (check the resistance at room temperature to see if it is near 100k ohms). I am currently extruding at 220 oC but will be trying other temperatures as pby another_reprapper - Reprappers
George I think it is highly unlikely that there is a thermal transfer issue between your heater resistor and your hot end in the thread. The screw & thread design facilitates heat conduction and doesn't need any paste. It does sound like a temperature problem but I think you need to increase your temperature to be near to 210-220 degrees C if you are using the supplied faberdashery PLA. Doby another_reprapper - General
@Pierre If it helps I have on several occasions in the past short circuited something connected to USB on my macbook pro and there was an in-built cut-out in the OS which popped up a warning message and disabled the USB port until my next reboot. Can't comment on your diagram but I'm sure someone else will. Maybe check the Longboat wiki page? @George If your Kapton tape is ripping then eitheby another_reprapper - General
George Yes you do have to re-install a version of the Sprinter firmware - there is no (easy) way to edit the firmware that was pre-installed. You need to learn how to compile and upload your own firmware as some critical configuration of the reprap printer is done in the firmware, e.g extruder steps per mm. But this process is easy, I will explain... In the Arduino software, after you open theby another_reprapper - General
George You need the Sanguino add-ons for Arduino to compile Sprinter for the board. See the info here: You can download Sprinter in a zip file from here: Btw you can't access the pre-installed firmware but fear not, it is not that difficult to learn how to compile your own firmware to replace it. You only need to edit Configuration.h and thermistortables.h in Arduino. The first goal shouldby another_reprapper - General
George - having just swapped out my thermistors and replaced my melted hot end (after over-enthusiastically using the 2k thermistor), I feel your pain! To answer your question, there seems to be a consensus emerging that Sprinter (firmware), pronterface (printer control) and slic3r (GCODE generation) are the easiest software packages to use for getting started. Other packages seem to be eitherby another_reprapper - General
Yes that sounds like a 2k thermistor. You could use a 2k for the bed but it might be better to use 100k so you can be sure of the spec and the thermistor table. James from the rep rap kit store said he was sending out 100k thermistors but no one has reported receiving one yet.by another_reprapper - Reprappers
I am no expert with skeinforge but those errors do look path related. Maybe due to the spaces in your filenames and directories as the error suggests to me that your path is being tokenized incorrectly. Have you tried using filenames and directories in their 8.3 formats rather than the filenames and directors with spaces? You can find those out in dos by using dir /x Or maybe just rename yourby another_reprapper - Reprappers
Mark I too have similar issues with some STL files in slic3r and also skeinforge settings. Slic3r seems to be under active development though. Can you share you settings for pronterface, esp nozzle size, layer height, etc.? TIAby another_reprapper - Reprappers
Well done Nigel I'd be interested in knowing your skeinforge or slic3r settings for nozzle size, layer height, etc. TIAby another_reprapper - Reprappers
I have today confirmed the supplied thermistors with Longboat Prusas are 2.2k or 2.5k thermistors and therefore unsuitable for measuring temperatures in the hot end. These thermistors simply don't have enough change in resistance at high temperatures and it is very difficult to get any kind of temperature control to facilitate a stable PLA melting temperature.by another_reprapper - United Kingdom RepRap User Group
I totally agree with NigeO. The kit seems fine so far but we are stuck unless someone can confirm the spec of the supplied thermistor.by another_reprapper - United Kingdom RepRap User Group