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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Questions about calibration - 12 years ago
I've limited my Y axis to 195 because thats all I can get with my opto end-stops mounted the way they are. I am not sure how to select scaling or anything like that. But I'm not too fussed about bed leveling as I check this pretty accurately. .85 extrusion multiplier left gaps in layers. .88 was the sweet spot. I just printed a .5mm thin wall with .1mm layers and it's awsome. The tape iby Gibbedy - General
Questions about calibration - 12 years ago
Hello I'm working through the calibration wiki. I'm getting reasonable prints but am having trouble with bridging and am wondering if I have'nt done some of the previous steps right. I'm using slic3r 0.7.1 and pronterface. Printing with 3mm Yellow PLA through a .5mm JHead IV I think. I have a 120mm Fan blowing lightly after first layer which improved .5mm thin wall dramatically. First I don'tby Gibbedy - General
Re: Where do I hook up a cooling fan - 12 years ago
Thanks for that. Running now. After setting up hot end temp as low as possible I still wasn't getting a good .5mm thin wall. Then I blew a bit of air over it and and it was a huge difference. Thanks again.by Gibbedy - General
Where do I hook up a cooling fan - 12 years ago
Hello, I keep reading referneces to D9. Where on my Ramps 1.4 board do I hook up a fan. Thanks.by Gibbedy - General
Re: PCB Heatbed not getting hot enough - 12 years ago
Turns out loading up 5v did improve regulation. Instead of dropping to 11.3V My crappy supply held at 11.7V. I got similar results on an antec earthwatts 500W. Which makes me wonder what you have to spend to get a supply with independant regulation.by Gibbedy - General
Re: PCB Heatbed not getting hot enough - 12 years ago
I have found they need a load on the 5v supply to stay on. I can't see why voltage regulation on the 12V supply would have anything todo with the load on the 5V supply. I would like to see a link to any atx design that does this if someone has come across this. I'm too lazy to look into it and dismiss it as rubbish. In my opinion the best option would be miro87043's and just increase the voltby Gibbedy - General
Re: Calibration Woe's. What is going on with my print here - 12 years ago
Feed rate was good. I disabled retract which fixed the late start issue. I enabled retract again and watched extruder carefully. What I saw was 2/3 of the time it would retract and not start again at original point (causing late start) and 1/3 of the time it would not retract at all (causing a reasonable start ). This resulted in a triangle print with one slotted side. I changed the default slicby Gibbedy - General
Re: HELP ME wire a heater and controller! - 12 years ago
1 controller per thing your trying to heat. If it's a PID controller have a read of the documentation and let it do an auto-tune. Google PID heat control if your interested in why your seeing the temp overshoot. I'm sure you can get multi-zone controller but I'm not sure it would be cheaper than a couple of cheap controllers. Edit: I'm not sure about multizone. I'm just guessing you can buy soby Gibbedy - General
Re: HELP ME wire a heater and controller! - 12 years ago
I gathered you are driving a solid state relay from a temp controller to switch your heater. You can safely swap the solid state relay for an electro-mechanical one if you have one handy to test. If you have another ssr that's even better. 12 volts direct current relay.by Gibbedy - General
Re: Calibration Woe's. What is going on with my print here - 12 years ago
The stepper isn't skipping. The filament doesn't look or feel to be slipping. It prints 3/4 of the cube fine. It appears to me after every retract it takes a while for plastic to come out. I have set first layer to .1 speed and it is still consistent with what it doesn't print on the first and subsequent layers. If I set multiple skirts all but the start of the first one print fine. I will cby Gibbedy - General
Re: PCB Heatbed not getting hot enough - 12 years ago
jakub.sturc Wrote: > What's the most probable source of this problem? > • We have only 350W ATX power source with 14A > cord. Is it too weak? > • Poor (air and cork) from underlying aluminium > plate? > • Low ambient temperature 18°C > • Something else? Probably a few things. Check your power supply with a meter and ignore the ratings. I have a 350W ATX supply rated atby Gibbedy - General
Re: HELP ME wire a heater and controller! - 12 years ago
What your describing sounds like your SSR has failed (shorted). I have no experience with them but i'd start with that. Change it for a 12VDC relay and see if it works.by Gibbedy - General
Calibration Woe's. What is going on with my print here - 12 years ago
Hello. I've just built my prusa mendel. I've crunched the numbers and configered all my speeds. I've leveled the print bed. Now I have been trying to print the 5mm-thin-wall.stl and it looks to me like the extruder starts too late. I have tried changing layer height/speed and extruder retraction settings but it always turns out like this,or this. What can I try?by Gibbedy - General
Re: Time to test. - 12 years ago
Thermistors tested ok. I surched around and found the solution to getting UltiMachineRAMPS1-4Sprinter firmware working. I had to change 4 source files and it compiled and works. I'm sure I'll have more questions soon.by Gibbedy - General
Time to test. - 12 years ago
Hello all. I have just finished building my prusa mendel and am ready to start testing. I'm using ramps 1.4 Atmega 1280. My problem is after loading the firmware (ErikZalm-Marlin-v1.0.0.RC2-0-g27f595a) my X axis opto endstop will not pull the input high. The endstop works if swapped to another input. When I connect with pronterface I get: Connecting... start Printer is now online. echo:Marliby Gibbedy - General
Re: [Solved] Trouble with RAMPS 1.4 and sprinter, no negative movement - 12 years ago
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sounds like Marlin configures the endstop to be an > output or enables the pullup-resistors or > something like that. The difference between the X > and Y endstop is the ATmega pin, one of which can > be misconfigured. I'm hoping its not a hardware fault with the i/o. I'm having trouble getting sprinter orby Gibbedy - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Trouble with RAMPS 1.4 and sprinter, no negative movement - 12 years ago
danieljabailey Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have just tried marlin again. I have it moving > on all 3 axes, however, the y axis endstop is > showing as high all the time, the LED seems to > indicate the status properly even though it is > still on when the endstop isn't hit. (the Y > endstop LED is very dim when the endstop isn't hit > anby Gibbedy - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Heat plate kills ATX Power Supply - 12 years ago
I think a resistor would be better advice. I am curious what happens with this setup. Does the 5v line just sit on current limit the whole time your power supply is on?by Gibbedy - Reprappers
Re: Heat plate kills ATX Power Supply - 12 years ago
My issue turned out to be a wiring fault. Off by 1 terminal. And was pulling 12v to 3v supply.by Gibbedy - Reprappers
Re: Heat plate kills ATX Power Supply - 12 years ago
Just tested my heatbed and have the same result. Antec supply says it's good for 15A & 17A on 12v1 & 12v2 but put a 1.2ohm load on it and it dies in the arse. Might try another one.by Gibbedy - Reprappers
Re: Is print bed wieght an issue? - 12 years ago
Down to 530g minus glass. top plate How exactly do the springs help. I assume you have a mechanical stop for the z axis and set it up so springs don't bottom out before this? What breaks if there are no springs?by Gibbedy - Reprappers
Re: Is print bed wieght an issue? - 12 years ago
Ok. Will ditch the 6mm. I like the sound of a printed y carriage but will save that for the next one. I have a 3mm Aluminium at work so I think I'll use that and make it like swiss cheese. No springs. I assume I level it with washers under top plate. Will stick with 6mm MDF as it's pretty light. Will look into di-bond if I get through this one ok. Thanks.by Gibbedy - Reprappers
Is print bed wieght an issue? - 12 years ago
Hello all. I'm slowly working my way through building a prusa. I made a decision to use 6mm alluminium for the bottom plate and 6mm MDF for the top. I'm planning to put a square of gasket material, then MK1 heatbed, then a sheet of 3mm glass. I have not purchased the glass yet and am at 943g so far. Are there any motor torqe/speed issues with regards to print bed weight?by Gibbedy - Reprappers
Re: Prusa Mendel printed parts - 13 years ago
Hello. I'm after a set of plastic parts for my first standard Prusa Mendel build.by Gibbedy - Australia, Melbourne RUG