Looks like a false trigger of the probe to me, you can see that it gets higher after a skipped probe. Check your switch wiring, if you have an LCD that gives live readout of Z probe state then try wiggling wires while nothing else is happening to see if Z probe changes its state. Also maybe your return spring is a bit light (or there's too much friction in the bit of plastic the allen key shoulby Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Generally if something is going to break down then you will have a temperature at which significant breakdown occurs due to thermal energy exceeding some critical bond strength in the molecules. Below that temperature you will have a very rapidly decreasing amount of breakdown that will probably never actually hit zero but will be many many times lower. As Bricomp says, even the intermittent maby Zedsquared - General
Elmo, PTFE is the plastic you are thinking of that decomposes if the hotend goes over 350C and that does indeed cause pretty nasty fumes. I've no idea for the adhesives however. I'd imagine that any significant decomposition would be noticed immediately as a bubbling or blistering of the print surface as there's nowhere for any evolved gasses to go. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
You can also get brass wool that's used for soldering iron bit wiping:by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Why not use this as an opportunity to switch to 24V? I made the change and all I had to replace was my hotend heater cartridge and heatsink fan. As a result I have happier steppers and a hotbed that gets to temperature quickly. YMMV of course, depending on how much 12V specific stuff you have on your printer, but it's worth a thought! Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - Reprappers
Thanks for the info! Have you tried tinsnips or aviation shears? FYI: My bed is a spring-form baking tin base ( borosilcate ) and comes in at 230mm dia, The standard for Kossel Mini seems to be 170mm to 180mm. The actual printable dia of my bed is around 180mm. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
How difficult would you say it was to trim printbite to a circular bed? Are hefty scissors (like this sort of thing: ) any good or will it have to be scored and snapped multiple times to get suitable polygon? Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
Maybe the guys from can help you... they do a "Kossel XL" kit that might meet your requirements and they're in Europe, drop them a line. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
I have a Kossel mini that I'm thinking of adding flex3drive to, it has the standard 5:1 geared down extruder motor on it at the moment, would that need to be replaced? If so, with what sort of motor? I'm running everything from a smoothieboard, in case that makes any difference. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
It's quite possible to run a smoothieboard without an LCD, or having the computer there all the time: Just copy the Gcode file onto the SD card, then using a terminal program (I'd use putty on a pc, don't know about macs) get talking to the smoothieboard and issue the play command. This will make the smoothieboard print from your file, straight off the sd card and you can disconnect the computeby Zedsquared - General
Well this place seems to ship worldwide: Anyway, on to my actual question: Does anyone know offhand what needs tweaking on the E3D V6 fan shroud above to make it fit an E3D V5? I dropped an email to E3D a few weeks back asking the same but have had no reply beyond the standard "we've opened a ticket for you, BRB" so I thought I'd try the hive mind here Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Retraction lift is not the same thing, that parameter only makes the head lift during non printing moves, You need the "Z offset" at the top of that page of slic3r settings in the "size and co-ordinates" box. If it is set to a negative value now then that is the cause of your problem, if it is already at zero then setting it to 0.1 or so will solve the symptoms but not the actual cause of yourby Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Do you have a Z offset setting anywhere in your slicer? I know Slic3r and Kisslicer do, this could cause everything to print too low if set.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
maybe try a G28 as the first command to home the printer?by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
3M 200MP sounds familiar, I remember trying to find it in tape form in the UK and failing, didn't think about sheets of it! Thanks for the link Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
Hi Folks, does anyone have any success story regarding a decent adhesive to re attach bed heat pads to borosilicate glass? I have had one bad experience with a kapton flex PCB style heater, the double sided tape I used just wouldn't take for long and it would curl off after a few days. This is despite a good cleaning with acetone of both surfaces before application and avoiding contaminatby Zedsquared - General
Nice and swift Is the black paint under your glass necessary for the IR (to catch only the top surface reflection perhaps)?by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Be aware that possibly some SSRs that work for AC will not work for DC: they will switch on but not off (they latch on and only go off once the control voltage is removed and voltage across the switching element drops to a certain level, AC is fine because it's always passing through zero many times a second. ) So make sure they will work for your bed supply before purchase. Cheers, Robiby Zedsquared - General
it's probably the arduino pin that's fried, you can reassign another unused pin to Z Min by editing your firmware, if it was Marlin it would be pins.h that you would need to look at. Also FYI: Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
There's always this thing (I've not tried it myself yet) or this:by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Nope, delaying five seconds before the init made no difference. Hitting reset on the smoothieboard doesn't sort things out either.by Zedsquared - Controllers
Well my 5V is coming from the same regulator in both cases, working with old 140W 12V PSU and not working with new 1100W(!) 24V PSU (it was a surplus bargain on ebay). The regulator is a switcher rated at 1.5A and up to 30V Vin, so there shouldn't be a problem there really which was why I suspect timing. 'spose I should put my money where my mouth is and have a go at inserting a delay like youby Zedsquared - Controllers
Hi Folks, I have a smoothieboard and RRD GLCD which were getting along fine until I switched to my new bigger PSU ( that can cope with my new 200W hotbed). Now the LCD doesn't seem to be initialised properly, I get a couple of lines of random dots instead of text. Every now and then if I power up then off then on again I get a proper display. Switching back to my old PSU makes everythiby Zedsquared - Controllers
I solved the issue about the probe not reaching the belt for deployment by extending the short arm of the probe with a little sleeving made of wire insulation pushed over the arm, it was stiff enough to allow the probe to be tweaked into deployed mode. I believe others have used heatshrink tubing in a similar manner. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
Probing in mid air is usually a symptom of the Z probe being triggered when not touching the bed, which is usually becuase its signal is inverted in some way. Issue an M119 command and check that it shows Z probe untriggered, then manually trigger the probe, issue M119 again and see what it says. If it shows the wrong way round then set inverting true for your Z min endstop and try again. Otherwiby Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Anther smoothieboard user here, I'm running a 5Xc on a Kossel mini. I've been using the current smoorthie edge build and also having a go with 626Pilot's smoothieware fork that uses simulated annealing for calibration, see this thread: ... it's still experimental but has some handy features for Zprobe repeatability testing and definately improved my rig while I was testing it. I'm going to try iby Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Also neodymium magnets loose their magnetisation at quite low temperatures, as low as 100C for some grades. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - Developers
Traumflug was talking about electrical signals which are used to interface with stepper motor drivers, the "dir" signal controls the direction of movement and the "step " signal is pulsed once to make the motor move a step in that direction. They are *not* commands that are typed in. A pololu is one type of stepper motor driver board that would accept these signals. Old plotters used to take coby Zedsquared - General
Another common mistake is to accidentally miswire the homing switches so that you end up connecting 0v and 5v together when the switches activate. This can make the electronics crash when homing. So check the wiring to your end stops is correct.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
From watching the video it seems perhaps your Z probe isn't very repeatable, you can tell because it probes for a different number of times on each spot. I believe that, for some versions of marlin, the routine will probe at one spot until it gets two consecutive readings that are the same, if the Z reading is varying each time then you will see this repeated probing, the levelling will take a loby Zedsquared - Delta Machines