I think you may have partially answered the question yourself when you mentioned the patents granted ... it's a small market so maybe only the patent holders are likely to find it commercially viable to make one.by Zedsquared - General
On a more fundamental level, check the "motherboard" setting in marlin, it controls a whole slew of IO pin definitions and will need to be set correctly for your electronics. There is one more possibility, you might have a blown IO pin on your electronics. if you know your way around them then you might be able to reassign an unused pin to the Z max endstop (X min or Y min, if present, for instanby Zedsquared - General
Quote Put between +and- coming out of the power supply. Make sure that you get it the right way round if you do that, a capacitor of that size is almost certainly polarised and will have + or - marked on one of the leads. make sure this lead goes to the supply rail it is marked for, usually there's a - marked so that would go to the - line. Get it wrong and they tend to blow up! Best thing is tby Zedsquared - General
The smoke probably came from the switch if you had it shorting the power rails due to miswiring. You may find that the switch is now welded closed or generally unreliable. If the smoke came from the electronics then you may have bigger problems! The M119 command is your friend, it will report back the state of the end stops. Make sure that the readings are true so that the correct end stop showsby Zedsquared - General
Hercek nailed it in his first reply all the way up there and I was totally overthinking it I'm ashamed to say that I somehow overlooked that I had both segments_per_second and mm_per_line_segment (last one is smoothieware specific I think) commented out. So basically only the end points of the lines were in the right place and the long straight lines on the fill that were dipping down in an arcby Zedsquared - Delta Machines
You might also want to check out this thread where there is some good discussion of this sort of thing going on:by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Just to throw in a data point here... I've built a mini kossel, my first delta. I started out driving it with a printrboard I had left over from another printer with marlin and Johan's grid bed probing. I could get decent prints almost immdiately (once some minor stickiness on the probe was sorted out). Since then I have graduated to a smoothieboard and have been trying manual calibration and alsby Zedsquared - Delta Machines
This thread might be of interest to you, a remote drive for extruders: Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Looks cool, requires an amplifier to feed into a spare a/d on the electronics perhaps (it has a voltage output rather than variable resistance of an FSR) much like thermocouple vs thermistor for heat sensing. Or if just used for an on/off sense then a mod of the light sensor board might work but it's unlikely to just bolt onto the cheap board mentioned above. Looks expensive too Cheers,by Zedsquared - General
Given the construction of FSRs you might get away with simply punching a hole in the middle, it's not going to break the circuit of the remaining interleaved conductive fingers on the top layer, it might interfere with the way the top layer is held away from the conductive base however. I suppose filament might also drag on the hole edges and have the same effect as pressure on the FSR. Also watcby Zedsquared - General
Sorry, didn't meant to come across as too snarky but the discussion *is* going over old ground. Here's a setup for hot end mounted FSR's for instance: The proposed circuit is nice and cheap but may have problems that the more FSR oriented "custom" boards don't ... for instance there's apparantly no auto tuning of the threshold, like the code in the trinkets has, so if set too finely you mayby Zedsquared - General
Hate to burst your bubble guys but this has all been done! Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
However reflashing experience may vary depending on your electronics and how they are mounted: When I had a printrboard Mk1 (which needs a jumper moving to reflash then back again afterwards) mounted in the base of my delta I found reflashing a right pain compared with changing EEPROM values Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
Plus even the FAQ contradicts some of the things shown in the video such as taking parts straight off the printer and giving them to a child without any post processing.by Zedsquared - General
There's an LCD under the glass dish that has a grid of pixels to do the X and Y. This makes slicing easier too as there aren't any tool paths to calculate, just a bunch of silhouette images to expose each layer.by Zedsquared - General
How about this for a very simple explanation: 1. Arduino program (firmware) is generalised and when building a printer the builder will define in the code which pins control which stepper motor controller (according to the specific type of electronics board they are using) and store these values on the arduino when they compile the firmware from source code. 2. When receiving G code, firmware dby Zedsquared - General
Also there are so many variations in how an object is printed ( amount of infil, infill pattern, material used, layer thickness, bead diameter, printing temperature, printing speed to name a few) that you'll not find any answer that will necessarily be reproducible when you make the product. You may possibly find that one of the larger commercial printer makers like stratasys might have done someby Zedsquared - General
Also make sure any probe offset constants are set to zero as your head is your probe.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Does the head tap ok in the centre at first but then move off the plate? You may need to look at reducing bed diameter on line 107 of your config and possibly making sure that the starting values for rod length are closer to actual values. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
The vfat stuff to acquire the filename off the SD filesystem must be ok because the file name displayed has more than 8 characters and includes spaces, so it's likely just an issue with fitting it on the display. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - Developers
The syringe plunger tracking methods woudn't account for any large air bubbles in the barrel though as then the plunger would move but nothing would be extruded. If you're extruding wet paste onto a conductive surface (or the previous layers aren't too dry) then some sort of capacitive sensing might work. Basically use a touch switch circuit but the "finger" is your (presumably quite thick) layeby Zedsquared - General
Very curious! Here's a test suggestion: after making a print which goes slanted, but before homing the heads (remove any final G28 from the gcode and replace with a move out of the way of the print) if you try a move to the centre of the bed (G0X0Y0Z1) does the head go to the centre or is it offset like the print? Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
I'd avoid heating the magnets to release them as NIB has a pretty low demagnetising temperature. I found this out when trying to release the first magnet I scrounged from a hard drive head actuator. The glue melted fine, I was left with a useless bit of shiny metal Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
There's this sort of thing around already and they are handy for mass production soldering: Any attempt to melt the solder elswhere than at the actual joint being made (i.e. some sort of melt chamber in the iron) would ruin the effect of the flux, the flux resins only act right at the point of melting and quickly boil off. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
I've seen that too, both with my Kossel and my first cartesian (Makibox) So that's two differnt firmwares and styles ofprinter doing the same thing... I thought it might be something to do with the slicer crossing some sort of threshold (overhang angle?) and switching to bridge mode. I've never actually got round to investigating properly though.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Don't forget you now have the potential to collide the head with previously printed material ... hasn't the definition of "printable" just got a lot more complicated? Good stuff though! Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - Developers
Hi Folks, I'm in north Bristol and have a Kossel Mini that is still in the teething stages right now but might be worth showing off by August... and, errr, Hi! Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - West of England RUG
yes, because if you were to try and do it in two stages the printhead would be colliding with what you printed on the first pass.by Zedsquared - General