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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: ramps 1.4 not using uploaded settings - 10 years ago
Yes, i am changing the steps specified after the /1.25,---- . Ive changed XYZ steps many times before and other things but it seems like i always have issues with getting the extruder changes to take effect. I guess i can just modify the extruder multiplier in the sliceing software but id like to have it close to right in the firmware to start with.by GITRDUN - General
ramps 1.4 not using uploaded settings - 10 years ago
I am changing my extruder and i can not get my ramps board to accept the new extruder settings. It extrudes the same amount of filament no matter what i set the sprinter steps to for extruder. Am i missing something? Ive heard of needing to reset the ramps to take new settings but what does that mean, just push the reset button? Feeling pretty stupid right now.by GITRDUN - General
Re: Not sticking to bed on 1st layer? - 10 years ago
The thing that makes the biggest difference for me is to run the first layer at 15mm/sec as stated above but also force the first layer wisth to be printed at around 150% to 200% of nozzle diameter. That sticks it down like glue. Go to the advanced section in Slic3r and set the first layer width manualy. I print PLA on blue painters tape on one machine with a glass bed and the other with a woodenby GITRDUN - General
Re: Least buggy version - 10 years ago
I had issues with bridging using 9.9. It was making rails and then bridging the gap between the two rails rather than spanning the length of the gap to make the bridge. Had the same bug in a couple of earlier versions about a year ago. It was always fixed with the next release.by GITRDUN - Slic3r
Re: Least buggy version - 10 years ago
I also like the Kisslicer because it just works right out of the box and the toolpath seems more smooth. But the free version lacks the options of slic3r. I would gladly pay a little for a glitch free version of Slic3r. I think they have a great tool but id bet they are driving people to the other software slicers because of all the bugs.by GITRDUN - Slic3r
Re: Least buggy version - 10 years ago
My $.02 . Stop making new features and new releases once in a while to focus on fixing bugs. Then once you have a solid bug free release that everyone can revert back to, go back to more experimenting and making more latest releases. Im not on here trying to start a fire i totally apreciate the open source software and i have a good idea of the amount of time and hard work it takes to write softwby GITRDUN - Slic3r
Least buggy version - 10 years ago
So what is the least bug filled version of Slic3r? Ive spent the last 2 days fighting the printer again before deciding its once again another slic3r bug.by GITRDUN - Slic3r
Re: Extruders and HotEnds everywhere ! - 10 years ago
I started with a Makergear but started making my own J- heads. The j head seems much superior to me. Not a single non user caused jam in almost a year of printing on two machines with my own j heads.by GITRDUN - General
Re: Hole sizes not right - 10 years ago
Start off at 1 and then follow the instructions i posted. If the single wall width is thicker than its suposed to be you need to go down on the multiplier. Heres an example : width is suposed to be .35mm , it actualy measures .32mm . So .35 divided by .32 = 1.09. So you enter 1.09 as your multiplier in Slic3r. Just divide what its suposed to be by what it actualy is and thats your multiplier numbby GITRDUN - General
PLA bushings vs metal bushings - 10 years ago
I am building my 3rd printer and so far i have had better luck printing my own bearings / bushings vs buying bronze bushings. The problem seems to be partly that every shaft for the X Y axes isnt exactly what its suposed to be, maybe .0005" / .0010" difference and thats the difference between perfect sliding rails and sticking rails. Add into that the machined tolerence of the bushings and its veby GITRDUN - General
Re: Hole sizes not right - 10 years ago
If you calibrate correctly using slic3r you can get inner holes to be about as acurate as OD dimensions. Thats assuming they are not true arc holes but more square sided holes. set the slic3r settings to 1 perimeter , 0 infill and 0 solid infill and set the width settigns to automatic. Basicly you want to print a single wall shell. After slicing go find the g-code file and open it. In the headby GITRDUN - General
Re: Makerbot patenting network 3D printing - 10 years ago
maddox Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > GITRDUN Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Turned out the *sshole didnt even > > have a patent but it cost us $20k to defend > > ourselves in court and have it thrown out. He > was > > bluffing to the very end. > > > > You would be able toby GITRDUN - General
wiring kit - 10 years ago
Is there anywhere to buy a complete wiring kit for a reprap prusa? Or maybe even just wires with the connectors already on them. Im building another and i absolutely hate spending hours and hours making each connector and soldering wires and on and on. Id gladly pay a little extra to have the wiring mostly made up already.by GITRDUN - General
Re: Really weird problem - 10 years ago
I think you guys are right about the hot end just not heating the filament up fast enough. I checked G-code and it looked fine. I am running it at .6 layer height, man does it build a part up fast. Even running it at 30mm/sec it cut build time by about 40% but obviously at much lower resolution. I think the hang up is that even if i add another resistor or run the hot end alot hotter the plastby GITRDUN - General
Re: Makerbot patenting network 3D printing - 10 years ago
We fought off a company which claimed to have a patent on a product we produced for a customer. They sued our customer and us for patent infringement. Turned out the *sshole didnt even have a patent but it cost us $20k to defend ourselves in court and have it thrown out. He was bluffing to the very end. If someone else has been using networked printing on their models Makerbot can still legitiby GITRDUN - General
Really weird problem - 10 years ago
Just out of curiosity i drilled one of my J-head nozzles out to .8mm to see how it would print. Once i had the extruder tuned back in it prints great at 30mm/sec, but if i try printing above 30mm/sec on X and Y speed the printer cant keep up with itself. I can print easily at 100mm/sec with a .35 nozzle. When printing a corner it will take off aroud the corner about 1/4" before the actual corner.by GITRDUN - General
Re: 0.9.9 bridging not as good as 0.9.8 - 10 years ago
Using 9.8 i can adjust the parameter and get good results. I went down to .65 % to stop the sagging.by GITRDUN - Slic3r
Re: 0.9.9 bridging not as good as 0.9.8 - 10 years ago
Im also having bridge issues with 9.9 .by GITRDUN - Slic3r
Re: Drilling out JHead Mk V - 10 years ago
Go for it. I drilled out a few .35mm nozzles by hand using a lathe and holding the bit with a pair of pliers. With a bit that small the trick is just dont push it, let it SLOWLY work its way in so it doesnt bind up. If it already has a hole and you just want to drill it bigger it should be a piece of cake. You could probably do that by hand if you can find something to grip the drill bit with.by GITRDUN - General
Re: Eradicate backlash - 10 years ago
I made a new Y carriage much more rigid at the point where the belt ends connect. It helped quite a bit and stopped the Y carriage from torquing left and right when reversing. Still couldnt get it totally resolved so i shifted the motor and belt as close to one of the Y axis rails as possible and it helped more again. Still not below the .001" target but getting closer. One of my machines hasby GITRDUN - General
Re: Eradicate backlash - 10 years ago
I have a 4 bearing setup on both machines and they both have a little slop. One much worse than the other. Id like to know the bullet proof design to eliminate the slop as well. Im thinking mine is coming from the printed Y carriages. Im printing a new one now that will be much more rigid so i will know hopefully by the end of the day. Also i noticed my X carriages have only about .001" ~ .001by GITRDUN - General
Re: Eradicate backlash - 10 years ago
Dirty Steve Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @Traumflug > > Backlash Wiki > > backlash can be minimized, but not eliminated > mechanically. A zero-backlash mechanical system > would not be movable. Backlash is just a fact of life. But software can compensate effectively if used right. Its not as much of a problem when making rectilinear movby GITRDUN - General
Re: Eradicate backlash - 10 years ago
I think i have narrowed it down to the Y axis carriage. It is twisting side to side just a hair when reversing direction just enough to cause the backlash.by GITRDUN - General
Eradicate backlash - 10 years ago
I have two Prusa printers both are plagued by backlash. One has the machined timing gears and the other uses timing gears i printed myself. On Y axis i can not get below .008" (.2mm) backlash on the machine with machined timing gears. The belts are drum tight, its only 1 year old so i cant imagine the belts are worn out already. What is the best solution to eliminate backlash on these printersby GITRDUN - General
Re: Which is the better 3D printer for starter - 10 years ago
I started out with a MakerGear Prusa. I dont know if one mfg is better than another but id stick with a well known mfg for your first experience. The standard Prusa design would be my recomendation simply because is been around for awhile and there are so many out there, and when you need support the majority of people can help because most everyone has some experience on a Prusa. And trust me ifby GITRDUN - General
Re: PLA Bridges welling upwards? - 10 years ago
I had alot of problems bridging with slicer. The problem depends on which version you are running. One version works ok then the next has a bug, then they fix that on the next version and end up with another bug. It never ends and you can spend alot of time trying to determine if your problems are the printer or slicer software. My advice, use a different slicer.by GITRDUN - General
dual fans to much? - 10 years ago
I am trying to run dual fans for cooling the print while printing and now my hot end will run at exactly 3C lower temp than what it is set at. No matter what temp i set it to it will hold at 3C below the set temp. I am using Sprinter but im not sure what PID settings to adjust to get it to work right. Also i noticed my prints look like the extrusion width is to small now and the perimeters andby GITRDUN - General
Re: Crashing/Freezing mid print, no explanation - 10 years ago
I had the same issue and it was finally resolved by plugging my Prusa power supply into an extension cord which ran to an outlet on a different breaker. Its not so much which outlet you plug into but what other things are running off of the same electric circuit as your outlet. Some appliances and things cause alot of electric noise in their circuits.by GITRDUN - General
Re: Overhang solutions - 10 years ago
I have a bunch of ducted fans for RC jets laying around. Some of my 40mm spool up to 50K Rpm and an exhaust speed around 100mph+ , maybe that would do the trick. LOL.by GITRDUN - General
Overhang solutions - 10 years ago
Overhangs are driving me crazy. I have never been able to reliably print overhangs. I use a .35mm J-head nozzle printing PLA only. I have a 40mm fan that blows at the part and nozzle. If i use two fans my hot end cant stay hot enough to print reliably. Ive tried printing support with two different slicers and while it can be done it causes more problems than it solves. What is the real solutioby GITRDUN - General