Well after a couple days of using Kisslicer it is now my fav slicer. I printed a few prints that have always been difficult for me and it handles them much better than Slic3r. I dont understand why or how but it definately seems superior.by GITRDUN - General
I have only used Slic3r for the past year so i tried out the Kisslicer last night. The movements seem more smooth for some reason and the print quality was as good as ever but it didnt look any better than the slic3r quality to me. The things that have me puzzled - No matter what i changed i could not get it to print above maybe 15~20mm/sec. I had the speed settings at 80mm/sec for fast andby GITRDUN - General
The cost is almost all in the electronics and thats not going to matter much which printer you choose. As far as the printed parts, thats cheap or free if you have a buddy with a printer. The rods and all thread to build a prusa is maybe $40.by GITRDUN - General
Printed with the new printer and it runs as good as the typical Prusa. I ran it at 80mm/sec feed and 130mm rapids without any noticable wobble or vibrations. Its a definate step up in the looks department but the X axis needs to be widened out a few inches to be able to use the entire width of the build table.by GITRDUN - General
Well i went with the Prusa air V2. I picked up a sheet of 1/4" acrylic and modified the .dxf model to acomidate 1/4" rather than 6mm sheet, then cut it out on a mill. So far it looks like all i need is to print 3 braces and the rest of my Prusa parts should be compatible. I like the looks of the clear acrylic. It looks like this could be made to be more rigid without much effort but by the looksby GITRDUN - General
Thats kinda what i thought by looking at it. It looks significantly less rigid in both X and Y axis but it looks much better than the standard Prusa. I have one sitting on my work bench in my office and id like something that looks a bit more professional rather than a toy i made out of all thread. I will check out the models before deciding.by GITRDUN - General
I want to strip one of my Prusa's and build a Prusa air. Where can i find dimensions or a model of the acrylic panels? I can CAD my own if i have to but it would save me a lot of time if it can be downloaded.by GITRDUN - General
Looks like they need to spend some more time doing their homework and experimenting to me. Who is going to give $150 for something that is drawn in a hand sketch on a piece of paper. Heck i got tons of hand sketched ideas, anybody want to fork over $150 for one? This is all something i would expect to hear from a kid who has no experience or knowledge of what it takes to run a business or to manuby GITRDUN - General
Depends on the qty of metal you will be buying. Online places like the one in the post above are fine if you only need a few feet of metal now and again. But if you need to buy like ten 12' bars a month or something find the closest metal supply company. Most of them will have a weekly or even bi-weekly delivery route that runs through your area. And prices will be much better. The big metal compby GITRDUN - General
My J-head hot end all of a sudden burned up the resistor and temp probe. I put in a new resistor and probe and noticed now my Ramps 1.4 board will not shut off the temperature either manually in Pronterface or when a print ends. It will heat up to the correct temp and prints fine but when the print is over the temp will very slowly rise continously to the point of overheating. When i send an M104by GITRDUN - General
I went way up on temp and have gotten a more consistent result as well. But my layers are not coming out even on the perimeters, it looks like it has major z wobble issues. Not sure whats up with that but the plastic is extruding consistently now.by GITRDUN - General
After my hand print didnt turn out perfect i ran some calibration prints and im having exactly the same problems with my white filament. Ive tried to hot and to cold, neither is working yet. I bought two 5lb rolls for $200 because they were out of black. Ill keep experimenting. Post back in if you get it solved.by GITRDUN - General
I just bought White PLA from Ultimaker and started using it yesterday. Previously i used strictly black PLA from Ultimaker. I have yet to see any difference with the white, but ive only made a couple prints. Right now i am printing the Okay Hand with the white PLA and so far so good.by GITRDUN - General
I come from a background in cnc machining and cnc maintenance and i had the same questions as you before jumping in. Heres what i quickly found out after having a Prusa. As stated above, using a bolt or even a ball screw on X and Y would be very very slow and the accuracy would not be any better than the belt setup. Amazingly to me the stepper motors and belt setup are very accurate, fast and repby GITRDUN - General
Is there a basic rule of thumb for minimum layer printing time? In Slic3r there is a setting for this and im sure most slicing softwares have something similar. Small layers say 5mm square are still kicking my butt.by GITRDUN - General
I have made a hobbed bolt using the tap method to "hob" the bolt, i have used a dremel and i have made one on a cnc mill with the 4th axis indexer. The tap method works but i wasnt satisfied with the depth of the teeth that it left. The dremel method works great and leaves nice deep teeth. Milling on a cnc such as described above is the best solution IMO, but not many people have access to this sby GITRDUN - General
Id suggest to buy one unassembled. You learn a lot just from putting it together. But to try and build one with no expereince is a tall task IMO.by GITRDUN - General
I have built a nozzle from the wiki design that works great. But i bored the id of the PEEK tube to 5/32 and installed a 5/32 x 3/32 PTFE liner for 1.75mm filament. My question is can i just put a bigger id PTFE liner in that will accept 3mm filament also or do you really need to have a seperate PEEK and nozzle for switching from 3mm to 1.75mm filaments? I would think the larger id wouldnt hurt aby GITRDUN - General
I print 1.75 PLA at 165 to 175C. Just start printing and cut the temp off, watch and see what the temp is when it starts to jam or not print smoothly, then go up about 15c or so from there. What the temp sensor says the temp is could be off a little.by GITRDUN - General
Let me start with i love slic3r. Now let me vent my frustrations. It seems to me every new release fixes a bug found in the previous release. And then a new release has to be made to fix the bugs in the new release and also creates other bugs. Then a bunch of new features are added and the whole mess starts over again. Why cant the creators just stop for a moment and fix all the bugs in any givby GITRDUN - Slic3r
I print my own timing gears with a .35 nozzle. Also print my own flexible Z motor couplers, they work better than the metal ones IMO.by GITRDUN - General
I did not read the entire thread so sorry if the problem has already been resolved. I had the same problem and mine was solved by simply connecting my power supply to a different wall outlet. It took me about 2 weeks to figure it out. Dont ask me why but if i plug it into a certain outlet it will freeze up mid print every time.by GITRDUN - General
Been running my new hot end for about a week now with no trouble, not even a single jam. I let it sit for 30 minutes at extruding temp and it still didnt jam. Prints are coming out much better than my makergear hot end, i dont know why that is but im guessing its either in the calibration or the MG one needs a good cleaning out. Only thing that has me a little puzzled is that i have to extrudeby GITRDUN - General
I have been printing now for about 3 months almost. I can print like a pro but the one problem that still eludes me is how to design a model so that the top few layers of a side hole do not curl up and mess up the printer. I have tried the tear drop method and this still doesnt seem to work well for me. No matter what you are faced with a situation where it will come to a point and thats where thby GITRDUN - General
I can attest to the low V vs high V motors. I bought some cheap 12v low amp motors, the only way to get enough torque out of them is to turn up the current pots and run them so hot the plastic mounts melt. I assumed that the voltage wasnt as much of an issue as the total watts, aparently i was wrong. High voltage and low amps can make the same amount of watts as low voltage and high amp. Im no elby GITRDUN - General
Had a chance to run two quick prints with the new nozzle and turned out good. Needs more tweaking to get it spot on but looks very impressive so far. I ran it up to temp with the SS cold end and the SS got wicked hot, so i switched to the identical PEEK cold end and it doesnt seem to even get above room temp. So the SS is out as a good heat reducer. Im stoked at how well this is working so far.by GITRDUN - General
Ok i have my hot end completed and put together. I made it similar to the j-heads. Im using a square 6061 aluminum block to hold the resistor and thermistor, screwed it onto the brass nozzle, which has a female thread in the other end to thread onto the cold end. I made two cold ends, one from PEEK and one from stainless steel that way i can test and compare the differences, i have 3 cooling finsby GITRDUN - General
5/16 and 8mm are basicaly interchangeable except for the smooth rods where you might or might not use bearings for your X and Y carriages. I have one of my prusas running with no bearings and one that is, the non bearing one runs smoother believe it or not. So you could buy 5/16 all thread and 5/16 smooth rods to keep costs down and then once its put together upgrade it as you wish. The frame forby GITRDUN - General
Heck i just built a Prusa with less than $50 worth of rod and all thread. I already had a prusa so i just printed my own parts. i bought some cheap motors on ebay for $50. And if you want to go cheap on the electronics buy a Sanguinololu board and motor drivers for around $150 or less. Rip the power supply from an old junk computer = free. And youre all set. Its not that expensive at all but if yby GITRDUN - General
My guess is you have backlash in your axis. Printing a circle is the best way i have found to check for backlash. When there is backlash one axis basicly stops for a split second when it reverses direction due to he slop in the belt or whatever and the other axis without excessive backlash keeps moving all the time. So you end up with a shift or flat spot in your circle. CNC machines have backlasby GITRDUN - General