Edit: Scratch that stuff below - my encoder is working fine, just not when it's mounted to the front panel. I wonder if Lisa'a encoder has the same issue? I think the encoder compression distance is somehow limited when mounted on the front panel, but I can't figure out why. Looks like my encoder isn't working, but there's a local electronics shop open for another hour and a half tonight andby Eric Young - Tantillus
Crossing my fingers for you It worked right away for my X-axis when it was having trouble.by Eric Young - Tantillus
Yeah I'm so stoked on the red! I'm not really a red kind of guy either, for the most part, but it looks so on this machine. Motors are switched, ty.by Eric Young - Tantillus
ernchesto Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Awesome. > > Hey Eric - did you mess with your extruder gear > jam? I just dismounted mine to test by hand, and > it doesn't seem too rough to turn - but I'm at > least getting some death-screech-knock out of it. > I'm curious if yours has started working through > your tweaks. Any news? Soundsby Eric Young - Tantillus
Well everything seems to be working pretty smoothly and I'm starting to feel tingly! Snapped a pic of it sitting on top of my desktop computer, love how it sits right on top so perfectly Rods and lead screw are all lubed up, filament has been loaded, motors seem to be functioning well and don't appear to be skipping steps or otherwise misbehaving. Even got rid of nearly all the ringing sound frby Eric Young - Tantillus
ernchesto Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Superlative customer service Seriously superplative. I had all new electronics show up at my doorstep less than 2 days after having problems and without even asking for them. Unbelievableby Eric Young - Tantillus
Got myself a new multimeter and it was the butt connector, thanks Sublime. Powered it up and the hotend seems to heat up nicely to 185. The temp readout gets to a little over 200 degrees at first and then drops back down to 185ish where it holds steady within a few degrees. Super sweet I started to play with the motor buttons and these were the results ( I have not yet used the +/- 100mm comby Eric Young - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The min temp cutoff is being triggered, I would > say your thermistor is not connected. Or maybe it > is plugged into the wrong thermistor location > (should be T0). > Thermistor connector looks to be correct (see attached). Are the butt connectors up at the hotend the next thing to check? > If anythinby Eric Young - Tantillus
My pleasure. I love this forum too - this whole open source thing is new to me and it just blows my mind more and more each day.by Eric Young - Tantillus
Yeah I've gotten into quite the night owl phase over the last month - screenshot is attached this time. Do I need a multimeter to check the 15v to RAMPS? I can't find mine, but will go buy a new one if I need to since I should really have one around anyways.by Eric Young - Tantillus
Here you goby Eric Young - Tantillus
TCase Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The .dxf files for the laser cut case parts do not > have hole centres, I assume that Blender creates > circles as a continuous curve rather than as a > centre point and radius. For people building a > Tantillus by other means, centre locations would > be really handy. > > T Case I can export DXF'sby Eric Young - Tantillus
Thanks Sublime, I did what you suggested and after unplugging and re-plugging everything in one at a time it's working fine now Not sure what the problem was, but it's gone. I've now plugged in both USB and 12V and connected to Pronterface. When I try to set the temperature of the hotend, Pronterface gives a message that it is setting the temp, but the hotend does not change temperature at allby Eric Young - Tantillus
Thanks for the input guys. I got it all put together, plugged in the USB and nothing turned on. No LED's were on, the computer wouldn't recognize it - just nothing at all. I pulled the RAMPS board off the Arduino, plugged the Arduino all by itself and it seems perfectly fine and connects to Pronterface. Any ideas about what might be going on here?by Eric Young - Tantillus
Got the electronics all hooked up again and figured this time I'd post some pictures of all the connectors before plugging in to wall power. Sublime - would you mind confirming that my connector locations/orientation look good? Orientation of the Thermistor connector does not matter, correct? Also, when I installed the heatsinks on the Pololu's it looked as though the bottoms of the heat sinksby Eric Young - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I see that it automatically opens the Marlin.pde > when it is in your sketchbook but when manually > opening it you get the choice of three files. I > will add the Marlin.pde part to the instructions. Okay > > It does say to choice the 2560. Although this is > not the only choice of Arduino mega you cby Eric Young - Tantillus
I think the firmware instructions could use some clarity too come to think of it. As Pokey described it, the instructions should probably say to open the marlin.pde file in the Arduino IDE, choose the 2560 in board type, click the verify(compile) button, then once done compiling choose the COM port (which is displayed in the device manager on Windows, not sure for mac/linux) and then hit the uploby Eric Young - Tantillus
Ahh, yeah I am using his models. Looks like it would also hit the X-motor and probably the Y-motor too depending on the model accuracy. I think I know how to re-do it and will give it another shot soon.by Eric Young - Tantillus
Yeah it doesn't need that fillet on the edge, I'm so used to designing for injection molding and will need to get used to this printer mindset now Looks like there is still 3mm clearance for the Z-arms if that backside wall thickness is 2mm- see attached.by Eric Young - Tantillus
Keeping my XY square has been the most difficult mechanical task for me. It seems to want to move out of square by a little more than 1mm front to back and a little less than 1mm left to right. I think I need to play around some more and get a better feel for tensioning the cables more evenly, but if you have any other tricks up your sleeve that aren't on the build guide I'd love to hear them.by Eric Young - Tantillus
Attached is what I was thinking.by Eric Young - Tantillus
That would take care of it - probably something with an angle on the surface that touches the top back edge of the glass, so that it provides a downward force when the glass is pushed back against it. You could probably use the existing back screws to constrain the lip-piece too. I'll throw together a rough model of what I'm thinking because it's hard to describe in words. Seems like I'm the onby Eric Young - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think the lifting is because you have the > washers under the head of the bolts and they > should be under the acrylic. That's funny because I did have the washers under the bolt heads at first, but figured that one out and so they were in the correct location when the lifting occurred. It's not very pronounced,by Eric Young - Tantillus
One little assembly tip I thought worth mentioning: For the Z-axis parts that require nuts/bolts through the back panel, I've been gluing the nuts into their 'homes' in the plastic parts, making it a little easier to install/uninstall since you don't have to hold the nuts this way. A pic of one of the parts is attached to show what I mean. Just a couple drops of the glue seems to work nicely. Eby Eric Young - Tantillus
I think you're right about the home being the back right and if it can move 100mm in X or Y while staying over the glass then you're okay. Looking at my Tantillus, the extruder tip also moves past the glass by about 2mm when positioned all the way to the left. Should have checked that before opening my mouth in the first place. This extruder/glass overshoot brings up an interesting point becausby Eric Young - Tantillus
>Also, my threads are exactly 7mm, as recommended, but I can't quite make it fit through the hole in the acrylic and engage with the nut. I think it's >due to this little metal nib, circled below. Sublime removed that nib on the encoder he sent to me. I still ended up using a 1/2 inch drill bit to countersink the front of the encoder hole and get more thread engagement because I stripped tby Eric Young - Tantillus
Love your crappy photos Yonder, your machine is looking great. Nice documentation on your build too, it's been quite helpful for me. I believe that if the carriage is moved all the way to into each corner and the extruder outlet is above the glass the entire time then you still have the entire build area. Assuming your carriage is able to move the entire 100mm distance in both X and Y that is.by Eric Young - Tantillus
I was having an issue with the back of the glass build plate not pressing flat against the acrylic when the bulldog clips were attached, so I decided to to do a little mod and post it to get input. Attached are a few images of the mod - just glued a thin sheet of plastic to the bottom of the glass so that I could apply the bulldog clips from the sides and at a diagonal orientation as shown in thby Eric Young - Tantillus
Looking pretty nice there Pokey, I dig the color scheme I believe a snug fit on both the long and short edges of the Z-arm holes is what you want. Sublime will probably give the correct answer to this - I'd hold off on the filing till he does. Not sure if there's a difference with the printed case, but my cable holes are each about 12mm from the inside surface of my corner connectors(no cornerby Eric Young - Tantillus
Well the Arduino connects just fine with Pronterface. Can't find the multimeter for the life of me, but once located I'll check resistances between output pins, ground and 12V. Would it be worth hooking everything back up (except the burnt driver and complimentary motor cable) with only the USB cable to see what happens? Everything was doing fine before when only the USB was attached, so I'm thby Eric Young - Tantillus