You don't really need a high-powered fan to cool the insulator. I have been told that the insulator heats up mainly from convection as the warm air rises form the tip. A small fan to break up this flow of hot air is all that is necessary. I run a small 25mm fan mounted hanging from the side of the X carriage - it just points horizontally across the bottom of the X carriage. The point is that yby jbernardis - Printing
I guess that would be a valid reasonby jbernardis - General
Quotetjb1 ... but it doesn't play nice with IE ... It's not difficult to download chrome or firefox. Even if it's just for evaluation, it might be helpful to those of us who don't have the invitation.by jbernardis - General
You might be able to do an abbreviated version of this.by jbernardis - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I doubt very much that you'd be able to get slic3r to take mm/m. Just take your mm/m value and divide by 60 to get mm/sby jbernardis - Slic3r
QuoteKingRahl Quotepushthatbolder ...I have tried importing using imperial and it makes the object 2.5 times bigger... This is because there are 2.54 cm in 1 inch. The file was exported using a 1/1 scale. Except that he was pointing out the difference between millimeters and inches, so the factor should have been 25.4, not 2.5. I admit that when trying to grasp the size of something in my headby jbernardis - General
Thanks nophead. Although you shot holes in my thought that the firmware would enforce the speed limit, you have validated my thought that I need to slow things down (and/or raise hot end temperature) until the feed rate is in concert with the flow rate. My focus was on slowing down the extrusion; of course the X and Y axis movement would also need to slow down.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Remove all the stepper drivers and power up. If it doesn't power up, you know you damaged the RAMPs itself. If it comes up successfully, power down and add one stepper driver and power up again Add one at a time until you see the failure. Do NOT connect or disconnect either a driver or a motor while power is on as this will most likely kill the driver. Have you tried the ardiuno itself witby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
I am using a wade's geared extruder, so there is a reduction, and I have never had a problem with the 0.5mm nozzle. With a 0.35mm nozzle, I get slipping and grinding. I just assumed that I need to slow things down. The F parameter is a representation of the filament going into the extruder. From what you are saying, I guess the slicer is supposed to know that it should slow things down becausby jbernardis - Reprappers
Quotedougal1957 No it isn't your extrusion speed (steps/mm) will stay the same ... I realize the steps/mm will remain the same. That's not the extrusion speed. The F parameter on the G1 statements gives the number of mm to extrude. All the steps per mm does is to convert this into steps. I'm thinking that the number that ends up on the G1 statements should be smaller because the orifice onby jbernardis - Reprappers
If you are using the referenced test software, you do not need or use any host. Just upload the test software with the arduino IDE. It causes the stepper motors to move back and forth - so make sure you start with everything at about the center of the axis. If you want to test functionality with repetier or pronterface or whatever host you end up using, just flash on the actual firmware you wiby jbernardis - General
I run with a 0.5mm nozzle, and am in the process of building a new printer for which I have already purchased 2 0.35 mm orifice J-heads. Recently my 0.5mm J head jammed, so I temporarily switched over to the 0.35mm and I had nothing but problems with it. I assumed that all I had to change was the orifice size within slic3r and everything would work OK, but in retrospect, maybe that was a bad aby jbernardis - Reprappers
Quotelumen Don't forget to uncheck the "Retract only when crossing borders" box as was noted in another thread. Yes. This is especially an issue on the first layer. Even though you are on the outside of the final object, slicer does not consider it is crossing perimeters. As you move from one hole to another on your objects interior, slic3r will extrude filament. Since this goes down beforeby jbernardis - Slic3r
You mention pololu, so I'm surprised you didn't find them there. They may not have the exact pre-made cables you are looking for, but they have the connectors in many different pin configurations sold in small quantities, and they have pre-crimped wires in M/M, F/F and M/F configurations in various lengths and colors. Pololu is my go-to place for this. You could probably do better pricewise -by jbernardis - General
Slic3r will retract on travel except for travel that is shorter than what you specify in its configuration. But you could probably specify 0 and it will retract for ALL travel moves.by jbernardis - Slic3r
You can also buy pre-crimped wires from pololu in a variety of colors and lengths and in M/M, F/F and M/F configurations. This is what I do and I just assemble the cable configurations I need.by jbernardis - General
What firmware are you running and what value are you interested in. The firmware itself is compiled binary code. You CAN retrieve it from the Arduino, but it's totally unreadable and unusable. The only purpose for doing this is perhaps to back it up or to copy it onto a different machine.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Wiring red to power and black to ground does not make sense in the context of a stepper motor. You one describe 2 wires, but there are 4. What did you do with the other 2 wires? Different manufacturers use different colors for the wires. All you need to determine is how the wires pair, and then connect one pair to 1A/1B and the other pair to 2A/2B on the pololu. And it's quite common to getby jbernardis - Reprappers
Why couldn't you just union a cylinder and a couple of spheres of the same radius at each end. For the interior, you could just make another of the same shape but with a smaller diameter, and subtract it from the first.by jbernardis - OpenSCAD
Are you sure you shouldn't be using 1.75mm filamentby jbernardis - Printing
You can make a rounded cube by putting a hull around 8 spheres hull () for (i=[-1, 1], j=[-1, 1], k=[-1, 1]) translate() sphere(r=5): And then subtract that from your larger object.by Be careful with your value for $fn - this will be an expensive object to render if you use too high resolution.by jbernardis - OpenSCAD
draw a cylinder of the desired radius and height at each vertex location, and put a hull around the entire thing. You might need to use a little trig/geometry to move the cylinders towards the interior of the triangle by the radius if you want the cylinders to be totally within the triangle; otherwise each cylinder, and thus the hull, will overhang the triangle by the amount of the radius.by jbernardis - OpenSCAD
I believe people in the past have had this issue when their max Z speed is set too high. The movement of these motors is time-dependent, and if your motors aren't going as fast at the firmware thinks they can, these types of errors can accumulate as the height grows. You might want to check your value in the firmware.by jbernardis - Printing
Actually, I'm not so sure that you have a viable connection between the Arduino and the Mac. Yes the LED's are a good sign, but the message "timeout communicating with programmer" is not. It looks like the arduino is powering up, but there is no way to communicate with it. If you cannot even upload one of the arduino IDE sample programs, then my diagnosis would be that the arduino is beyond reby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Interesting points of view. From my perspective, there is absolutely nothing unreliable about a computer - after all, the arduino is a computer. If there is anything that I could deem as unreliable, it would be the USB connection. For me, the pc interface gives me the ability to watch the print progress. It also give me vastly improved manual control. Also, the ability to see a grby jbernardis - Reprappers
Sorry about that. I just saw the mk3 designation. Not the number of pads. You ought to be able to do some detective work. The mk3 has two heating elements, so an ohm meter should be able to identify which pads are for those. What the other two pads are for I could only guess that they have something to do with the led indicator. Once you know the heating pads (there will be a small noby jbernardis - Printing
A little googling will get you your answer. The wiki right here discusses the wiring.by jbernardis - Printing
The mk3 is a dual heated bed. There are two separate heating elements. I've not used one myself, but it's discussed here. I think you need to make an additional connection.by jbernardis - Printing
Your z steps per millimeter value is wrong. Use one of the reprap calculators to help you determine what it should be. Make sure you know what level of microstepping you are using.by jbernardis - Printing
I don't know where they are on Windows 98, but you should just be able to save them to a thumb drive from within slic3r.by jbernardis - Slic3r